93 Cr250 resto

Schwanz22
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329
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Roanoke, TX US
Edited Date/Time 9/3/2015 3:41pm
Well... the day has finally come! I have been stock piling parts, and got a lot of good pointers from you guys, time to post my restore! ! It won't be quite as extensive as dogger's builds, but I'm pumped either way, and this will be a rider!! I bought a harbor freight blast cabinet and have been glass bead blasting all of the rusted or damaged parts and it's been working great at getting the old oxidation off the parts. I'll post a lot of pics as I go along
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Schwanz22
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329
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1/13/2014
Location
Roanoke, TX US
4/22/2014 2:06am
Frame back from powder coating

New plastic and graphics



Some of the carnage... check out these chain rollers...


4/22/2014 7:32am
Good progress! Ive never seen a used bike with decent chain rollers lol. Most folks think theyre a "non replaceable" part.
4/22/2014 8:39am
Great start,
I have got the same bike here in Italy and I will fully restore it after I am finishing my 1985 YZ490..
Post other pics as u can buddy!

The Shop

4/22/2014 11:14am
Looking good! The frame looks great, the rollers not so much...
I also went on the hunt for a Cr250 after seeing the works of Dogger and McFan. I hear you when you say not as extensive, as much as Id like to, parts are hard to come by. (especially in South Africa)
Schwanz22
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Roanoke, TX US
4/22/2014 6:15pm
I've done a lot today, taking a quick dinner break then I'm back at it!! What I have so far.

Swing arm rebuilt




Starting to look like a dirt bike again!! Getting excited!!





4/22/2014 11:47pm
Very nice! Are you soda blasting parts? I also have scratches on my swingarm, not sure whether to polish them out and then try reproduce the factory lines on the swingarm again.
Schwanz22
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Roanoke, TX US
4/23/2014 12:25am
I'm glass bead blasting them. It's like soda being that it's good on soft metals, but the nice thing with the glass is it doesn't get all dusty while your blasting so you can see, and you don't have to wash your parts afterwards. Just wipe them down and your done. Works great so far!!! I sanded my swing arm then used steel wool on it to create the factory lines. Came out good I think.
Bono480
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112
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11/10/2013
Location
AU
4/23/2014 8:52am
Hey man that's looking sweet!!! Can you please send me some info on the glass washer pls? like price, where you got it, etc. Im nearly finished my mc replica and already planning my next build, just want to get a bit better set up this time.

Thanks

Looking forward to more pictures!
Schwanz22
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4/23/2014 10:03am
Bono it's the 40lbs blast cabinet from harbor freight. It sells for $199, but it was on sale for $179 and I had a 25% off coupon so I paid $140. Hope that helps.
Bono480
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4/23/2014 10:35am
Schwanz22 wrote:
Bono it's the 40lbs blast cabinet from harbor freight. It sells for $199, but it was on sale for $179 and I had a 25% off...
Bono it's the 40lbs blast cabinet from harbor freight. It sells for $199, but it was on sale for $179 and I had a 25% off coupon so I paid $140. Hope that helps.
Yep thanks mate
BM255
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Auckland NZ
4/24/2014 1:16am
Hey Schwanz, that looks awesome man!
The frame and swingarm look brilliant.
Are you considering anodizing the swingarm? Like you I polished my swingarm and used steel wool to get the brushed factory look. I then anodized it, only cost $45 and it keeps it looking mint.
RyanLester761
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1133
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Location
El Dorado Hills, CA US
4/24/2014 6:10pm
Schwanz22 wrote:
Bono it's the 40lbs blast cabinet from harbor freight. It sells for $199, but it was on sale for $179 and I had a 25% off...
Bono it's the 40lbs blast cabinet from harbor freight. It sells for $199, but it was on sale for $179 and I had a 25% off coupon so I paid $140. Hope that helps.
Yeah, I have the same blast cabinet. It works good besides the fogging inside and leaking outside. I just cleaned it out. The dust was pretty thick on top of the glass light bulb cover, causing the light to apear dim. It's better now. I also replaced the plastic covers on the light cover and the top viewing cover. I just duct taped the seams around the light cover and that helped the spilling out a bit.

Do you have a vacuum system set up on yours? How can I eliminate the dust inside (and outside) a bit?
Schwanz22
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4/25/2014 4:32am Edited Date/Time 4/25/2014 4:35am
Ryan - I'm using glad beads right now so i don't even turn on my shop vac. I bought one but the glass doesn't get all dusty so I haven't had to use it. Mine leaks a little bit but I hit all the joints with clear silicone and that helped a lot. I'll go back and hit it again here in a bit now that I've found a couple of spots that are leaking, but so far so good!!
Schwanz22
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4/25/2014 4:34am
BM255 wrote:
Hey Schwanz, that looks awesome man! The frame and swingarm look brilliant. Are you considering anodizing the swingarm? Like you I polished my swingarm and used...
Hey Schwanz, that looks awesome man!
The frame and swingarm look brilliant.
Are you considering anodizing the swingarm? Like you I polished my swingarm and used steel wool to get the brushed factory look. I then anodized it, only cost $45 and it keeps it looking mint.
I haven't thought about anodizing it but I doubt I will cause the swing arm is pretty beat up in places.. it looks pretty good now but it's not mint. I bet yours looks sick though!
RyanLester761
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4/25/2014 6:10am
Hey Schwanz, good to know about the clear silicone. Maybe I can try that. I am using glass beads too and it gets pretty dusty. Maybe mine has foreign material mixed in- like aluminum and paint remanence. I will just deal with it until I can replace the beads.

Nice bike so far. I would definitely rub out the scratches in the swingarm, then follow up with a grain to get that factory look. I used a 1/4 sheet palm sander (dewalt is the best brand) on my swingarm to get out the scratches. Mine will be painted because it's a Kawasaki. I would suggest using a sort of block with sandpaper to get the grain back. Make sure and put your hand/fingers/thumb on the edge to help guide your sanding grain perfectly strait. Scotch bright or steel wool might be easier for the finish. I recently did the palm sander and scotch brite process on a 99 rm125 and it turned out awesome.

Here is my kx swingarm primered...
notme
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CA
4/26/2014 11:47am
Schwanz22 wrote:
Ryan - I'm using glad beads right now so i don't even turn on my shop vac. I bought one but the glass doesn't get all...
Ryan - I'm using glad beads right now so i don't even turn on my shop vac. I bought one but the glass doesn't get all dusty so I haven't had to use it. Mine leaks a little bit but I hit all the joints with clear silicone and that helped a lot. I'll go back and hit it again here in a bit now that I've found a couple of spots that are leaking, but so far so good!!
Schwanz, what grade of glass beads do you use? I like how soda cleans aluminum to the oem look but I cant stand the mess. I was at my local tool store and looked at some glass beads, the finest grade was a #7, it was super fine, like flour. Im tempted to try it, to get similar results of soda without removing any metal. I might ask them for a sample to try out. Its $45 a bag.

thanks
Schwanz22
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4/26/2014 5:18pm
Hey Schwanz, good to know about the clear silicone. Maybe I can try that. I am using glass beads too and it gets pretty dusty. Maybe...
Hey Schwanz, good to know about the clear silicone. Maybe I can try that. I am using glass beads too and it gets pretty dusty. Maybe mine has foreign material mixed in- like aluminum and paint remanence. I will just deal with it until I can replace the beads.

Nice bike so far. I would definitely rub out the scratches in the swingarm, then follow up with a grain to get that factory look. I used a 1/4 sheet palm sander (dewalt is the best brand) on my swingarm to get out the scratches. Mine will be painted because it's a Kawasaki. I would suggest using a sort of block with sandpaper to get the grain back. Make sure and put your hand/fingers/thumb on the edge to help guide your sanding grain perfectly strait. Scotch bright or steel wool might be easier for the finish. I recently did the palm sander and scotch brite process on a 99 rm125 and it turned out awesome.

Here is my kx swingarm primered...
I used my Makita palm sander and then finished with coarse steel wool, then finally with fine steel wool. Some of the scratches are way to big to get out, but I'm happy with how it came out. It's good enough for me
Schwanz22
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Roanoke, TX US
4/26/2014 5:20pm
Schwanz22 wrote:
Ryan - I'm using glad beads right now so i don't even turn on my shop vac. I bought one but the glass doesn't get all...
Ryan - I'm using glad beads right now so i don't even turn on my shop vac. I bought one but the glass doesn't get all dusty so I haven't had to use it. Mine leaks a little bit but I hit all the joints with clear silicone and that helped a lot. I'll go back and hit it again here in a bit now that I've found a couple of spots that are leaking, but so far so good!!
notme wrote:
Schwanz, what grade of glass beads do you use? I like how soda cleans aluminum to the oem look but I cant stand the mess. I...
Schwanz, what grade of glass beads do you use? I like how soda cleans aluminum to the oem look but I cant stand the mess. I was at my local tool store and looked at some glass beads, the finest grade was a #7, it was super fine, like flour. Im tempted to try it, to get similar results of soda without removing any metal. I might ask them for a sample to try out. Its $45 a bag.

thanks
I'm using 80 grit glass beads right now. This is my first time ever using a blast cabinet so I have no experience other than what I'm doing right now haha. I've herd you can use soda in these cabinets also with a couple of small mods. I may try that some time, but for now the glass is doing a great job. I'll post some before and after pics later. Still have to blast some shock parts :-)
RyanLester761
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El Dorado Hills, CA US
4/27/2014 8:16am
Good stuff man. I actually used some body filler to fill in a couple big dents on the kx swingarm... a little off topic but if you ever paint a swingarm, it will work. I DO prefer the raw aluminum look if possible though!
Oh, and I like the dewalt palm sander because it doesn't seem to jump around as much. I was just suggesting that brand if you were needing to buy one. Smile
Schwanz22
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Roanoke, TX US
4/27/2014 3:21pm
Thanks Ryan, I'm a big fan of Dewalt tools! I'm also starting to like Rigid a lot cause of there lifetime warranty!
MaxPower
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4/28/2014 1:37am
Schwanz22 wrote:
Thanks Ryan, I'm a big fan of Dewalt tools! I'm also starting to like Rigid a lot cause of there lifetime warranty!
Every Ridgid tool I have owned has broke. I rather buy something with no warrantee that will work when I need it
4/28/2014 2:11am
Come on Schwanz, you're slacking here - did you do some work on your bike this weekend or what? Smile
Schwanz22
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4/28/2014 6:14am
OnedayWhip wrote:
Come on Schwanz, you're slacking here - did you do some work on your bike this weekend or what? Smile
Haha a little, I'm stuck on the locked up rear brake pin... I'll get a bunch done this week though!!
Schwanz22
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329
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Roanoke, TX US
4/28/2014 6:21am
New footpegs and shift lever!


New MX52 rear mounted on a 19" rim with one of the new sprokets.


Chassis as it sits so far. New CRF250R forks.
barkhard696
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Houston, TX US
4/28/2014 6:22am
>I'm stuck on the locked up rear brake pin

Have you thought about using a 97-99 CR250 rear brake carrier? The line, caliper etc are the same, but you can run the much bigger rear rotor, which I believe Honda used through maybe '08? This is a popular swap on the '95-'96 bikes, and should be even easier with the narrower swingarm of the '93 -- more clearance for the banjo bolt. Just an idea if you're already planning on redoing your brakes, I did this to my '95 and will to my '93 also.
Schwanz22
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Roanoke, TX US
4/28/2014 6:22am
Schwanz22 wrote:
Thanks Ryan, I'm a big fan of Dewalt tools! I'm also starting to like Rigid a lot cause of there lifetime warranty!
MaxPower wrote:
Every Ridgid tool I have owned has broke. I rather buy something with no warrantee that will work when I need it
Good point, thanks for the info.
Schwanz22
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Roanoke, TX US
4/28/2014 6:26am
>I'm stuck on the locked up rear brake pin Have you thought about using a 97-99 CR250 rear brake carrier? The line, caliper etc are the...
>I'm stuck on the locked up rear brake pin

Have you thought about using a 97-99 CR250 rear brake carrier? The line, caliper etc are the same, but you can run the much bigger rear rotor, which I believe Honda used through maybe '08? This is a popular swap on the '95-'96 bikes, and should be even easier with the narrower swingarm of the '93 -- more clearance for the banjo bolt. Just an idea if you're already planning on redoing your brakes, I did this to my '95 and will to my '93 also.
Nice!! I didn't know about that! I was wondering what I could swap to and if there was something better that's just plug and play. I'll look into that for sure, thanks barkhard696! !
notme
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CA
4/28/2014 7:45am
That was quick! I wonder how it would work with my DEP pipe I have coming.

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