Start_new_topic

Participating Members

Fork seal replacement

queen of spodes Posts: 499 Joined: 11/25/2007 Location: Atlanta, GA	10/19/2009 6:53 PM queen of spodes wrote: I changed fork seals on one of my old XRs years ago and it was pretty easy to do. My 02 RM125 needs its seals changed now -- other than an air wrench are there other special tools I would need to do this myself? queen of spodes wrote: I changed fork seals on one of my old XRs years ago and it was pretty easy to do. My 02 RM125 needs its seals changed now -- other than an air wrench are there other special tools I would need to do this myself? Quote Last Post Only I changed fork seals on one of my old XRs years ago and it was pretty easy to do. My 02 RM125 needs its seals changed now -- other than an air wrench are there other special tools I would need to do this myself?
lumpy790 Posts: 942 Joined: 9/18/2007 Location: York, SC	10/20/2009 7:27 AM lumpy790 wrote: RTFM? lumpy790 wrote: RTFM? Quote Last Post Only RTFM? www.MotoHose.com
JG2 Posts: 38 Joined: 2/01/2009 Location: Edmonton, AB CAN	10/20/2009 2:24 PM JG2 wrote: A Fork Cap wrench, seal driver & seal bullet are nice to have but you can use a plastic baggie instead of the seal bullet & you can find out how to make a seal driver out of PVC pipe if you Google it (but I didn't want to screw around and bought the seal driver). If 02 Suzuki's have Showa forks like my Honda? and you want to change the damper oil you will need a 32mm or 1 1/4" socket to remove the damper (Why Motion Pro didn't punch a cutout of the damper cap AND a square hole to fit a 3/8" drive torque wrench into the fork cap wrench is beyond me - maybe I should be working there). (Ummm, just thinking about it I now know why - you need 2 wrenches to loosen it, I guess.) You may want to put the same oil back in as fork oil apparently has no standard viscosity ratings & for example 5W Honda is drastically different than 5W Bel-Ray fork oil. I know this firsthand & I couldn't believe the difference. Look up Peter Verdone designs on Google or Wikipedia - he's got an awesome viscosity chart there somewhere. Hope this helps! JG. JG2 wrote: A Fork Cap wrench, seal driver & seal bullet are nice to have but you can use a plastic baggie instead of the seal bullet & you can find out how to make a seal driver out of PVC pipe if you Google it (but I didn't want to screw around and bought the seal driver). If 02 Suzuki's have Showa forks like my Honda? and you want to change the damper oil you will need a 32mm or 1 1/4" socket to remove the damper (Why Motion Pro didn't punch a cutout of the damper cap AND a square hole to fit a 3/8" drive torque wrench into the fork cap wrench is beyond me - maybe I should be working there). (Ummm, just thinking about it I now know why - you need 2 wrenches to loosen it, I guess.) You may want to put the same oil back in as fork oil apparently has no standard viscosity ratings & for example 5W Honda is drastically different than 5W Bel-Ray fork oil. I know this firsthand & I couldn't believe the difference. Look up Peter Verdone designs on Google or Wikipedia - he's got an awesome viscosity chart there somewhere. Hope this helps! JG. Quote Last Post Only A Fork Cap wrench, seal driver & seal bullet are nice to have but you can use a plastic baggie instead of the seal bullet & you can find out how to make a seal driver out of PVC pipe if you Google it (but I didn't want to screw around and bought the seal driver). If 02 Suzuki's have Showa forks like my Honda? and you want to change the damper oil you will need a 32mm or 1 1/4" socket to remove the damper (Why Motion Pro didn't punch a cutout of the damper cap AND a square hole to fit a 3/8" drive torque wrench into the fork cap wrench is beyond me - maybe I should be working there). (Ummm, just thinking about it I now know why - you need 2 wrenches to loosen it, I guess.) You may want to put the same oil back in as fork oil apparently has no standard viscosity ratings & for example 5W Honda is drastically different than 5W Bel-Ray fork oil. I know this firsthand & I couldn't believe the difference. Look up Peter Verdone designs on Google or Wikipedia - he's got an awesome viscosity chart there somewhere. Hope this helps! JG.
captmoto Posts: 18 Joined: 4/22/2009 Location: RANCHO CUCAMONGA, CA	10/21/2009 5:53 PM queen of spodes wrote: I changed fork seals on one of my old XRs years ago and it was pretty easy to do. My 02 RM125 needs its seals changed now -- other than an air wrench are there other special tools I would need to do this myself? queen of spodes wrote: I changed fork seals on one of my old XRs years ago and it was pretty easy to do. My 02 RM125 needs its seals changed now -- other than an air wrench are there other special tools I would need to do this myself? captmoto wrote: DON'T, DON'T, DON'T use an air wrench to service your forks. If you spin the dampening rod nut you will have to spend some bucks to replace it. You should be able to find vids on line that will show you what you have to do to replace the seals. Buy the right tools if you want to do it yourself. Don't forget to replace the bushings too. Quote Last Post Only captmoto wrote: DON'T, DON'T, DON'T use an air wrench to service your forks. If you spin the dampening rod nut you will have to spend some bucks to replace it. You should be able to find vids on line that will show you what you have to do to replace the seals. Buy the right tools if you want to do it yourself. Don't forget to replace the bushings too. Quote Last Post Only DON'T, DON'T, DON'T use an air wrench to service your forks. If you spin the dampening rod nut you will have to spend some bucks to replace it. You should be able to find vids on line that will show you what you have to do to replace the seals. Buy the right tools if you want to do it yourself. Don't forget to replace the bushings too.
queen of spodes Posts: 499 Joined: 11/25/2007 Location: Atlanta, GA	10/22/2009 8:08 PM queen of spodes wrote: I've ordered 47mm seal driver, bullet, cap wrench, and a manual. Won't use my air tools (thanks for that tip!) While I'm waiting on my manual to arrive, does anyone know what weight oil I need to buy? I'd like to order some now so I can have everything fixed in time to ride next weekend. queen of spodes wrote: I've ordered 47mm seal driver, bullet, cap wrench, and a manual. Won't use my air tools (thanks for that tip!) While I'm waiting on my manual to arrive, does anyone know what weight oil I need to buy? I'd like to order some now so I can have everything fixed in time to ride next weekend. Quote Last Post Only I've ordered 47mm seal driver, bullet, cap wrench, and a manual. Won't use my air tools (thanks for that tip!) While I'm waiting on my manual to arrive, does anyone know what weight oil I need to buy? I'd like to order some now so I can have everything fixed in time to ride next weekend.
motofab36 Posts: 400 Joined: 4/01/2008 Location: COWDEN, IL	10/23/2009 11:03 AM motofab36 wrote: 5wt Maxima motofab36 wrote: 5wt Maxima Quote Last Post Only 5wt Maxima
JG2 Posts: 38 Joined: 2/01/2009 Location: Edmonton, AB CAN	10/25/2009 12:02 PM JG2 wrote: If you want something similar to what was in there before I would look at Honda HP 5W - I tried Bel-Ray 5W fork oil & the forks were very harsh. Further investigation found that there is no real "standard" for suspension fluid like there is for motor oil & the Bel Ray was actually 2x as thick as the stock fluid. I put the 5W Honda stuff in both chambers and am very happy with my forks now. I didn't look to see what the relative viscocity of Maxima 5W fork oil is but you could look it up in the chart. (see link below) http://www.pvdwiki.com/...tle=Suspension_Fluid JG2 wrote: If you want something similar to what was in there before I would look at Honda HP 5W - I tried Bel-Ray 5W fork oil & the forks were very harsh. Further investigation found that there is no real "standard" for suspension fluid like there is for motor oil & the Bel Ray was actually 2x as thick as the stock fluid. I put the 5W Honda stuff in both chambers and am very happy with my forks now. I didn't look to see what the relative viscocity of Maxima 5W fork oil is but you could look it up in the chart. (see link below) http://www.pvdwiki.com/...tle=Suspension_Fluid Quote Last Post Only If you want something similar to what was in there before I would look at Honda HP 5W - I tried Bel-Ray 5W fork oil & the forks were very harsh. Further investigation found that there is no real "standard" for suspension fluid like there is for motor oil & the Bel Ray was actually 2x as thick as the stock fluid. I put the 5W Honda stuff in both chambers and am very happy with my forks now. I didn't look to see what the relative viscocity of Maxima 5W fork oil is but you could look it up in the chart. (see link below) http://www.pvdwiki.com/...tle=Suspension_Fluid
Camp332 Posts: 2266 Joined: 8/16/2006 Location: Zoo Jersey, Zoo Jersey	10/26/2009 5:04 PM motofab36 wrote: 5wt Maxima motofab36 wrote: 5wt Maxima Camp332 wrote: Yup! I used that 2 weeks ago, and it worked perfectly. Granted I called my buddy at RG3 who re-valved my stuff to find out what weight oil he used, and he stressed to me: "5wt Maxima High Performance Fork Fluid".. Quote Last Post Only Camp332 wrote: Yup! I used that 2 weeks ago, and it worked perfectly. Granted I called my buddy at RG3 who re-valved my stuff to find out what weight oil he used, and he stressed to me: "5wt Maxima High Performance Fork Fluid".. Quote Last Post Only Yup! I used that 2 weeks ago, and it worked perfectly. Granted I called my buddy at RG3 who re-valved my stuff to find out what weight oil he used, and he stressed to me: "5wt Maxima High Performance Fork Fluid"..
queen of spodes Posts: 499 Joined: 11/25/2007 Location: Atlanta, GA	10/31/2009 3:46 PM queen of spodes wrote: The factory manual explains everything very clearly, except for how to get the dust seals out of the legs without scratching the surface. What tool should I use to pry them out with, and where on the seal do I work from? here? (1) or here? (2) queen of spodes wrote: The factory manual explains everything very clearly, except for how to get the dust seals out of the legs without scratching the surface. What tool should I use to pry them out with, and where on the seal do I work from? here? (1) or here? (2) Quote Last Post Only The factory manual explains everything very clearly, except for how to get the dust seals out of the legs without scratching the surface. What tool should I use to pry them out with, and where on the seal do I work from? here? (1) or here? (2)
williamsmotowerx Posts: 932 Joined: 4/01/2008 Location: SAUKVILLE, WI	10/31/2009 4:39 PM williamsmotowerx wrote: #2 williamsmotowerx wrote: #2 Quote Last Post Only #2
queen of spodes Posts: 499 Joined: 11/25/2007 Location: Atlanta, GA	11/1/2009 12:42 PM Edited Date/Time: 11/1/2009 12:44 PM queen of spodes wrote: I'm reassembling the fork now - having taken out the damper assembly to drain the oil. The damper assembly goes back into the inner rod, but only a few mm. I'm guessing the air is preventing it from pushing down further? I've re-read my manual a few times and it doesn't explain what to do here other than "gently put the damper back into the inner rod". Help greatly appreciated as always. queen of spodes wrote: I'm reassembling the fork now - having taken out the damper assembly to drain the oil. The damper assembly goes back into the inner rod, but only a few mm. I'm guessing the air is preventing it from pushing down further? I've re-read my manual a few times and it doesn't explain what to do here other than "gently put the damper back into the inner rod". Help greatly appreciated as always. Quote Last Post Only I'm reassembling the fork now - having taken out the damper assembly to drain the oil. The damper assembly goes back into the inner rod, but only a few mm. I'm guessing the air is preventing it from pushing down further? I've re-read my manual a few times and it doesn't explain what to do here other than "gently put the damper back into the inner rod". Help greatly appreciated as always.
Void Main Posts: 9915 Joined: 3/19/2008 Location: ,	11/1/2009 3:21 PM Void Main wrote: Sounds like you need a BMFH. Those are great tools to have around. Void Main wrote: Sounds like you need a BMFH. Those are great tools to have around. Quote Last Post Only Sounds like you need a BMFH. Those are great tools to have around. 2-stroke vs 4-stroke preference poll www.freelenny.com
queen of spodes Posts: 499 Joined: 11/25/2007 Location: Atlanta, GA	11/1/2009 3:44 PM queen of spodes wrote: Got it.. the o-ring on the damper catching on the inside of the inner rod.. it finally slid down when more force was applied. One leg down one to go! queen of spodes wrote: Got it.. the o-ring on the damper catching on the inside of the inner rod.. it finally slid down when more force was applied. One leg down one to go! Quote Last Post Only Got it.. the o-ring on the damper catching on the inside of the inner rod.. it finally slid down when more force was applied. One leg down one to go!
williamsmotowerx Posts: 932 Joined: 4/01/2008 Location: SAUKVILLE, WI	11/1/2009 4:52 PM williamsmotowerx wrote: If you didn't have to force that down (the ICS spring is going to work against the oil in cartridge) you did it wrong. After that's assembled you stroke dampner rod, but leave about 2", don't bottom it out. That's how you bleed them. Rest of oil will splash in fork side after assembled. williamsmotowerx wrote: If you didn't have to force that down (the ICS spring is going to work against the oil in cartridge) you did it wrong. After that's assembled you stroke dampner rod, but leave about 2", don't bottom it out. That's how you bleed them. Rest of oil will splash in fork side after assembled. Quote Last Post Only If you didn't have to force that down (the ICS spring is going to work against the oil in cartridge) you did it wrong. After that's assembled you stroke dampner rod, but leave about 2", don't bottom it out. That's how you bleed them. Rest of oil will splash in fork side after assembled.

Post a Reply to: Fork seal replacement