Clickers setup help, 16 RMZ Showa forks

If they have the same settings as the 2015, in my opinion you need to get them revalved.

I found the damping to be way too stiff and it makes setting the spring rate with air pressure really difficult..

I changed the valving several times on mine and ended up with settings similar to a slightly stiffer version of the crf250 tac stack and the Honda tac seems to be liked by a lot of people.

I am running 180/180/0 and I am using all the travel and only bottom hard when I mess something up bad, lol. I am 230 lbs right now.

As above, send the forks to a good local suspension company who has knowledge on the TAC SFF fork and get the valving sorted.

I don't think anyone was able to find a good setting on the forks in stock form, myself included. I went through the same ordeal when I got my RMZ in May '15.
With the valving done, you will likely still need to be patient and spend time testing pressures and clickers but these forks can be pretty good, they just take time.

Alternatively, if you're really not keen on the air forks and the faff of setting air pressures then there are 'Air to Spring' kits available which I have heard work quite well.

Changing from air to steel spring won't help your issue. Damping is Damping, and it's way too stiff imo.

Once you have the valving right, the air pressure is dead easy to set.

Before air forks, there were plenty of crappy spring forks, they had poor valving setup also.

Plus, there are plenty of nay sayers on the internet that either don't have any personal experience with air forks or think that the only solution to the problem is to spend 3 grand on works forks.

I think a lot of the problems with motorcycle setup is what is between people's ears.

I had mine revalved by PR2 on my KX and I love them, they are awesome, I have no complaints. I tinker with the air pressures and I found a setting I like now an they are workin great for me.

Flap, the testing guy here at Suzuki once told me the following was a good base setting. It is too stiff for me, but I weigh 160 and I'm a Vet Intermediate. He's about 180 and a pro.


Main spring (left valve): 190 psi
Balance Chamber (bottom of fork): 190 psi
Outer Spring (right valve):7 psi



Here's how it works:
The main spring is just that - like a set of fork springs. The more air you put in, the stiffer the spring rate.

The balance chamber COUNTERACTS the main spring. More air - softer spring rate. Get this though - it only works for the first 1/3 or so of the fork travel. Thus, you can create a softer fork initially by adding pressure to the balance chamber, or vice-versa. It sounds like you may want to add air here to make the forks initially softer. Go in 5 psi increments

The outer chamber adds spring rate to the fork at the final few inches of travel. Therefore, if you want to make the spring rate stiffer, you can add a few psi to the fork here. Go in small increments (3-4 psi at a time)

Keep in mind all the adjustments to the balance chamber and the outer chamber only affect the main spring, which should be in the ballpark first. Go with more pressure for heavier or faster riders, less pressure for lighter or slower riders. Start with the 190 psi and see what you think. Remember, spring forks have a single rate, so don't go too overboard with wildly different psi settings unless you want a very progressive/regressive spring in the front. Also, don't overlook the old-school clickers, which work like before: clockwise on compression makes them stiffer, counterclockwise is softer. (For the full range of travel.) Clockwise on the rebound is slower, counterclockwise is faster (for the full range of travel.)

One last thing: invest in a good pump and definitely get a zero-loss gauge adapter. It sucks to fine-tune your fork pressure, only to hear the hiss of air when you remove the tool. Suzuki sells an air pump for $74.95 that may have come with your bike (990A0-99201) and a no-loss adapter for $29.95 (990A0-99211.)

Good luck!

EDIT- I see you're in Sweden, so obviously the prices above will be different in your country....

THe best thing I did was buy a zero loss pump. It is an absolute must for getting those forks to work well. It's very critical that the inner and balance are equal. When they were only a few psi off, my bike would bounce out of a rut after the apex of a turn.

Bought the zero loss pump to ensure inner and balance were always equal. That's the ticket. I'm 165 pound, and run 175 inner, 175 balance, zero outter. clickers at 10 out.

Also, don't overlook rear end set up either, make sure your sag is set.

They don't have to equal, but the zero loss adapter is a good idea. Mine is at 176 inner, 6 outer, 163 balance.

In your opinion, how does playing around with the outer affect performance. To be perfectly truthfull, I don't think I personally have explored the outer chamber options enough