Posts
36
Joined
4/25/2015
Location
Orlando, FL
US
Dave M
4/25/2015 5:27pm
4/25/2015 5:27pm
Edited Date/Time
5/23/2015 4:09pm
rode back in the 70's RM250 trail riding mostly. Got a RM400, want to get back into it. Will be looking for places to ride in central florida.
I still need to get some gear (helmet/boots/prob knee braces since I am old). Do folks buy that stuff on line? or should I visit a shop and check out before I buy? its been 35rys since I was on a cycle.
I still need to get some gear (helmet/boots/prob knee braces since I am old). Do folks buy that stuff on line? or should I visit a shop and check out before I buy? its been 35rys since I was on a cycle.
I got in the best dice at an open practice on a guy with a RM400 and I was on my new 250f. Ever since that day I have wanted one bad
The Shop
Have fun, be safe, the ground is harder now!
For sure be safe! older and I hope wiser, a man got to know his limitations (Dirty H mag force).
My other hobby
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCxMsHgfGwCVtyRrqXVtll-g
I figured it was time to diversify some.
The bike has a fresh top end. I used to run a castor based oil, Bel ray IIRC in a tall white bottle back in the 70's.
Is this still the best way to go?, or has there been a lot of changes since then. I see MC-1 full syn oil advertised a lot.
Also I used straight 30w in the crankcase back in the day, now I see 85wt trans oil which if I understand is the same viscosity as 30w motor oil.
Lastly does it matter about using one kind of premix for break in vs regular use? like break in with the castor then go to syn for regular riding? I seem to recall something about sticking with one brand to prevent gumming up the works, not sure about that, like I said its been over 35 yrs since I looked into this.
I installed a 2" draw tite receiver on my 92 ford EX, so now I am looking at a hitch hauler. That should make for some interesting driving with that old Ford Explorer.
The important thing is to mix only what you will use right away because modern (pump) fuel has qualities that make it susceptible to problems if it sits for more than a couple of days. If the bike is going to be parked for very long, you must train yourself to drain the carb and the tank, it's not like the old days where you could let it sit for a month and have no problems, especially in a humid climate.
I have been looking around for a club, would be great to meet some folks.
Pit Row
Now back to the handlebars, I have had another mention the handlebars as an issue.
I don't recall back in the day having aftermarket bars, is that something that is just more available now? The guy I got the carrier from mentioned that the steel ones bend easy. I just don't remember this being an issue before. I did some reading up on it though and there is mention of less shock/fatigue transmitted to the rider from alum. Also if I need them is there a 'prefered" brand, I see some on ebay for 45$ that fit the RM400 from 1978.
The old 1 1/8" Pro-Taper bars were excellent, but won't fit your 7/8" triple clamp without adapters. Personally I'm not much of a fan of the Renthal bars.
Holy smokes is it strong, I don't think I will be getting out of 2nd gear much, I cant believe how strong it pulls.
I sure don't recall my 76 RM250 being anywhere like this (of course it was a 250 and not a 400).
I have got to get some boots, my work shoes (old running shoes) do not give any protection from the kick started, OUCH.
I can see lock tite will be my friend, on of the pinch bolts on the upper triple tree vibrated out, and the muffler support gave up pretty quict too.
I got some 110 leaded race gas and MC1 at 20:1
Its running pretty rich which given the shocking power is fine by me
I also found I could pull the carrier off and stow IN the explorer, so if I go to an open field I don't have to worry so much about it getting ripped off.
Next I am just looking for an open trail nearby to do some break in runs. I went around the block but I know the neabours will freak if I keep this up.
I see some trails out just north of champions gate off US 27 heading towards clearmont. If you of you locals now the deal pls let me know. Looks like there is a trail right off a parking lot of a big box store from the aerial map.
At the least, I'd cut it back to 25:1.
That's just my opinion, of course.
RB
I run one strap on each side to the handlebars. They are good quality protaper straps. I also run a strap ocover the swingarm to keep the back from hopping and a short bungee around the tire and rack.
20:1 is super rich. I'm at 40:1 on all of my vintage bikes.
I prob ran 4 oz of fuel thru it so far so I don't think I will have gummed up the works (once around the block).
the manual says not to exceed 15psi.
they are sitting at 0 right now per my cheap tire gauge.
any recommendations on air pump? I assume a simple hand pump like the kind used for basketball inflating since I don't want a lot of pressure.
That said, I've still got the oem air assist set up on my '80 414 Montesa and I run 8 psi. I ran 10 psi back in the day.
I use a regular air chuck, but you gotta be quick about it. I get it a couple lbs over where I want to be, then use the air gauge to bleed it down to the correct setting.
If your bike has been restored, as it appears to be, the fork springs have probably been changed out to firmer springs already.
In that cases, the air valve will be used for bleeding off built up air pressure, as the more modern forks do.
If you're concerned about using too much pressure, buy a hand pump like the mtn bike riders use for airing up Fox air shox.
I've got one of those and it would work well, if I needed it. It'll disconnect without losing air, it's light weight and it's got a built in gauge. Probably get one cheap off Amazon.
You just need to get a couple of rides under your belt. All this stuff will come back to you.
RB
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