86/89 cr250 right crank case cover swap question...

Jibrok1
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Jibrok1
Edited Date/Time 3/16/2015 5:14pm
Once I removed my crank case cover, I noticed the powervalve actuator arm seems to pivot rather easily. Is this normal? I'm not a mechanic, but it seems like there'd be more resistance. Also, when reinstalling the cover, should the arm be flush with the case or outward towards the right? Do I simply align the water pump gear and press the cover back on, or is there something else the needs to be done. Also... When removing th cover, the washer in the photo dropped from someplace. I am assuming it was on the kickstart spindle???



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DynoDan22
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DynoDan22 3/9/2015 7:18am
3/9/2015 7:18am
The washer you found does go on the kick start spindle. It slides over the kick shaft and rests against the lick shaft bushing. It is then sandwiched between the clutch cover. I always put a little dab of assembly lube upon assembly to keep it from falling out. The power valve actuator rod should rotate freely without any resistance. This is normal. The easiest way to install the clutch cover is to remove the water pump cover and wiggle the impeller to align the gear mesh. If you aren't replacing the waterpump cover gaskets, you can rock the rear wheel back and forth with the bike in 5th gear to align the gear mesh between the primary gear/waterpump shaft/powervalve governor. Just take it slow and be patient. The powervalve actuator rod assembly is shown in its proper orientation with the lower arm facing forward. I hope this helps.
Jibrok1
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Jibrok1 3/9/2015 7:43am
3/9/2015 7:43am
That's helps tremdously! Thanks, Dyno!
Jibrok1
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Jibrok1 3/9/2015 9:34am
3/9/2015 9:34am
Thanks, Barkhard. If in understanding the linked thread, as I'm not doing the top end, I should not have any issues with the HPP system as now.

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Jibrok1
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Jibrok1 3/9/2015 5:08pm
3/9/2015 5:08pm
DynoDan22 wrote:
The washer you found does go on the kick start spindle. It slides over the kick shaft and rests against the lick shaft bushing. It is...
The washer you found does go on the kick start spindle. It slides over the kick shaft and rests against the lick shaft bushing. It is then sandwiched between the clutch cover. I always put a little dab of assembly lube upon assembly to keep it from falling out. The power valve actuator rod should rotate freely without any resistance. This is normal. The easiest way to install the clutch cover is to remove the water pump cover and wiggle the impeller to align the gear mesh. If you aren't replacing the waterpump cover gaskets, you can rock the rear wheel back and forth with the bike in 5th gear to align the gear mesh between the primary gear/waterpump shaft/powervalve governor. Just take it slow and be patient. The powervalve actuator rod assembly is shown in its proper orientation with the lower arm facing forward. I hope this helps.
Hmmm... Haven't tried the install yet, but just noticed the 89 governed/HPP actuator connector is remarkably different than the 86. Will I require this part?

Jibrok1
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Jibrok1 3/11/2015 4:24pm
3/11/2015 4:24pm
Thanks, FTE! As it's an amazing 55 degrees F in Michigan tonight, I'm going to hit the garage and try to wrap this up tonight!
CamP
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CamP 3/12/2015 8:17am
3/12/2015 8:17am Edited Date/Time 3/12/2015 8:20am
Use your original 86 governor parts.

You also need to chamfer the edge of the spring pocket to prevent interference as the governor compresses.

Grind the area marked in red until the spring has about 1mm of clearance as the assembled governor is compressed with your hands through it's arch. if you compare the 86 cover to the 89 cover, you will see the 86 has more clearance in this area.

barkhard696
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barkhard696 3/16/2015 6:49am
3/16/2015 6:49am
I'd heard about that mod -- thanks for the detailed info, Cam! Need to do to my '87 with the '89 cover.
DynoDan22
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DynoDan22 3/16/2015 5:14pm
3/16/2015 5:14pm
While doing th '89 side cover conversion, if you are using the '86 or '87 governor assembly (including spring and spring cup) your have to grind the lip in the spring hole of the new '89 side cover down 3.5mm to get the correct power valve spring preload. If you don't do this, the valve will open much later and change the power band. I made sure to do this on my '87 I restored. It makes a big difference. So basically insert the governor spring with the long stamped spring cup into the new '89 cover. Grind the lip that it bottoms out on down 3.5mm. Most people probably don't care about the preload difference but if you want it to open at the correct time, you have to do this.
mgtkr1
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mgtkr1 11/12/2019 4:24pm
11/12/2019 4:24pm
DynoDan22 wrote:
While doing th '89 side cover conversion, if you are using the '86 or '87 governor assembly (including spring and spring cup) your have to grind...
While doing th '89 side cover conversion, if you are using the '86 or '87 governor assembly (including spring and spring cup) your have to grind the lip in the spring hole of the new '89 side cover down 3.5mm to get the correct power valve spring preload. If you don't do this, the valve will open much later and change the power band. I made sure to do this on my '87 I restored. It makes a big difference. So basically insert the governor spring with the long stamped spring cup into the new '89 cover. Grind the lip that it bottoms out on down 3.5mm. Most people probably don't care about the preload difference but if you want it to open at the correct time, you have to do this.
would i be right in thinking removing the material from the step down to the face (where the threaded boss finishes) would give the same preload as the 86/87 casing? or do you mean remove 3.5mm from the step downward? 3.5 mm seems only very small when i compare where the spring sits between the two casings

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