250sx with HPSD on nekken SFS triple(updated)

Thelen20
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Marshall, TX US
11/24/2015 6:54am
Sub'd for pics and info on the finished product! I hate headshake!!!
JBernard_401
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Boulder, CO US
11/24/2015 11:16am
i may can help a little, even though we have different bikes.
I want to say there are 2 different revisions of the HPSD. I dont know if they have difference in throw, so take this with a grain of salt, but i dont think it should matter if you have a newer HPSD.

in the "compressed" state I am running mine with .450" open play between bottom of body and top of bolt hole machined faced.

I would measure the 'uncompressed' state, do a tack weld of the top bracket, put it on, turn bars fully, then measure play again, to make sure you arent right at the end of travel. I want to say the way i have mine i still have about .250" of travel on the uncompressed end at full range of turning.



Charper732
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Scottdale, GA US
11/24/2015 4:51pm Edited Date/Time 11/24/2015 4:52pm
I talked to ride eng today and they were telling me there wasn't a difference in mounting from the 2 versions of the HPSD. He said when mounted it should be 90mm, thats .250" gap from bottomed out when steering is straight. He didn't have a measurement for me though on the top mount from the steering neck. I guess I'll just have to wait for the bottom bracket to get here.

Bike is torn down now and waiting.

The Shop

JBernard_401
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Boulder, CO US
11/24/2015 8:55pm
did you get someone to make you a weld on top adapter? if so you can just leave it half an inch long or so from where you think it will be and then when you get it all back together trim it to suit before you weld.
i just put my bars straight, then aligned from the side for it to be inline with the head tube angle best i could.
Charper732
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Scottdale, GA US
11/26/2015 9:46am
did you get someone to make you a weld on top adapter? if so you can just leave it half an inch long or so from...
did you get someone to make you a weld on top adapter? if so you can just leave it half an inch long or so from where you think it will be and then when you get it all back together trim it to suit before you weld.
i just put my bars straight, then aligned from the side for it to be inline with the head tube angle best i could.
I mean the "adapter" will just be a short piece of bar stock welded to the head tube and then drilled and tapped.
Charper732
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Scottdale, GA US
12/6/2015 4:27pm
So i got a piece of bar stock welded on yesterday. I had to drill and tap it a bit off center in order to get the correct amount of distance eye to eye but it works. Off to powder coating next.


JBernard_401
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Boulder, CO US
12/6/2015 6:39pm
sweet baby jesus why didnt you drill and tap that in a lathe before you welded it on there.
Charper732
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Scottdale, GA US
12/6/2015 7:02pm Edited Date/Time 12/6/2015 7:03pm
Because I didn't do the welding. It was a little bit off as you can tell and by me waiting to drill and tap it I was able to mount it with the exact amount of distance from eye to eye in the compressed state. Luckily there is ~4mm of wall thickness left. Anymore and I would of had to get guy to reweld it.
swatdoc
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Temecula, CA US
12/25/2015 7:48pm Edited Date/Time 12/25/2015 7:49pm
I did almost the same thing on my '16 350. Got some 3/4" chromoly stock and had a machine shop mill it to the correct contour to match the steering column. Tapped it for the weird 7mm bolt that Honda uses. Had it TIG welded on then PC'ed the frame RAL2009. I went ahead and set mine up to use the stock Honda aluminum spacer

tomm55x
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Erie, PA US
12/26/2015 5:02am


I got everything from ride engineering, their 23.5 triple clamp has already helped the handling on my 14 yz250f tremendously and their triple clamp has the mount built on it and they also make the bracket kit too. I know it's not a nekken clamp but I am still pretty excited to try this out on my Yamaha.

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