Prepping 96' CR250R frame for powder coating

StevieD113 9/30/2015 4:15am
9/30/2015 4:15am
From the pics it look like the frame is in good order, no dings, dents or anything bent or broken. It looks like the paint is coming off but thats nothing to worry about. All the old paint will be blasted off by the powder coater.

If there are any areas that are damaged, or bent nows the time to fix them!

Make sure the frame is clean and de-greased before it goes off to powder. The blasting grit will just stick to any grease and then look terrible with powder on top.

One thing we always do it to use some old bolts and screw them 2-3 turns into all the threads. You dont want them sticking out the other side but in far enough to not drop out. This stops the threads getting full of powder coat. We also run taps through ALL the threads once its back to clean any blasting grit/gunge/muck out.
The thread sizes on the frame are M6x1.0mm & M8x1.25mm.

Stevie
cr250forlife 9/30/2015 4:54am
9/30/2015 4:54am
Hey Stevie,

Thanks for the feedback, so that hole shown in the last 2 pics, right next to the footpegs, should I find a welder to fix that up? That's the main area I'm curious about and it's what's keeping me from going to the powder coater.

Thanks again.
newmann
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newmann 9/30/2015 5:54am
9/30/2015 5:54am
Check the fit and angle of your foot pegs. Don't want to be trying to fix floppy and sagging foot peg mounts after powder coating.

What is that hole you mention caused from? Anything go there?
Markopolo400
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Markopolo400 9/30/2015 6:55am
9/30/2015 6:55am
One thing I should have done when I got mine done is remove ANY grease from anywhere on the frame. I mistakenly left some in the steering head, and when the frame goes into the oven for cooking, the heat makes the grease run like water which can make a big mess for the coater.

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Slingshot92
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Slingshot92 9/30/2015 6:56am
9/30/2015 6:56am
My RM-125 frame was cracked from multiple places, the footpegs needed welding, needed many new bolt grooves, etc.

It was first sandblasted, then welded and grinded. Be sure to check the frame very closely. Especially small cracks might not be visible under the paint. Fix everything, fill the bolt holes with a temporary bolts, etc.

Few pics here:
http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Old-School-Moto,22/Suzuki-RM-125-1992-pro…
cr250forlife 9/30/2015 2:40pm
9/30/2015 2:40pm
Alright everyone, thank you all for the tips. I really appreciate the advice.

I found a good spot that will sandblast, weld any problem spots, and powder coat nearby and at a good price, so I'm going to take it to them, will post here with the results!
cr250forlife 9/30/2015 3:12pm
9/30/2015 3:12pm Edited Date/Time 9/30/2015 3:14pm
newmann, just above the hole is where the rear master cylinder mounts. It is approximately where the pivot for the brake pedal would be... Upon more inspection of my manual (though not clear) it appears that this is part of the design of the frame.

barkhard696
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barkhard696 9/30/2015 5:02pm
9/30/2015 5:02pm
The hole is for the rear brake pivot. Keep us posted on the build!
cr250forlife 9/30/2015 6:06pm
9/30/2015 6:06pm Edited Date/Time 9/30/2015 6:23pm
barkhard, I made a mistake in how I diagrammed the images. I agree that the hole in the red area is for the brake pivot. But, if you look at the yellow arrow, it is pointing to a specific area (the corner of the frame jutting out from the brake pivot hole) where I found the hole in question and that is the area that looks eroded to me (circled below)...

cr250forlife 10/19/2015 11:40pm
10/19/2015 11:40pm
Got the frame back from the powder coater!

Thanks for the helpful advice everyone, it turned out great, and was pretty good price too ($160 for frame and subframe)





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