Help appreciated on polishing engine cases

mxBryan
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mxBryan
Edited Date/Time 10/7/2015 2:40pm
Hello.

I want to polish my engine cases for my project http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Race-Shop,42/2000-CR250-Ricky-Carmichael-…
Not a "mirror" polished finish, but more like a scotchbrite finish.
Did some research on this forum for some tips and how to's, and i came up using green scotchbrite and WD40 as a lubricant !
So before sending my engine to the shop for disassembly to make work a little better on the cases, i tried polishing a small spot on the left case half and came up with the finish i was hoping for.


When i finished this spot, i clean and degrease it, but then comes the problem, when i touch the spot with a clean dry finger, it leaves a stain on it. It comes right off after cleaning, but as soon as you touch it again it's back.
I used this polish method also on my chassis and didn't had the problem then.
Am i doing something wrong here ? I mean how will i explain my mechanic not to touch my cases when assembling my engine lol Laughing

In other topics i read people use SOS pads as finish, maybe this is the problem ???
I appreciate any help or other methods.

Thanks,
Bryan
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mxtech1
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mxtech1 10/2/2015 1:43pm
10/2/2015 1:43pm
Usually as a last step, I use a buffing wheel to finish the material. I have a bench top grinder with buffing wheels and then Dremmel attachments for the tight spots.

That's the only problem with polished aluminum is that it's raw metal. It will be susceptible to oil, grease, dirt etc.
Charper732
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Charper732 10/2/2015 4:35pm
10/2/2015 4:35pm Edited Date/Time 10/2/2015 4:36pm
Green scotch bright is pretty ruff. You could start with that, but finish with the Red scotch bright, its the "very fine" grit. It will retain less dirt and oils on the metal as the finish is much smoother..

I clean everything with red scotch brite pads
CrGuy2T
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CrGuy2T 10/2/2015 5:29pm
10/2/2015 5:29pm
Fine wire wheel on the end of a drill and wd 40. Lots of patience. The parts you can get use steel who'll. Then go over it with green scotch Brits to get the brushed alluminum.



rocketsocks26 10/2/2015 6:57pm
10/2/2015 6:57pm
Im curious aswell, look at the motors jeskemxcustoms builds or motowhips, they also offer that as a service, definitely gives the bike that "factorty" look

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pete24
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pete24 10/2/2015 9:33pm
10/2/2015 9:33pm
strip the cases compltely and send them to a machine shop and have them tumbled they will look the best like that
mb
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mb 10/2/2015 10:00pm
10/2/2015 10:00pm
You need to look into a sealant of some type. Your best option might be anodizing.
imoto34
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imoto34 10/3/2015 11:56am
10/3/2015 11:56am
I spray can my engines with walmart paint
chuckdavies
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chuckdavies 10/6/2015 2:44am
10/6/2015 2:44am
Strip everything entirely and have everything vapour blasted. Will be the finish you're looking for with minimal effort Smile
mxBryan
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mxBryan 10/6/2015 4:13am
10/6/2015 4:13am
chuckdavies wrote:
Strip everything entirely and have everything vapour blasted. Will be the finish you're looking for with minimal effort Smile
Last option was vapour blast, and decided to go with that ! Finish looks almost the same, only minus is you don't have the brushed look, but that's ok.
I think the finish of vapour blast will give a 100% perfect finish.
Brought my engine to the shop yesterday for stripping and next week my cases will be shipped to Holland for vapour blast.
mb
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mb 10/6/2015 6:55am
10/6/2015 6:55am
chuckdavies wrote:
Don't spray or anodise any of it... ^
How is he going to protect the raw aluminum from contamination (what his question was)?
mxBryan
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mxBryan 10/6/2015 8:09am
10/6/2015 8:09am
chuckdavies wrote:
Don't spray or anodise any of it... ^
mb wrote:
How is he going to protect the raw aluminum from contamination (what his question was)?
I've read an article that says the metal is more protected for oxidation and stains after vapour blast.
After some research i saw that alot of people use this method for bike restaurations.
Here is the Quote:
"The process uses water, micro beads, mild cleaning agents, and air. These components are mixed into a slurry and propelled at high speed toward the surface of a metal part, such as aluminum, brass, as well as mild steel. It seals the surface, resulting in cosmetic enhancement and imparts a micro finish that helps it resist further staining and oxidation."
rocketsocks26 10/6/2015 4:55pm
10/6/2015 4:55pm
chuckdavies wrote:
Don't spray or anodise any of it... ^
mb wrote:
How is he going to protect the raw aluminum from contamination (what his question was)?
mxBryan wrote:
I've read an article that says the metal is more protected for oxidation and stains after vapour blast. After some research i saw that alot of...
I've read an article that says the metal is more protected for oxidation and stains after vapour blast.
After some research i saw that alot of people use this method for bike restaurations.
Here is the Quote:
"The process uses water, micro beads, mild cleaning agents, and air. These components are mixed into a slurry and propelled at high speed toward the surface of a metal part, such as aluminum, brass, as well as mild steel. It seals the surface, resulting in cosmetic enhancement and imparts a micro finish that helps it resist further staining and oxidation."
How do u vapor blast?
slackinoff
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slackinoff 10/7/2015 2:40pm
10/7/2015 2:40pm
rocketsocks26 wrote:
How do u vapor blast?
Well you don't....you send your parts off. The equipment is thousands of doll hairs.

I suggest the place I sent my cases to http://www.vaporblastsolutions.com/

Dan did a great job. The cost plus return shipping was $70. Mind you these are bare cases.... and he also helped me out big time and pulled a couple of blind hole bearings for free. Dan is a super nice guy.

Here are my cases.





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