Upgrade to enjoy this feature!
Vital MX fantasy is free to play, but paid users have great benefits. Paid member benefits:
- View and download rider stats
- Pick trends
- Create a private league
- And more!
Only $10 for all 2024 SX, MX, and SMX series (regularly $30).
Anyway the first thing will be getting the frame Powder coated, I use a good one through work regularly, so a carton of beer will see it done for me.
A few questions though, if you could give me some advice.
Did you strip the old paint off before sending it to your coaters, or just got them to blast the paint off?
Do you think blasting the frame will be too harsh?
Did you use any type of rust treatment?
I know you said you welded up a couple of holes, did you do anything else special to the frame before coating? Pegs and rear brake pedal mounts, tapping of threads etc?
Sorry mate, don’t mean to make a pest of myself, I’m just keen to do the job right is all, this bike is a pile of poo at the moment, but I already love it more than my 250f.
Cheers Jim
Yes
>Would that be what I'd need for my '96 "Showtime" replica?
I got my two front numberplates from the UK. These are indeed very close replicas of the HRC numberplate-- in some respects even closer than the Plasticwerks version (which itself was a reproduction).
I'd buy these while they are still available. They were done in a limited run and are very, very good.
No, actually I've owned a bunch of Clarke tanks and have had no problems whatsoever with them for Hondas. Frankly I think they are a better choice than using a Honda OEM on a rider, since the OEM parts are drying up (and will appreciate in value), whereas, the Clarke tanks are still being made (so go ahead and thrash on them as much as you want).
The only difference is that the Clarke tanks don't have the Honda wing on the top of the tank. Otherwise, fit and functionality are completely the same as OEM. Since these MC replicas use graphics that cover most of the visible part of the tank, using Honda OEM really's just an exercise in how much money you're willing to spend.
I've used Clarke on my Yamaha IT restos (an '86 IT200 and an '83 IT250), yes, sometimes the tanks are smaller than stock. But with the Honda tanks, I've never heard of any issues, and I've had probably six of the Clarkes for various CR resto projects.
Do you think blasting the frame will be too harsh?
Did you use any type of rust treatment?
I've only used powdercoaters here in the US through friends. The coater typically includes media treatment as part of the price (which I think also answers #2).
I believe the frame metal has to be blasted for the powdercoating to adhere properly, although removing the paint completely is also done for an even finish.
Some people do their own media blasting and then strengthen the factory welds. I believe this is what DJ is planning as part of his latest '96 CR project.
The Shop
You'll need to speak to your specific powder coater about he wants the frame prepped. Mine wanted it freshly blasted with no treatments on the frame. In other words they wanted the metal 'raw'. This sounds easy except the powder coater I used wouldn't arrange blasting so I had to find a blaster who would drop it around to the powder coaters straight after blasting it.
Blasting won't be too harsh on the frame as long as the guy doing the work knows what he's doing. Obviously they use different grades of media and they will have a good idea which grade to use so that they don't damage the frame. Again, a few phone calls between your powder coater and blaster should get things sorted.
The only other prep work I did was to put old bolts in all the threads and block the steering stem holes. Use old bolts because you won't get the powder coating off them when it's finished. If you havn't got one, buy a Dremel. This will become your new best freind when removing the old bolts and removing the powder coat from parts of the frame like where the subframe slots in to the main frame, footpeg mounts, etc. When removing the old bolts I (very carefully) ran the dremel around the threads where they met the frame. Alternatively, use longer than normal bolts and put tape around the threads where they 'meet' the frame if that makes sense. After coating, just unwind the tape and the bolts come straight out no problem.
Preparation is key to a good finished product
And you're not making a pest of yourself. That's what this part of the forum and threads like these are all about. Happy to help.
I was onto putting old screws into the threads, I know what you are saying about not tape or cutting the coat before removing the screws, it is so the coating doesn't tear when you undo them.
What did you use to block the head stem tube?
I still have the bearing races in mine, they had only just been replaced when I bought the bike and I don't want to ruin them when removing them.
Thanks for your help, when do we get to see your finished product?
I'm in a dilemma now with what to do with that NOS tank.
I know the size and width are right just need to check alignment. Have done a bit of a search, but can't find anything conclusive and I reckon i will get a decent set of 2nd hand late model Silver rims without to much trouble.
Cheers Jim
Pit Row
I doubt they would fit without changing spacers and axles, but I could be wrong.
Rear wheel: rear disc on the 02 is too big. Honda went to a larger diameter disc in '97. Also the bearings and spacers will need to be changed. Honda went to a larger diameter rear axle in 2000. So your 02 wheel will fit with 96 bearings, spacers, axle and rear disc.
Front wheel: your 02 front wheel will fit straight in but you will need to use a 96 axle and l/h wheel spacer in your 96 forks.
This info is correct to the best of my knowledge. If anyone (DJ, James, Cam) know any different, please advise.
Anyone know if you can strip the chrome of a pipe? I have a cherry Bills pipee for my '97 125 and would love to make it bare steel. Anyone like Newman or MCfan have related experiences? Lol.
The platinum finish can be stripped. Check out nine1seven's thread on his '87 CR250 rebuild and shoot him a message if you need to. This was originally a platinum pipe
In these next images you can see the 'stoppers' that Emig incorporates into the bottom clamp.
just saw this come in on twitter.
http://vurbmoto.com/vurbagram/
all of a sudden its cool to do this...ahead of the curve my friend.
I've placed one order with powersports, but their prices went up a little in the last 2 weeks, still cheap but not as good as they were.
I'm thinking about doing a full OEM engine rebuild on my 96, so anything I can save will help.
PM me if you like.
Thanks Jim
Post a reply to: 1996 CR250 McGrath Replica Rebuild