Do you grease the threads on most bolts?

CC268
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CC268
Edited Date/Time 12/7/2014 6:18pm
This may be a stupid question...just learning as I go. Do you guys tend to apply grease to the threads of most bolts? (excluding things like bolts for plastics, etc)
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rippaaa
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rippaaa 11/22/2014 9:12pm
11/22/2014 9:12pm Edited Date/Time 11/22/2014 9:12pm
No but sometimes applying a little bit of anti seize helps.
queen of spodes 11/23/2014 4:40am
11/23/2014 4:40am
JBernard_401 wrote:
informative video that shows difference in compounds for torque settings. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPoe9S7GqCI
informative video that shows difference in compounds for torque settings.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SPoe9S7GqCI
If anyone is interested a 10oz container of ARP torque assembly lube is currently selling at $19.42 (Amazon Prime):
http://www.amazon.com/ARP-100-9910-Torque-Assembly-Lubricant/dp/B004XJR…
davidgrip
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davidgrip 11/23/2014 9:31am
11/23/2014 9:31am
Maxima Waterproof Grease bolts not requiring Blue Locktite.

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dogger315
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dogger315 11/23/2014 12:48pm
11/23/2014 12:48pm
I don't use grease per se, but I do prep every single bolt with something. Any bolt that is made from a different metal
than what it's being used on, should be prepped with some kind of anti seize. My favorite brands are Finish Line for
Titanium bolts and ARP for steel bolts.

I used to use various waterproof greases, and while it will yield a more accurate torque than a dry bolt, the ARP and
Copper based preps do a much better job.

dogger
CC268
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CC268 11/23/2014 2:10pm
11/23/2014 2:10pm
Thanks I will pick up some antisieze then
Jakes Dad
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Jakes Dad 11/23/2014 3:18pm
11/23/2014 3:18pm
All bolts are run through my wire wheel on bench and then anti seize before installing. Any with bunged up threads are replaced, wire wheel is a good way to check.
Skerby
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Skerby 11/23/2014 4:00pm
11/23/2014 4:00pm
My experience with greasing bolts on the two stroke is that it causes them to fall out.

My dad greased the cylinder base studs one day and I ended up losing all my coolant, bike got really hot lol.
jhansen510
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jhansen510 11/23/2014 4:04pm
11/23/2014 4:04pm
Whats your guys preferred method for cleaning out the receiving threads
CC268
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CC268 11/25/2014 9:25am
11/25/2014 9:25am
So....do I really need to pay $20 for a 10oz bottle of anti-seize? Or can I pick up some Loctite anti-seize from a local store?
Jakes Dad
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Jakes Dad 11/25/2014 9:31am
11/25/2014 9:31am
jhansen510 wrote:
Whats your guys preferred method for cleaning out the receiving threads
Brake Clean and brush cleaning kit from Harbor Freight, then blow out with compressed air.
FGR01
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FGR01 11/25/2014 1:57pm
11/25/2014 1:57pm
CC268 wrote:
So....do I really need to pay $20 for a 10oz bottle of anti-seize? Or can I pick up some Loctite anti-seize from a local store?
Either will work fine. A little really goes a long way. if you get the big can it will last you 15 years. Especially living in AZ. We don't get corrosion here. You really only need anti-seize on your chain adjuster bolts, spoke nipples and a little bit on a few others (any where you notice corrosion or galling). It only takes a dab. Be careful once you put anti seize or grease on threads. It's really easy to over tighten and blow the threads out. Seen many guys throw a torque wrench on a bolt with grease and keep cranking waiting for that click only to have a big pop when the threads let loose.
simmons97
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simmons97 11/25/2014 5:19pm
11/25/2014 5:19pm
No! I do NOT grease or lube threads, as they will effect torque and security. If you grease the threads on, say, a cylinder head bolt, and that bolt is torqued to 210in-lbs, it will crush your cylinder head and washer a lot more, and whole lot easier. Thus, when greased, the normal 210in-lbs will come a lot easier, but only read as maybe 150in-lbs. if you were to take the greased bolt to an indicated 210in-lbs, it will be much tighter than 210in-lbs of force on the cylinder head because the bolt will twist in the threads much easier. This can even happen with solvent or anything that will reduce friction. The same is true the other way around. If I were to dirty the threads with dirt (or a much more realistic situation being rust) the indicated torque of 210in-lbs will really only be maybe 180in-lbs of pressure applied to the cylinder head because the bolt is unwilling to turn in the threads.
Hopefully this will help answer your question and save everyone a bolt or two! Let me known if you have any questions!
simmons97
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simmons97 11/25/2014 5:21pm
11/25/2014 5:21pm
Oh I forgot to mention one thing. Sometimes on some parts, the manufacturer will say that you should apply grease to certain bolts. Or more commonly something like brake fluid for bolts inside the brake calipers. So be sure to follow your manual and take into consideration any tips or steps the manufacturer recommends!
Boarddesign
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Boarddesign 11/27/2014 7:25pm
11/27/2014 7:25pm
I grease any bolt that goes into a nut embedded in plastic such as tank bolts. If you have ever spun one due to a seized bolt you will understand.... tanks cost money!! I've never had one fall out either.
K-dubbb
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K-dubbb 11/28/2014 10:20am
11/28/2014 10:20am
So for chassis bolts is it advised to use blue loc-tite? I have also put things together with grease or without and bolts vibrate loose.
CC268
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CC268 11/28/2014 5:40pm
11/28/2014 5:40pm
Thanks for the tips!

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Rankin726
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Rankin726 12/2/2014 3:54pm
12/2/2014 3:54pm
simmons97 wrote:
Oh I forgot to mention one thing. Sometimes on some parts, the manufacturer will say that you should apply grease to certain bolts. Or more commonly...
Oh I forgot to mention one thing. Sometimes on some parts, the manufacturer will say that you should apply grease to certain bolts. Or more commonly something like brake fluid for bolts inside the brake calipers. So be sure to follow your manual and take into consideration any tips or steps the manufacturer recommends!
Totally correct! Any lubrication on threads will change your torque values. If it needs to be oiled the service manual will indicate that.
mb
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mb 12/5/2014 2:18am
12/5/2014 2:18am
jhansen510 wrote:
Whats your guys preferred method for cleaning out the receiving threads
Tap & Die kit if you want to be really anal about it (or have some really gunked up threads). Avoid cheap "kits" like the plague. If you're just trying to clean out some dirt or something I typically hit the area with the proper cleaning agent for the surface (usually ends up being brake clean for me) then fold up a paper towel into the opening and use a flat head screwdriver to compress the paper towel down into the thread.
Aceofspades 12/7/2014 6:18pm
12/7/2014 6:18pm
I use gun cleaning wire brushes to clean out receiving threads. Works pretty well.

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