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All we did was open the 16 TPS sensor package and popped it on bike fired right up. My mechanic was shocked. I had not told him this entire story. He thought it was blown up lol I think. He put it on and kicked and it started on the 2nd kick like it supposed to....
Anyways I decided to pull out the bike the other day and go take a ride. I go out to the farmers house (he's really not a farmer I just bust his balls) and start my bike and what do you know, everything you and others have described started happening. My bike has only 7.2 hours on it. I went over the bike at the track, tore it apart several times trying to figure out what the heck happened. I do have a motorcycle tech background. I have the two stroke and know part numbers are different between the two bikes but started looking at oem part numbers and noticed that they changed the o ring and a screw to the tps on the two stroke also. I noticed other posts on this thread mentioning o ring changes n stuff. anyways thanks for all the input everyone. BTW Sgrimmxdad did you ever make a YouTube video or anything? It's 5 am here in PA and well I am about to go out and do some multi metering just to make sure so I don't make an ass out of myself with Yamaha. Honestly that TPS on my carb is the only thing I did not check...
The Shop
I bought a Yamaha FI code reader and it had a code for the air temp sensor, so I replaced it but it made no difference. Then I changed the coolant temp and intake air pressure, still no joy.
I proved the fuel pump was giving out the correct 47psi and replaced the spark plug as a matter of course.
As I was clutching at straws I decided to take it for a ride to see if I could replicate the fault conditions, and sure enough after 20 minutes the misfire returned.
Then I got lucky. I took the fuel cap off and the misfire disappeared. I put it back on and the misfire returned. I gave the fuel cap a shake to see if I could hear the ball bearings inside rattling, I couldn't so the fuel pump must have been pulling a vacuum. I shook it harder and the bearings came loose, put the cap back on and it ran fine so I went straight home and ordered a new one.
It arrives Thursday so I'll report back as it could be the best £45 ive spent on it.
I’m a a-class racer that does a-class maintenance, I have a ton of Yamaha parts in stock including s new yz450f throttle body and ecu, stators, iAT sensor, coil, and all kinds of stuff, I also have a new fuel tank in stock, my original plan was to use a 450 harness and throttle body?
Good luck and please post if you find the problem.
Did you replace everything electrical with new parts or used parts?
When you rebuilt the motor did you also do the head, I know you said entire but just double checking?
I'm having similar electrical woes with a yz450f, when my capacitor failed it would take at least 7 constant kicks before I would get spark and it was in spec Ohm wise which is the odd thing but that fixed the issue when replaced. I have had a bad stator once on a different bike that would just die on you when it got hot. Like you said it would start right away cold but once it warmed up it would just cut out and die then be a bitch to start again unless you let it cool down. No visual damage, swapped it and fixed the issue.
I have my eyes on a 16 and YZ250f in hopes they aren't as finicky electrical wise but I'm still scared since they are basically the same and thinking of finally joining the orange bandwagon as the safe route!
Pit Row
I replaced the kill switch on the 250 from a fall that broke it somehow and it just looked like vaseline in the connection. I believe the grease is supposed to be petroleum based and so thinking Vaseline would be perfect but I have read of some issues with certain brands of dielectric grease so now I'm wondering what brand to use???
Post a reply to: 2015 YZ250F PROBLEMS!