CRF250 2010 Starting problems [HELP PLEASE]

Edited Date/Time 7/3/2020 3:19pm
Hi, I'm new to this forum so I don't know weather this is the right place to post this but I need some help diagnosing a starting problem on my bike (CRF 250R 2010)

It seems as if the bike is not getting any fuel but the fuel pump is working, the electrics are fine and my local honda dealer said there has not been any problems with the fuel injection systems at all or not that he's dealt with so far! So I'm unsure what it might be and don't really want to put it in to a shop to get ripped off when I could fix the bike myself if I knew what the problem might be Unsure

Any help would be greatly appreciated thanks guys Smile
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3/16/2012 6:23am
mxtech1 wrote:
need more information
What information would you say is needed to get an idea of what could be wrong??

I have stripped the bike down and come to a decision of my own that it may either be that the injector in the carb is blocked or the electrics going to the injector are not working properly.
mxtech1
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1958
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Location
Galesburg, IL US
3/16/2012 6:49am
Does it have spark?
How strong is the fuel pump working?
Is the injector spraying clean?
What is your valve clearance?

It's pretty hard to diagnose an electrical problem over the internet, let alone on vague information. My best advice is to get your electrical meter and service manual out and use the troubleshooting section to test everthing. It's a long, tedious process but this is why shops charge alot of money for problems like this.
3/16/2012 7:01am
mxtech1 wrote:
Does it have spark? How strong is the fuel pump working? Is the injector spraying clean? What is your valve clearance? It's pretty hard to diagnose...
Does it have spark?
How strong is the fuel pump working?
Is the injector spraying clean?
What is your valve clearance?

It's pretty hard to diagnose an electrical problem over the internet, let alone on vague information. My best advice is to get your electrical meter and service manual out and use the troubleshooting section to test everthing. It's a long, tedious process but this is why shops charge alot of money for problems like this.
Yes the spark plug was checked straight away and swapped over for a new spare and both worked fine
The injector still needs to be checked im planning on doing that tonight once im home from work as Ive only stripped it down at the moment
The valve clearance was checked by a friend of mine who builds race engines and frames for race bikes and side cars in the isle of man TT and world series superbikes using my manual so I trust that everything is all ok there

I was just wondering if anyone had stumbled across this problem before and could offer me some advice to what their problem was Smile

The Shop

3/16/2012 7:36am
You can check the injector by looking through the throttle body with the throttle open while someone kicks the bike to see if it is spraying. You just have to remove the subframe, take the ECU out of the subframe obviously and plug it back in to the harness.

Make sure you don't try putting a 12v power source to the injector to test it if you dont check by kicking the bike. It operates with 5v and you will ruin the injector if you put too much voltage too it.

Did you test compression? Did you do a leak test? 4 strokes need good compression, fuel, air, and timing to run. Check your major things first and work down from those.

When did this issue start? How did the bike act when it first happened? Were you already riding or was it at the beginning of a ride day?

Answering some of those questions may help us help you get your bike starting!
3/16/2012 8:08am
You can check the injector by looking through the throttle body with the throttle open while someone kicks the bike to see if it is spraying...
You can check the injector by looking through the throttle body with the throttle open while someone kicks the bike to see if it is spraying. You just have to remove the subframe, take the ECU out of the subframe obviously and plug it back in to the harness.

Make sure you don't try putting a 12v power source to the injector to test it if you dont check by kicking the bike. It operates with 5v and you will ruin the injector if you put too much voltage too it.

Did you test compression? Did you do a leak test? 4 strokes need good compression, fuel, air, and timing to run. Check your major things first and work down from those.

When did this issue start? How did the bike act when it first happened? Were you already riding or was it at the beginning of a ride day?

Answering some of those questions may help us help you get your bike starting!
Thanks for all these tips! I have already took the injector out so I'm half way there and thankyou for letting me know how to test if the injector is blocked or not thats a big help!

The bike has had a new piston ring and compression test with new valves all at once and this is the first time trying to start it since then.

The problem that first occurred was the bike was slowly getting harder and harder to start and when it was running it got really hot, a shop informed me to check the valves after checking I found out they had stretched.

I havent ran it until its been rebuilt but before the new valves and piston ring it was difficult to start and once it was hot and started it was even harder to start up after it was cut off.
mxtech1
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1958
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Location
Galesburg, IL US
3/16/2012 8:54am
It sounds more like a valve train and/or timing issue
3/16/2012 2:35pm
I agree with MXtech1, check your cam timing first. If that is correct, you need a reputable shop to inspect your cylinder head and valves. If you have trouble finding someone in your area email me at sthilairemx@metrocast.net and I will do my best to help you.
4stroke4DWIN
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Location
texas city, TX US
3/16/2012 6:30pm
Sounds like a timing issue, you may have got it a tooth or two off on the cam sprocket.

On the cam sprocket you have an arrow that should line up with the flat surface of the head, also you have 2 marks on the stator side visible thru the timing plug, and another mark on the clutch side visible thru another inspection plug. The 2 on the stator side are a fire mark and a timing mark the mark on the right of the 2 needs to be lined up with the mark on the case. This all needs to be done on the COMPRESSION stroke not the exhaust stroke.

I would pull the plug and use an allen head tho turn the motor over thru the inspection hole on the clutch side, check to make sure all marks line up. The cam lobes shouldn't be touching the buckets and that will let you know your on the compression stroke at top dead center. If you not sure about TDC get a screwdriver and put tape on the end (protect piston from scratching) and put it down the spark plug hole, watch for it to reach it's highest point and that should be TDC. DO NOT KICK IT OVER WITH THAT SCREW DRIVER DOWN THE HOLE, turn it over by hand. Hope this helps.
Allracing
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270
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9/1/2006
Location
Bountiful, UT US
3/16/2012 10:41pm
You need three things for a bike to run 1. Air, 2. Spark, 3. Fuel. I agree it sounds like a timing issue to me.

I hate to admit this, but make sure there isn't a rag in the air box blocking air getting to the motor.
9/24/2013 11:46am
My 2011 250R is still in the shop (been over 3 months now), had the same problem: hard starting, would bump-start fine but impossible to kick. Rebuilt the motor, still wouldn't start. Problem now traced to the fuel injection electrical circuit (fuel pump was only putting out 12 psi fuel pressure), issue with ground fault in the voltage regulator/capacitor. Bike starts fine with 12V battery connected to fuel pump that provides 48 psi as per spec. Will keep you posted...
9/25/2013 6:06am Edited Date/Time 9/25/2013 3:47pm
You also might double check the fuel pump filter to se if there is a blockage or if is dirty.
1
gyd58
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74
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Location
AL US
9/26/2013 11:23am
The 2010 had issues with the fuel filters and the fuel pump. Both have been updated by Honda. If yours has not been updated it could be one of your issues. We were replacing fuel filters constantly on the 2010 until we upgraded to the new pump and filter.
1
9/26/2013 12:41pm
Thanks for the help guys. Right now the injector & fuel filter is being replaced.

According to Honda they have had issues with the fuel injectors, which are fickle and small amounts of dirt & contaminiation prevent fuel pressure buildup during starting. It gets so bad that the fuel pressure bleeds off in less than 10 min, and after successive attempts kicking the unburnt fuel not only floods the engine, but can wash down the cylinder and wash the oil out of the left crank bearing causing it to fail on startup (especially because everyone rev the shit out of their bike to "clean it out"!).

Recommendation from large aftermarket parts supplier FOR ALL FUEL INJECTED HONDA DIRT BIKES is to install an in-tank micro cloth mesh screen on the fuel tank filling cap to prevent dirt entering tank from fuel filling.

Should have installed the tank screen from new, & listened to my "know-it-all" buddy!

Cheers,

David
3/1/2019 6:09am
Crf efi can fail due to faulty fuel pump housing diaphragm as you will loose the fuel pressure even if the pump is working the unit is only available as one complete lump £480 from Honda this includes a new pump
3/1/2019 6:05pm
THANKS!!! I had the same problem with my 2005 Montessa Repsol Honda EFI 250 trials bike, just needs to have throttle closed all the way, so check there is slack on the throttle cables (see other 2011 CRF250R starting problem in other post). I like your recommendation: to confirm fuel pump pressure as pump diaphragms are known to leak.
3/1/2019 6:07pm
DavidLock wrote:
THANKS!!! I had the same problem with my 2005 Montessa Repsol Honda EFI 250 trials bike, just needs to have throttle closed all the way, so...
THANKS!!! I had the same problem with my 2005 Montessa Repsol Honda EFI 250 trials bike, just needs to have throttle closed all the way, so check there is slack on the throttle cables (see other 2011 CRF250R starting problem in other post). I like your recommendation: to confirm fuel pump pressure as pump diaphragms are known to leak.
PS I had new inject installed, engine rebuilt, even switched the EFI PROM with no results. Recommend replacing a worn kick starter lever, really helps! I'm also installing a Steahly flywheel weight, reprogramming EFI also supposed to make starting easier.
fitchef4
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6/30/2020
Location
Fairview Heights, IL US
6/30/2020 8:58pm
@davidlock what was it that fixed the problem? I am currently having the same issue trying to get my 2010 to kick start. What did it end up being? Any help is appreciated..
7/1/2020 9:52am
Hi fitchef4, we still don't know exactly what the issue was. In 2016 after having our best local mechanic fight with it for 6 months including rebuilding the engine (wasn’t required), new injector etc etc, I took it to a Honda shop where they had the exact same 2011 CRF250R come in, they swapped the ECUs, same problem, then reinstalled the original ECU, and it fired up! So the problem is definitely ECU related. There's a guy in Colorado who offers ECU reflashes & an ECU plug-in for easier starting, I'll find out who it is & post. Since then I've had a used 2018 CRF250R which was also had starting issues (stock MX bikes are not good trail bikes!), now riding a new 2019 CRF250RX which is by far the best trail bike I've ever ridden hard with zero issues since I bought it in Jan 2019. Never touched the suspension or stock settings, just added armor, Protapers & handguards, and rode it HARD! PERFECT. Buying a new Honda is the best way to go, avoiding used dirtbikes and legacy issues is the solution. I just want to ride not wrench!!! 😁👍🏍🏍🏍
fitchef4
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2
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Location
Fairview Heights, IL US
7/1/2020 10:01am
@davidlock thanks for the quick response I really appreciate it. I'm actually just gonna get rid of it hopefully today. It is a great riding bike but starting it is a bitch. If you can send me the link for the ecu plug in that would be great just in case it doesnt sell quickly. Question.did you just bump start it whenever you wanted to ride?
7/1/2020 10:10am
Yup bump started no problem! Just had to remember to stop on a hill!!!
7/3/2020 12:23pm
Hi fitchef4, I talked to my buddy who referred me to Tokyo Mods for the latest ECU kits, maps etc. I'll still get you the Colorado ECU shop info. He also mentioned in 2010/2011 the CRF250Rs had a decompression bump on the cam that caused starting issues also. I'm going to install my Steahly flywheel weight I ordered 5 years ago (that I had Derek Steahly custom make for me) and see if that helps too.Best thing you can do is CAREFULLY unplug then plug back in the ECU to make sure all the tiny pins are making contact. I think this was my original issue. DO NOT put any dielectric conductive grease etc on the ECU pins (one of my mistakes!). Also watch that you carefully unlock the ECU plug BEFORE pulling it out! (I broke the locking pins). As a Mechanical Engineer I'm a little rough due to my impatience dealing with bikes with issues! Arghhh!!
7/3/2020 12:24pm
I'm selling mine too! Don't want to have lemon issues with the new owner.
walent215
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Ridgecrest, CA US
7/3/2020 3:19pm
You also might double check the fuel pump filter to se if there is a blockage or if is dirty.
Weve had to replace the filters on our 13 and 15...will start but very hard . Cheap , easy and a maintenance item anyhow so it's worth a shot!

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