Posts
478
Joined
12/15/2013
Location
GB
Edited Date/Time
5/28/2017 12:19pm
Building a retro 134 for hare and hounds racing over here in the UK.
It's being built to look like Johnson's/Stanton's '90 CR250, as that's my favourite looking retro honda. I prefer riding a 150 or 200 however, so I'm building the bike round a '90 cr125 that I've kept around since childhood.
(Which since transpires to have one of the very first 91 frames according to the number, but had full '90 subframe, seat, plastics, etc.)
Have a very tidy 250 tank and NOS rad panels and decals for it to achieve the look I want.
I have just completed the mock-up with the 91 rear end and seat, and it all looks good.
I will be building a supercross type motor for it, and will also cheat by using modern forks, but make sure I have an original look.
Have an '08 crf250 front end in it, and have lighter crf250 wheels in both ends too (rear on custom reducer spacers and 20mm spindle)
Currently getting on with the motor build, but will add pics as it all goes back together for those who are interested.
It definitely won't be a bike for the purists, but should be reasonably competitive at club level, with the whole idea of the build being to upset riders on new machinery with a near 25 year old bike.
It's being built to look like Johnson's/Stanton's '90 CR250, as that's my favourite looking retro honda. I prefer riding a 150 or 200 however, so I'm building the bike round a '90 cr125 that I've kept around since childhood.
(Which since transpires to have one of the very first 91 frames according to the number, but had full '90 subframe, seat, plastics, etc.)
Have a very tidy 250 tank and NOS rad panels and decals for it to achieve the look I want.
I have just completed the mock-up with the 91 rear end and seat, and it all looks good.
I will be building a supercross type motor for it, and will also cheat by using modern forks, but make sure I have an original look.
Have an '08 crf250 front end in it, and have lighter crf250 wheels in both ends too (rear on custom reducer spacers and 20mm spindle)
Currently getting on with the motor build, but will add pics as it all goes back together for those who are interested.
It definitely won't be a bike for the purists, but should be reasonably competitive at club level, with the whole idea of the build being to upset riders on new machinery with a near 25 year old bike.
I previously had a '97 tail on this bike, so needed to convert the frame back to take the '91 subframe again.
The old boy knocked up some spacers on his lathe and zipped it back together for me.
Then slugged the damaged '91 subframe leg with a bit of ERW from stock, and used a portion of leg from the '97 frame as a repair piece.
Modded the lockstops to suit the twin cartridge CRF250 front end I have waiting (not pictured).
Then added in two brace bars to carry the alloy skid plate I'll make it for hare and hounds. They are in square, just the picture makes them looks pissed.
Used his big blowtorch to heat the cases so I could get the new main bearings in while I was there.
All this means I can get clean the frame and subframe, and get them off for powdercoat next week, and commence the motor build.
The Shop
I made up a steering stop extension, so that I can always trim it back off to return the frame to standard if I decide to go back to OE forks (I've had this bike 14 years now)
The front plate has to have the bottom end trimmed slightly to allow a suitable position to tap a thread into the front face of the top yoke.
I had to slightly enlarge the hole in the plate for the brake line guide to make everything neat.
The whole wheel/spindle/brake/fork setup is 2008 CRF250R.
Great build you have going there!
The look of Stanton/Johnson's 90's bikes are just killer. Cant wait to see this one done!
I'll end up making the little brother to your bike at this rate, but they do say that 'imitation is the sincerest form of flattery'
Putting the motor together tonight, as I just got the barrell back from the platers. It has a metal/ceramic plating, which is supposed to make it do a billion rpm and make a trillion horsepower or something.
Building the motor tonight, so will hopefully be a big step nearer to having a whole bike by the weekend.
It's a mitaka billet item and is hard anodised.
1) drill rivets from backplate and disassemble basket.
2) disassemble old basket with a hammer and a hacksaw to make gear removal a piece of piss.
3) lube up and press gear into new basket. I used some big washers and a spring compressor to ensure it pulled in square. I also chamfered the inner edges of the tines on the basket to remove the sharp edges. According to Steve at Phil Denton Engineering this should stop the sharp edge breaking the ears off the clutch plates.
4) re-install cush drive and backing plate (have to tap 8 fuggin' holes)
5) throw it at the motor and hope it sticks.
Finished buttoning the cases up tonight.
Clutch and kicker went back together Friday night with new bolts, springs, and a good 2nd hand kickstart idle gear from a '99 as mine had slight wear.
Also new water pump oil and water seals, and new impeller shaft and water pump plate.
Tonight I re-profiled the '99 power valves to suit the big-bore cylinder.
- the '98/'99 power valves have a differ recent design which sacrifices a little top end for driveability due to a different profile. They can be retro-fitted back to the first HPP 125 motors of 1990.
My main reason for using these is that if a retaining clip breaks or vibrates free, they don't fall into the cylinder, which happened to me just after I bought the bike all those years ago.
New barrell studs and nuts, and everything fitted up.
X-dimension (piston to deck) is currently 0.6mm.
Next job will be to measure the squish, and have the head skimmed and cut to suit.
Changed my mind as I was building it, and built a motor to rev instead of trying for a tractor.
Spec is:
'91 motor with:
'92 barrell
56mm (gives 134cc) Wiseco pro-lite piston (flat top)
OE Honda Rod/ Crank
All OE Honda bearings/seals/spacers
'92 head (modified) 8:1 Dynamic compression ratio, 0.8mm squish, 40% squish area.
'99 power valves and guides (re-ground to suit overbore)
Mitaka billet clutch basket.
Also switched from plastic, to an alu ignition cover, but have painted it black, and left the lettering black so it looks like the original plastic part.
Gratuitous up-port shot.
I matched the exhaust port to the flange and removed any casting marks back before the barrell was plated. As standard, there is a 1mm mis-match.
Motor in the frame, and used DEP spannie and silencer on loose to test fit.
Motor is sweet, and has done its first heat cycle.
Wearing its original shock at the moment, but have rebuilt a '95 for it with a Ti Yamaha spring. Collect that Wednesday morning for some afternoon practice and bike set-up.
Also have an ohlins on its way.
Racing a hare and hounds with it next Sunday, so will ensure the GoPro is running for you guys.
Love the looks of these 90 Hondas!
What year Yamaha Ti spring fits these old Honda shocks?
Fits the KYB units. Reckon it's this:
http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-1C3-22212-30-00.html
(Basically all the YZ(F)'s from '06 to '11)
Pit Row
I'll be looking for something like that then
Look fwd to the GoPro vid!
I'll bet it will be a blast to ride and Props to you for riding it!
Also KTM and TM guards will fit straight on the USD's.
KTM stuff used to be available in a lighter grey too for the LC4 640's.
The first time I've ever ridden it, and it's really good to start with.
A few tweaks and it could be really great.
I have some GoPro footage to upload, so I'll post a link up later.
Unfortunately youtube's destroyed the quality and chopped the sides off for some reason.
The turns were loose and sandy with loose berms for the most part, and the track was really whooped out in a lot of places.
The usual head shake you get with a '91 is mostly gone, and what it has left never builds to the level where it becomes uncontrollable.
The proof of the pudding is that after a 3 hour race on a rough circuit, I have no blisters.
When my ktm was stock, my hands used were shredded after 3 hours on the same circuit.
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