Posts
48
Joined
12/21/2014
Location
Hill Afb, UT
US
Edited Date/Time
7/10/2015 11:27am
Dearest users of Vital MX forums, I have some questions about jetting a pwk for the later style case reed CR's.
So it turns out my old man has a spare 39mm keihin he has laying around that's in good shape that he's going to let me borrow for awhile while I'm in town visiting next weekend. Currently I have the garbage mikuni TMX from the factory and as you all know jetting those is about as simple as Chinese math. I'm trying to get a good baseline for my jetting to start playing with, here are all the factors I can think of that would be of any use to anybody that might be able to help me. Comment if you need any other specs besides what I've come up with.
BIKE SETTINGS
•2002 cr 250
•boyesen Rad Valve
•pro circuit works pipe and 304 silencer
•pro circuit exhaust flange
•UNI filter
•05+ base gasket
•wiseco pro lite piston W/new cylinder
•stock porting & head/dome
•13/48 gearing
•sea level from 60-80* F (Oregon dunes)
•100 octane Sunoco fuel
•32:1 mixed with Castor 927
KEIHIN SPECS
•pwk 39mm (72RA4 SDJ)
•#6 slide
•DEJ needle (I think)
•long body carb
Currently it has a 150 main and 55 pilot, the main sounds a little on the lean side? It will be ridden on sand and since I'll be twisting on it I don't want to run it lean and burn down my brand new powerplant. But then again mikuni and keihin jet numbers are leaps and bounds different. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
So it turns out my old man has a spare 39mm keihin he has laying around that's in good shape that he's going to let me borrow for awhile while I'm in town visiting next weekend. Currently I have the garbage mikuni TMX from the factory and as you all know jetting those is about as simple as Chinese math. I'm trying to get a good baseline for my jetting to start playing with, here are all the factors I can think of that would be of any use to anybody that might be able to help me. Comment if you need any other specs besides what I've come up with.
BIKE SETTINGS
•2002 cr 250
•boyesen Rad Valve
•pro circuit works pipe and 304 silencer
•pro circuit exhaust flange
•UNI filter
•05+ base gasket
•wiseco pro lite piston W/new cylinder
•stock porting & head/dome
•13/48 gearing
•sea level from 60-80* F (Oregon dunes)
•100 octane Sunoco fuel
•32:1 mixed with Castor 927
KEIHIN SPECS
•pwk 39mm (72RA4 SDJ)
•#6 slide
•DEJ needle (I think)
•long body carb
Currently it has a 150 main and 55 pilot, the main sounds a little on the lean side? It will be ridden on sand and since I'll be twisting on it I don't want to run it lean and burn down my brand new powerplant. But then again mikuni and keihin jet numbers are leaps and bounds different. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!
I'll give you a couple of jetting combo's that will get you close , but that #6 slide is going to be a little rich. A #7 or #8 slide would be a much better option.
For mx I would use a Yamaha /KTM duel taper N3EJ in the #3 slot,with a 45 pilot, and a 178 main jet. I would start off with the air screw 2 turns out. This combo with the #6 slide will give you good torque on the bottom end, with nice hit into the mid range and good topend.
If you are looking for a smoother type of power through out. I would start out with a Suzuki triple taper NEDW needle in the #3 slot, with a 42 pilot. You may be able to get away a 40 pilot due to the slide, but let the air screw determine that. More that 2.5 turns out on the air screw and you will need the smaller pilot. I would also start out with a 172 main jet. This setup will a little less torque on the bottom end than the N3EJ, but a smoother transition into the mid and top, but still has decent over rev.
These combos are just to get you in the ball park, but should be pretty close.
As stated in your first scenario for jetting (178 main, 45 pilot) is that possible to use while using the DEJ, if in fact it is a DEJ, and #6 slide? Or would it change those sizes a lot between the N3EJ needle? I'm not opposed to swapping needles, I'm just not quite interested in swapping the slide just yet since it will only be ran for a couple weeks while I'm back in Oregon at sea level. Unfortunately I have a whole other set of jetting settings when I get back to Salt Lake City at 4500 ft. Lol
In all reality I'm not going for factory bike jetting status with a perfect chalky look in the silencer, but I do want to clean it up and get some better power out of it. It can be a little darker, I just don't want it to be wet and puking all over itself. Unfortunately since I do 95% of my riding in utah, it's hard to pinpoint on a guaranteed setting since the elevation changes so much out here. But getting it close at sea level with what is in it right now (minus a possible needle change and different jets) is what I'm trying to get at. Also, if you could elaborate on the different slide numbers and why a 6 would run richer than say, a 7 or 8? I know it has to do with the cut out of the bottom of the slide, but past that I don't know much else. Once again, thanks for all the info!
The Shop
The difference between the slides, 6 & 7, is that a #7 slide is 1mm taller & wider through the arch on the intake side of the slide than the #6. The #8 is another 1mm larger than the #7 etc.. The slide has an affect on the jetting of the carb up to about 40% of the throttle range.
I have worked with people on jetting these Hondas at elevation, The jetting doesn't that radically. At 4500' you are going to go down about 2 sizes on the main, the air screw may need to be adjusted out leaner. With the needle being the same at sea level and elevation. It may need to be moved 1 clip position leaner. At really high elevation you would actually need the richer slide.
I think you be suprised at how clean the bike will run when it's jetted correctly when compared to the Mikuni TMX carb. We are not talking about a huge investment here either. The largest being the slide, but that can be cut to a #7 for about $20. The needle jets are pretty cheap.
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/yamaha/YP-4SR-14916-EJ-00.html
http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/suzuki/SP-13383-37FL0.html
https://www.jdjetting.com/xcart/product.php?productid=100&cat=17&page=1
http://rb-designs.com/rb_designs_llc_013.htm
http://www.suzukipartshouse.com/oemparts/p/honda/16202-ml3-681/needle-s…
So you think with the #6 slide, N3EJ needle and 175-178 main should run pretty solid in comparison to the Mikuni?
If anyone needs a #4 slide for these carbs, I have one for sale. It can easily be cut leaner with a file
The #6 slide, N3EJ, 45 pilot and 178 main to start with will be a solid combo. It will just run a little rougher down low, and have a little more hit, than if you were using a #7 slide. Start off with the 178 main you may very well be able to use the 175, but I would rather you start off a touch rich on the main and work your way down if need be.
http://www.carbparts.com/index.html
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