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Merritt Island, FL
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EastFlorida
2/17/2014 12:41pm
2/17/2014 12:41pm
Edited Date/Time
2/23/2014 8:17am
Looking at this to race our vintage class (1974 and earlier) in the FTR Hare Scrambles series. My understanding is that these were detuned CR250's.
1974 MT250 with all lights removed...
Any thoughts/input? How available are parts to keep it going? Newman, I know this isn't a CR, but maybe you have some insights...
1974 MT250 with all lights removed...
Any thoughts/input? How available are parts to keep it going? Newman, I know this isn't a CR, but maybe you have some insights...
Told it is heavy and has a "fiberglass air box"...
Advised to swap out the metal tank with plastic and the rear wheel with a CR wheel to save about 20 lbs of weight!
Anyone know about swapping rear wheels with an early CR? I'm told most parts will swap...
Oil injector and oil tank are gone...
Electrical and battery gone...
Current rear hub is cush drive, want to swap for lighter wheel like the front (model years?)
Swap metal tank for plastic RC Clark tank (to save weight - keep original tank for later resell)
CR inner rotor/PVL??? PLease explain!
Seat Base mod? Please explain!
What else would you do to make a reliable HS machine? The competition is on '74 Huskys.... Fork/shock mods? Told it has Progressive shocks, fork seals don't leak, don't know anything more yet... Someone did a restoration before the current owner bought the bike.
Thanks!
The Shop
The MR was a little more dirt oriented. Basically it was a off road CR
I think that MT is a cool bike East Florida. I don't think you would go wrong if you got that for Vintage Hare Scramble. How many events do they run in Florida per season? Being in Florida do they get whooped out?
Your seat base is probably steel and hinged for access to the battery and suck. A 73-74 CR250 seat pan is junk, a thin layer of plastic sandwiched between two pieces of aluminum about the thickness of aluminum foil. And about the same strength. The 75-76 CR250 seat base is a real plastic base. Make some brackets and live happily ever after. If it fits the frame too wide like it did my 74 CR250, the base can be heated with a heat gun and reshaped with a set of wide vise grip welding/sheetmetal pliers. I ended up getting a better shaped seat foam and cover from Charlie Richardson at CR Racing. It's sweet, no more sacked out sway back mule seat.
On the ignition, pull the cover off and see if it still has a huge external flywheel / generator for the lighting system. Getting rid of all that excess weight and points/condensor and switching over to a lightweight CDI system will get you a dependable spark and faster rev. Good stuff. You can add flywheel weights as necessary.
If you decide to go with it I see no reason that you would be disappointed in it or especially with the honesty of the owner. Plus it is right down the interstate from you!
http://tampa.craigslist.org/hdo/mcy/4330650112.html
The shocks appear chrome. I've never ridden any shocks I like that had chrome springs and body.
It has CR bones. Looks super clean.I'm sure with a few hundred you could lose a few pounds and bolt on some bark.
What bikes would you be competing against?
The #1 rider is on a Husky! The others are riding a mix of Bultacos, Yamaha DT's and a few MX models...
The ignition swap mention in earlier posts seem to be a big step in the
right direction, the only hare scrambles I've ridden needed some top speed
in a couple areas-you would be a better judge on that...........
2200 is a lot . I know it might have cost that to build it. But there are other vintage MX bikes that hold value better than a raced out MT. It's a nice bike. If its worth it to you than it's worth it. If he had the title and lights to pit it back to a dual sport bike the price sounds better
Post a reply to: Is this a good Vintage buy for Hare Scrambles?