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Like someone else mentioned, make sure you didn't spin a bearing in the cases. Common problem with the early CR250M Elsinores. Go to put new bearings in and they just fall into place...
But as with alot of things, you usually get what you pay for.
You could up the class of bearing or maybe look at how you installed them. I always use temperature to install my bearings and have been very successful.
no hammering, or deadblow(not your wife).
Yes, the cold bearing, warm case is a must
Falicon prepared crank. Got it together, and the crank end could be rocked back and forth with no flywheel like the bearings had a million miles on them.
Ordered another set. They were not sloppy like the first set, but had the plastic type ball separators / cage in them.
The engine was entirely fresh. One night, at the races, it was running hard, and then popped / backfired once and it quit. The plastic separator / cage had broken, all the balls rolled together on the ignition side bearing.
It basically threw the engine out of time, hence the back fire. That was after about 20 races on those bearings.
Got a good set of speed rated C3's , some real bearings, and it was very reliable after that. I was running Blendzall.
Had heard rumors that some of the chemicals in that oil were known for attacking seals, plastics.
That may have contributed to the plastic cage failure. Although, with the C3's it never gave lower end trouble again .
Post a reply to: Main Bearing Life