Black oil coming out of boot seal kx125

Paw Paw 271
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Paw Paw 271 7/17/2015 3:32pm
7/17/2015 3:32pm Edited Date/Time 7/17/2015 3:32pm
Have the power valves been cleaned lately?
If not, do so.

Paw Paw
richlewis14 7/17/2015 3:39pm
7/17/2015 3:39pm
It wasn't mentioned when I bought the bike, just that an oil change was done. I'll make this my next job, should I be looking to replace anything whilst I'm doing it? Thanks
Paw Paw 271
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Paw Paw 271 7/17/2015 5:14pm
7/17/2015 5:14pm
Just make sure the rubber cover seals good.
Also make sure the correct amount of oil is in the trans as too much will cause leaks.
You will most likely need to remove the cylinder to remove and clean those power valves correctly. They will have oil and a carbon build up on them, so some gaskets will be needed.

Paw Paw
CrGuy2T
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CrGuy2T 7/17/2015 6:58pm
7/17/2015 6:58pm
On all used bikes I get I usually do a top end and pull the clutch case. This will help you find some of the small problems as your going back together to eliminate.

The Shop

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richlewis14 7/18/2015 4:37am
7/18/2015 4:37am
Thanks for the answers so far guys, I do have a manual so that's going to help me but from your experience in what order will I be removing things? Any potential banana skins I should be aware of?
Aceofspades 7/18/2015 7:50pm
7/18/2015 7:50pm
richlewis14 wrote:
Thanks for the answers so far guys, I do have a manual so that's going to help me but from your experience in what order will...
Thanks for the answers so far guys, I do have a manual so that's going to help me but from your experience in what order will I be removing things? Any potential banana skins I should be aware of?
Ive got a pdf manual for an 03 if itll help u.
richlewis14 7/19/2015 12:03pm
7/19/2015 12:03pm
Hey guys, update with the power valve.

Checked with the previous owner who stated that there was a full top end rebuild about 18 months ago when he bought it but the bike has been used 3 times in that time frame, for 12 months it's been sat in his garage doing nothing.

So took it apart today and there is oil everywhere in there, but no carbon build up as when I wipe the oil away inside the chamber it's like brand new in there.( guess this supports the rebuild statement ? )

The seals where all perished, falling apart as I tried pulling them off the housing and cases. Also the spark plug has oil on it. Below are photos of the piston, Powevralve housing and spark plug.

Would you guys say that this is just the seals breaking down over time due to the bike being sat full of oil for 12 months? I'm going to clean it all and replace seals and put it back together and see how it goes.









Paw Paw 271
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Paw Paw 271 7/19/2015 12:47pm
7/19/2015 12:47pm Edited Date/Time 7/19/2015 12:49pm
There looks to be more going on there than just dirty power valves. I see what looks like wear on the exhaust side of the piston skirt. I also see some discoloration on the cylinder walls on the intake side. That with the blow by and oil on the piston tells me there is also a leaking crank seal on the clutch side and well as the need for a top end job including getting proper measurements of the cylinder.

FYI: Tearing down an engine with that much dirt on it is just asking for trouble.

Paw Paw
richlewis14 7/19/2015 1:20pm
7/19/2015 1:20pm Edited Date/Time 7/19/2015 1:35pm
Thanks again for your comments paw paw, appreciated. So I have a lot of problems then? Would you be able to advise a plan of attack so to speak on addressing the issues you have raised please? In your opinion is this going to be expensive?

With regards to tearing the engine down with that much dirt, I wasn't sure how to go about finding my problems without looking? Have I caused more damage by doing so?

Or do you mean that the amount of dirt on the outside could find its way in and cause problems?
Thanks again
Paw Paw 271
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Paw Paw 271 7/19/2015 2:09pm
7/19/2015 2:09pm Edited Date/Time 7/19/2015 2:12pm
Yes tearing down a dirty engine will allow dirt to get inside easy and cause even more issues. Always wash before you tear down an engine.
The first thing to do is to have the cylinder measured to see if it's in spec. If not then it will have to be replated or replaced.
In either case a new piston and rings will be needed to either match the new cylinder, the replated cylinder or in your good used cylinder.
The crank seal should not be a big item to replace except that most Kawasaki's have them being installed from inside the case after it is split. I will check to see if that is the case on your bike.
You are talking several hundred dollars to get all this done, even if you do most of the work yourself.

OK, I checked and your clutch side crank seal can be replaced without splitting the case.

Paw Paw
richlewis14 7/19/2015 2:51pm
7/19/2015 2:51pm Edited Date/Time 7/19/2015 2:51pm
Much appreciated paw paw, a little bit of light there at the end of the tunnel haha. Whilst I'm changing the clutch side seal are there any other recommended consumables I should be changing? What about any other seals on the other side?

When I previously started the bike I recall it sounding very tinny, almost like a ball bearing pinging around a metal case if that makes sense..

I will make sure the engine is clean before tackling anything else and get the cylinder measured. What would cause the cylinder to wear down? The piston hitting it?

Thanks again for your help, it's appreciated.
Paw Paw 271
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Paw Paw 271 7/19/2015 3:32pm
7/19/2015 3:32pm
Be sure to check the crank bearings. If there is wear in them they will sound rather tiny in sound. On the stator side you can just see if the flywheel will move any, either up and down or side to side. If so, they are bad as well.
Do the same with the rod on the crank. Any movement up and down is not good and would indicate that the crank needs rebuilding or replacing.
It's best to find all of this bad stuff now and fix it one time rather than having several very costly failures one right after the other.
You really need to get a service manual for your bike. They are cheap and will save you hundreds in the long run.

Paw Paw
richlewis14 7/19/2015 11:44pm
7/19/2015 11:44pm Edited Date/Time 7/19/2015 11:44pm
Thanks again Paw Paw, I will check all these things, I do have a manual so will try to refer to that as much as possible
richlewis14 7/20/2015 2:06am
7/20/2015 2:06am Edited Date/Time 7/20/2015 3:20am
Before i order the new seals and bearings (might as well if I'm replacing seals and opening up the case), from this diagram http://www.kawasakioriginalparts.com/kawasaki_motorcycle_parts_selectio… which bearings and seals should i be ordering..Just the ones on the clutch side or do i need to look at the left side to.? If it is just the right side would it be

92049a
92045
92045e

And looking at the manual to get to the clutch side crankcase bearings and seal replaced I need to remove the clutch (I need a clutch holder before doing this) and then the crankcase cover? It does mention splitting aswell but Paw Paw has stated that this is not the case and I have seen some threads where people have mentioned not splitting the case.
Thanks
Paw Paw 271
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Paw Paw 271 7/20/2015 3:35am
7/20/2015 3:35am
YOu do not have to split the case to replace the clutch side seal, but to replace the crank bearings you do have to split the cases.

Paw Paw
richlewis14 7/20/2015 3:51am
7/20/2015 3:51am
Thanks for the clarification Paw Paw, replacing crank bearings is a job for a professional then?
richlewis14 7/20/2015 5:06am
7/20/2015 5:06am
Another question (apologies),what would the the best/safest way to remove/clean the oil from my power valve and the housing without causing any damage?
HenryA
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HenryA 7/20/2015 9:42am
7/20/2015 9:42am
The KX usually clogs up there if it's jetted a bit rich. But on the other hand, your spark plug almost indicates that it's a bit lean. Did you wipe the plug before the picture?

Clean it up, replace the sealings and it should be good to go. Remember to run the right fuel to oil ratio and to use the right oil.

Pit Row

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richlewis14 7/22/2015 12:52am
7/22/2015 12:52am
Just to give an update, i have removed the engine from the frame, cleaning it all up, degrease etc. Am then changing all seals around powervalve, will remove replace crankcase seal and then put back together. Will then see how she runs.

I had a question around setting up the idle valve and air screw though. From what i have read should the air screw be turned 1-1.5 turns from seated and the idle valve 1 turn from seated as a default?

Then get bike running and warm. Adjust idle valve until bike idles (as this is what i want to achieve), and then to make adjustments adjust air screw in small increments (1/8 turns). I should be applying throttle and listening for the way the bike returns to idle, listening out for a smooth increase in rpm and a smooth decrease in rpm

Is this correct?
HenryA
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HenryA 7/22/2015 3:37pm
7/22/2015 3:37pm
richlewis14 wrote:
Just to give an update, i have removed the engine from the frame, cleaning it all up, degrease etc. Am then changing all seals around powervalve...
Just to give an update, i have removed the engine from the frame, cleaning it all up, degrease etc. Am then changing all seals around powervalve, will remove replace crankcase seal and then put back together. Will then see how she runs.

I had a question around setting up the idle valve and air screw though. From what i have read should the air screw be turned 1-1.5 turns from seated and the idle valve 1 turn from seated as a default?

Then get bike running and warm. Adjust idle valve until bike idles (as this is what i want to achieve), and then to make adjustments adjust air screw in small increments (1/8 turns). I should be applying throttle and listening for the way the bike returns to idle, listening out for a smooth increase in rpm and a smooth decrease in rpm

Is this correct?
Pretty much yes. I'm not sure about the settings tho.

Print this manual and have a read. Lot's of good information in there.
http://www.manualslib.com/manual/733912/Kawasaki-Kx125.html?page=26#man…
bronwynrayne
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bronwynrayne 7/24/2015 9:59am
7/24/2015 9:59am
richlewis14 wrote:
Just to give an update, i have removed the engine from the frame, cleaning it all up, degrease etc. Am then changing all seals around powervalve...
Just to give an update, i have removed the engine from the frame, cleaning it all up, degrease etc. Am then changing all seals around powervalve, will remove replace crankcase seal and then put back together. Will then see how she runs.

I had a question around setting up the idle valve and air screw though. From what i have read should the air screw be turned 1-1.5 turns from seated and the idle valve 1 turn from seated as a default?

Then get bike running and warm. Adjust idle valve until bike idles (as this is what i want to achieve), and then to make adjustments adjust air screw in small increments (1/8 turns). I should be applying throttle and listening for the way the bike returns to idle, listening out for a smooth increase in rpm and a smooth decrease in rpm

Is this correct?
If you're talking about your carb I would pull it apart and check your jets, making sure that you restore it to stock jetting for the meantime.

Go to page 41 and 42 of this guide for your carb specs:
https://www.howtomotorcyclerepair.com/images/Kawasaki-KX125-KX250-Servi…

Did you check the ID on the cylinder?
richlewis14 7/28/2015 2:34pm
7/28/2015 2:34pm Edited Date/Time 7/28/2015 3:06pm
Another update guys, really close to getting the crank case seal out, the only thing in the way now is removing the primary gear nut, it won't budge.. Is using a flywheel holder tool the way to go ( could this cause bend on the rod if too much pressure applied?) or is an air gun the only way forward? Have even tried rags in the gear itself to wedge it but no joy as gear won't catch.

Also just to double check before I try again it's anti clockwise to loosen?
Spydee
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Spydee 8/4/2015 2:55am
8/4/2015 2:55am
Well thanks to this little gem we managed to get the primary gear nut off and now the motor is back in one piece!

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