Project bike: 1986 Honda CR125R

JMX82
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Hyllykallio FI
4/5/2016 11:22am
I got the clutch cover from Warren Berthiaume in UK. Here's the ebay listing http://goo.gl/i8rnOq. I think he had only two or three left and he wasn't going to make more.
JMX82
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4/8/2016 1:22pm
Got something very special for the bike. Unused 56mm nicasil plated HRC cylinder and cylinder head. This cylider was designed for 50mm stroke (needs -84 model crank with 50mm stroke) but I'm tempted to do a 133 ccm stroker motor with stock -86 crankshaft with 54mm stroke.





JMX82
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Hyllykallio FI
4/11/2016 3:37am
Does anyone know what is the correct RAL code for the frame paint? It's seems to be bit more orange tone than later model CR's
JMX82
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4/11/2016 11:48am Edited Date/Time 4/11/2016 11:56am
I was thinking about powder coating because it will last lot longer.

I did some test fitting with the HRC cylinder. I think it can be made to work with stock -86 crankshaft and 4 mm spacer under the cylinder. There was a small cap between piston skirt and intake channel when piston was at bdc. Will that cause any problems? Does -84 model have a different piston skirt shape? It is almost impossible to find a good -84 model crankshaft so I would rather build engine with stock crankshaft and spacer under the cylinder. I also have to make longer exhaust valve arm to compensate 4 mm higher cylinder.












The Shop

JMX82
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4/11/2016 10:18pm
Do you have any pictures of the crankshaft? I think shipping cost between Finland and USA might be bit too expensive.
Bman_145
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Nor Cal, CA US
4/11/2016 11:12pm Edited Date/Time 4/11/2016 11:13pm
+1 for the powder from Don. Just like Roadrider said, I got mine from him and it looks amazing.

JMX82
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4/14/2016 10:07pm
I think I have two options for the engine now. Make 2 mm spacer for the cylinder and have 2 mm milled from the combustion chamber or go with the -84 crankshaft route.

I'm bit worried about milling extra rare HRC cylinder head. If it goes bad I wont be able to find replacement and my HRC cylinder will be pretty much useless after that. Although the idea of 133 engine sounds still pretty good.

On the other hand it would be lot easier just build the engine with -84 crankshaft. But it turns out that it's one year model only crankshaft and its really difficult to find one in decent shape. I have one crankshaft coming from Ebay which I got really cheap but I don't know if it's salvageable and in the long run finding spare crankshafts for the bike will be real pain.

It would be nice to hear what do you think about my options?
TTperra
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SE
4/14/2016 11:51pm
Is it a different boltpattern for the HRC head compared to oem?
JMX82
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4/15/2016 12:06am
Oem cylinder has five bolt pattern and HRC version has only four.

Here is the oem cylinder head



And here is the HRC version




JMX82
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4/16/2016 10:24pm
I cleaned rear shock yesterday and found a problem. Chrome surface of the shock shaft is worn out in one spot. I think I might need to find a another shock for the bike.

This is how the shock looked before I started cleaning it



After some liberal amount of brake cleaner and vigorous scrubbing



I think I have a problem here



JMX82
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4/25/2016 12:24pm
Got better fuel tank for the bike from fellow VitalMX:er TTperra from Sweden. The tank is bit rough shape but it's a lot better than my original tank.





I also cleaned the swingarm and to turned out to be in really good shape for an old bike.



jtracing6
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Dundalk IE
4/26/2016 6:36pm
You can also use the 1986 CR250/500 shock. It will probably need re valving and a spring change though. The spring from the 125 is a smaller diameter in case you thought to use that.
Old-Man
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Colorado springs, CO US
4/27/2016 9:41pm
Very cool! this was my second bike had many wins with it.
first thing I did was get rid of the ATAC chamber for a Pro Circuit pipe but then it wouldn't be stock again would it.

Great find, always reminds me of Micky Dymond


JMX82
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4/28/2016 7:47am
I got the frame and sub frame back from sand blasting today. Good news is that there was no cracks under the paint so welding is not required.



RyanLester761
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El Dorado Hills, CA US
4/28/2016 8:41am
JMX82 wrote:
I got the frame and sub frame back from sand blasting today. Good news is that there was no cracks under the paint so welding is...
I got the frame and sub frame back from sand blasting today. Good news is that there was no cracks under the paint so welding is not required.



Scared me for a second. I thought you decided to go with silver powder coat after all that talk about keeping original! Fweew!

I love these '86 CR125s. My buddy had the CR80 way back when. That bike looked awesome too and it ripped!

I don't have much input here, but I just wanted to suggest using Cometic Gaskets for your cylinder spacer- if you end up that route. They can make you a spacer super cheap.
JMX82
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4/28/2016 10:47pm
Frame is going to powder coated to match original color as close as possible. It has shiny bare metal surface at the moment. I'm not a fan of weird frame colors and fitting plastics from newer models to older bikes. I hate when I see bikes ruined like that in for sale adds.

I think I'm going to build the motor with 50mm stroke like it was originally intended by HRC. I'm still in process to find a good crankshaft for the motor.
Slosh 112
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Mackay QLD AU
5/1/2016 4:51pm
Can just get the shaft re chromed, I did it on my bike, came up looking as good as new, cheaper than a new one.





JMX82
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5/6/2016 9:21am
I started to working on with the rear fender today.

This is how it looked before:

This is how it turned out after some sanding, heat gun treatment and Plastic Renew stuff. I'm still not 100% happy about the result but it's getting there



jtracing6
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5/6/2016 9:42am
Seems a lot of work when you can get a UFO rear mudguard that is indistinghuisable from OEM for £20.
Slosh 112
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Mackay QLD AU
5/6/2016 3:32pm
Heat gun! I'm going to try that on my air box, couldn't figure out how to get the grey sanding marks out of it from the 2000 grit.
billyslad
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GB
5/6/2016 10:42pm
JMX82 wrote:
I think I have two options for the engine now. Make 2 mm spacer for the cylinder and have 2 mm milled from the combustion chamber...
I think I have two options for the engine now. Make 2 mm spacer for the cylinder and have 2 mm milled from the combustion chamber or go with the -84 crankshaft route.

I'm bit worried about milling extra rare HRC cylinder head. If it goes bad I wont be able to find replacement and my HRC cylinder will be pretty much useless after that. Although the idea of 133 engine sounds still pretty good.

On the other hand it would be lot easier just build the engine with -84 crankshaft. But it turns out that it's one year model only crankshaft and its really difficult to find one in decent shape. I have one crankshaft coming from Ebay which I got really cheap but I don't know if it's salvageable and in the long run finding spare crankshafts for the bike will be real pain.

It would be nice to hear what do you think about my options?
By putting a spacer underneath the barrel you will affect port timing which may offset the benefits of the HRC barrel
Have you spoken to any tuners about this ?
JMX82
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Hyllykallio FI
5/6/2016 11:46pm
jtracing6 wrote:
Seems a lot of work when you can get a UFO rear mudguard that is indistinghuisable from OEM for £20.
I don't want to spend 300€ for complete new plastic set at this point. I'm going refurbish all the original plastic parts on this bike and save some money. Maybe later i will get complete new plastic kit for the bike after I get it run properly.

Heat gun works great with the sanding marks. You just have be careful not to give too much heat to one place.

I'm quite pleased how the rear fender turned out. Now I can proceed to other plastic parts.



I have already abandoned the idea of spacer under the cylinder and I'm going to use older crankshaft with shorter stroke. I have already located one crankshaft here in Finland and should be having that someday next week. I hope that will work with my cylinder and is in good enough shape to be rebuilt with new connecting rod.

MaxPower
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NJ US
5/7/2016 8:39pm
You will get a better result by taking the Plastic Renue and throwing the bottle in the trash
Next get all that shit off your fender with gas/contact cleaner.
Now get the correct arbor to put a buffing wheel in a cordless drill. Then on low speed buff the plastic until it shines. Has to be sanded ridiculously smooth first. But you did that with the Plastic Renue already. I can't believe anyone would say that stuff is anything but sub mediocre. I'd almost rather a Craigslist Bbq black spray bomb than Plastic Renue
1
JMX82
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5/8/2016 7:44am
I don't know what is the problem using Plastic Renew to get shine in plastic parts? It's not much different than waxing your car.

I'm going to ride this bike and it will have more scrathes on the plastic parts so it don't want to spent too much time polishing plastics with buffing wheel which would take forever.
1
Matt Fisher
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Visalia, CA US
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1117th
5/8/2016 9:40am
Plastic Renew is the same stuff as Mop & Glo with Teflon, just in a smaller bottle with a much higher price.
They don't actually polish the plastic, they leave a thin shiny film on the plastic.
JMX82
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Hyllykallio FI
5/9/2016 11:03am Edited Date/Time 5/9/2016 7:55pm
Got the frame back from the powder coating today. The color is pretty good match for the oem color.







I also did some polishing with the front fender. Here is before picture:



And after polishing:



Jim in VA
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Louisville, KY US
5/9/2016 5:45pm
Nice job so far, just came across this. Lots of elbow grease for sure! Did you ever find your shop manual? I have an 88 CR125, very similar in appearance, just red, case reed, rear disc, different atac, and other things... Much of the styling is the same. I have both a Clymer and Honda manual that I'm 99% sure covers the 86. If you need any info or something scanned out of one let me know. I had an 84 CR125 back in the mid 90's. It was in rough shape, and I eventually junked it. I wish I still had it, as it seems to be tough to find parts for these days. I'd just give them away to see them live one.
JMX82
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Hyllykallio FI
5/12/2016 9:50pm
Jim in VA wrote:
Nice job so far, just came across this. Lots of elbow grease for sure! Did you ever find your shop manual? I have an 88 CR125...
Nice job so far, just came across this. Lots of elbow grease for sure! Did you ever find your shop manual? I have an 88 CR125, very similar in appearance, just red, case reed, rear disc, different atac, and other things... Much of the styling is the same. I have both a Clymer and Honda manual that I'm 99% sure covers the 86. If you need any info or something scanned out of one let me know. I had an 84 CR125 back in the mid 90's. It was in rough shape, and I eventually junked it. I wish I still had it, as it seems to be tough to find parts for these days. I'd just give them away to see them live one.
I got Haynes manual from Ebay for the bike but I haven't had much time to study it yet

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