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That is a really nice bike to build. I didn't know you could buy a new C+J frame. I'm looking forward to seeing it come together
What suspension are you putting on it?
Does anyone know exactly what the benefit is supposed to be?
And Lonestar, it's definitely drum brake.
Max - will be running Fox Factory Forx up front and Fox Airs out back.
Debating whether to stick with the chromoly swingarm Jeff provides, or to have Karl make me an aluminum one.
another debate i'm having is the rear hub. the stock XR hub weighs 7lbs, 3oz..I'm sure a CR hub is much less. The only issue would be that if i use a CR hub, the brake will be on the opposite side of the brake pedal. I have seen pics of this working - the cable just has to snake around to the other side. Not the cleanest setup, but it might save several pounds
The Shop
Disk brakes don't matter due to using hydhydraulics to apply braking force
Swatdoc, go with a hub from a 84 Honda hub. They had left side chains that year. Or RM hubs front and rear to match, they had strait pull spokes.
If you are having an aluminim swingarm built, Is it possible to copy the Works Honda look?
I suppose the only draw back to having an aluminum swingarm made is the cost. I don't see steel being a problem as long as its designed with some though
I was always wondering how that all works. This made it a bit more clear. Im converting my 75 Rupp RMX to full floating
Max - thanks for the heads up on the 84 hub. After a little research it looks like Honda used that same CR250 hub from 84 thru 86. From the pictures it definitely looks lighter than the XR hub. I'll see what I can pick up on Ebay.
Thanks everyone for your input
If that diagrams theory made that bike of a difference then why arent braking forces a problem for the new bikes?
so maybe since I'll be using a cable, it won't really matter after all
I can definitely see the difference if using a rod activated drum brake - as the swingarm goes up and down the effective length of the rod would change, thereby changing the amount of braking force. With a cable it shouldn't matter.
Yamaha went from the floating to non floating then back to floating because of complaints of poor rear brake modulation.
Personally I like the old PE and MR cable actuated brakes. Simple to setup and made for easier wheel changes.
Only minor issue is that it uses a 20mm axle, compared to 17mm for the XR. I should be able to have the slots in the swingarm enlarged by 3mm no problem. Will have to get custom axle and spacers made, but that shouldn't be too difficult. If I have Karl make me a whole new swingarm I'll just send him everything and get it made to match up. Gotta make sure I get the spacers just right so the rear sprocket is not misaligned with the countershaft sprocket.
I figured I might as well float the rear brake. Looks like I will only have to weld one tab to the frame just behind the footpeg mount.
Post a reply to: free float the rear brake?