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1/12/2012
Location
Darden, TN
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mxer574
1/28/2015 3:38pm
1/28/2015 3:38pm
Edited Date/Time
1/30/2015 9:29am
I have a 2013 crf250 I am having issues with the front brake system, there bad spongie, you can pull it all the way to the handlebars and it's still not enough to make the bike stop. On top of that my front wheel drags constantly. I have bled bled and bled. Didn't help. I rebuilt the master cylinder and calipe. Didn't help. I ordered a new master cylinder and new line that still didn't help. Anyone have any clue as to what's weong with my brake? Any info would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
The Shop
Also be sure to use dot 4 brake fluid.
Paw Paw
Spin your wheel and watch if your caliper wriggles side to side.
Are you using a piece of clear tubing over the bleed nipple so you can watch the air bubbles come out? If not I recommend trying it. Its the only way you can be positive you have purged all the air you can. Use 18"-24" of tubing and route it in an upward fashion then back down into the catch container. This will lessen the chance of sucking air back into the caliper.
Pull the caliper off and spread the pads apart as far as they will go. You may have to remove some fluid from the reservoir so it doesn't spill over. Find two sockets or a piece of wood to place between the pads. Anything that will fit tightly between the pads and solid enough to not be crushed by the pads squeezing it will work. Pump the lever until the pads have a tight grip on whatever you placed between them. What you are doing here is minimizing space in the system where air could become trapped.
Pump the lever and hold it. Crack the banjo bolt loose at the master cylinder, tighten it, release lever. Repeat two or more times while making sure the fluid level isn't too low. The master cylinder should be free of any air now.
Repeat this process for the banjo bolt at the caliper. This will help rid the air in the line itself.
Now bleed at the nipple using clear tubing until absolutely no bubbles appear in the tubing. If you start to see lots of tiny bubbles stop for a couple hours to allow the air to combine into larger bubbles. I always pump the lever slowly as fast pumping is what causes these tiny bubbles.
Remove the object between the pads and reinstall the caliper. Slowly pump the lever while keeping the fluid level sufficient, until the pads contact the rotor. Your brake should feel solid after this half hour of work.
One more thing. Make sure the brake lever pivot bolt and bushing are well lubricated. Ive seen these become dry and rusty causing the lever to bind and drag when applying the brake. It feels like you are building brake pressure but in reality you are feeling the pivot drag.
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