1989 kx 250 tear down / build finished! I"m a Tool...

nelly001
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nelly001 10/20/2017 1:32pm
10/20/2017 1:32pm
while hunting for parts for my 1988 kx 250 rebuild i found a guy in australia who remakes the powervalver for the 88 89 if anyboby needs some very reasonable at 160 australian dollers i can find the info again if anyone is interested.i got the 89 cylinder in the end newly chromed with piston kit
Markee
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Markee 10/21/2017 8:56am
10/21/2017 8:56am
Looks awesome sandman!

Where did you send our hardware? Also, what powder code did you go with RAL 6018?
sandman768
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sandman768 10/21/2017 1:01pm
10/21/2017 1:01pm
Markee wrote:
Looks awesome sandman!

Where did you send our hardware? Also, what powder code did you go with RAL 6018?
Thanks Markee, My powdercoat shop does so many bikes, he knew the correct KX green by memory...I did not record the actual code....The plating shop I use is located in Amstardam N.Y. The shop name is Rayco. I stumbled upon them by accident, as I did not want to mail my parts to be plated if I did not have to. They have done 4-5 batches for me in the last few years, sometimes it gets done quickly, sometimes I have to stay on them. Not a money maker for them..I do all my own prep work before plating, degrease, bead/sandblast, wire wheel ect. The better the prep, the better the finished product.
Markee
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Markee 10/21/2017 1:43pm
10/21/2017 1:43pm
Markee wrote:
Looks awesome sandman!

Where did you send our hardware? Also, what powder code did you go with RAL 6018?
sandman768 wrote:
Thanks Markee, My powdercoat shop does so many bikes, he knew the correct KX green by memory...I did not record the actual code....The plating shop I...
Thanks Markee, My powdercoat shop does so many bikes, he knew the correct KX green by memory...I did not record the actual code....The plating shop I use is located in Amstardam N.Y. The shop name is Rayco. I stumbled upon them by accident, as I did not want to mail my parts to be plated if I did not have to. They have done 4-5 batches for me in the last few years, sometimes it gets done quickly, sometimes I have to stay on them. Not a money maker for them..I do all my own prep work before plating, degrease, bead/sandblast, wire wheel ect. The better the prep, the better the finished product.
Right on thanks.

I've been working with my tank, sanding buffing, sanding buffing. From the photos your tanks looks pretty good. What process you using?

The Shop

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sandman768
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sandman768 10/21/2017 4:57pm
10/21/2017 4:57pm
Smooth out any deep gouges or digs the best You can with a razor blade, then just wet sand with soapy water, like dawn dish soap, the soap helps keep the sandpaper clean as you sand. There is no ez method to bringing back a faded dull plastic tank, it's just hrs of wet sanding, if the tank is really rough start with 220 grit to 400 to 600 to 800...all the way up to 1500-2000 grit....by the time you get to 1500-2000 grit it will almost start to shine without polishing...I used novus polishing compound but really not needed, a good car wax or lite buffing compound will bring up a shine. I hand buff using an cotton t shirt, I"m working on an old plastic Suzuki tank right now, it was pretty rough, I have about 4 hrs into sanding it, still have a few more hrs to go! It takes time...
Markee
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Markee 10/22/2017 5:05am
10/22/2017 5:05am
sandman768 wrote:
Smooth out any deep gouges or digs the best You can with a razor blade, then just wet sand with soapy water, like dawn dish soap...
Smooth out any deep gouges or digs the best You can with a razor blade, then just wet sand with soapy water, like dawn dish soap, the soap helps keep the sandpaper clean as you sand. There is no ez method to bringing back a faded dull plastic tank, it's just hrs of wet sanding, if the tank is really rough start with 220 grit to 400 to 600 to 800...all the way up to 1500-2000 grit....by the time you get to 1500-2000 grit it will almost start to shine without polishing...I used novus polishing compound but really not needed, a good car wax or lite buffing compound will bring up a shine. I hand buff using an cotton t shirt, I"m working on an old plastic Suzuki tank right now, it was pretty rough, I have about 4 hrs into sanding it, still have a few more hrs to go! It takes time...
That's what I've been doing, put about 2 hours in. The previous owner started the process with it looks to be 180 grit Dry I've been sanding and sanding, buff to see where i'm at and it shines pretty good, but you can still see some of the 180 cuts, so I start over.

Would love to get a 89 250 tank and put this effort into for my 500, but everyone wants to much $
Kidkawie
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Kidkawie 10/23/2017 7:16am
10/23/2017 7:16am
Nice job! Glad you found the cause of the overheating problem. I may or may not have left towels in the airbox before. Smile And right-on what Nelly001 posted about the power valves, looks like real nice work and he's open to other models but you have to send him old valves for measuring.
123-rit
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123-rit 10/24/2017 7:27am
10/24/2017 7:27am
Great job on the build... you may have answered this already I didn't have time to read the entire thread ... I was wondering what brand and color powder you used on your frame?
kibby
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kibby 11/14/2017 9:44pm
11/14/2017 9:44pm
Phenomenal work, bike looks so good!
You’ve set the bar very high sir , I can only aspire to get near your results with this 125 I picked up recently .

sandman768
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sandman768 11/15/2017 4:56am
11/15/2017 4:56am
kibby wrote:
Phenomenal work, bike looks so good! You’ve set the bar very high sir , I can only aspire to get near your results with this 125...
Phenomenal work, bike looks so good!
You’ve set the bar very high sir , I can only aspire to get near your results with this 125 I picked up recently .

Kibby, that bike looks waaayyyy better than the p.o.s. I started with.....keep us posted on your build!
sandman768
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sandman768 11/15/2017 5:09am
11/15/2017 5:09am
sandman768 wrote:
Smooth out any deep gouges or digs the best You can with a razor blade, then just wet sand with soapy water, like dawn dish soap...
Smooth out any deep gouges or digs the best You can with a razor blade, then just wet sand with soapy water, like dawn dish soap, the soap helps keep the sandpaper clean as you sand. There is no ez method to bringing back a faded dull plastic tank, it's just hrs of wet sanding, if the tank is really rough start with 220 grit to 400 to 600 to 800...all the way up to 1500-2000 grit....by the time you get to 1500-2000 grit it will almost start to shine without polishing...I used novus polishing compound but really not needed, a good car wax or lite buffing compound will bring up a shine. I hand buff using an cotton t shirt, I"m working on an old plastic Suzuki tank right now, it was pretty rough, I have about 4 hrs into sanding it, still have a few more hrs to go! It takes time...
Markee wrote:
That's what I've been doing, put about 2 hours in. The previous owner started the process with it looks to be 180 grit :dry: I've been...
That's what I've been doing, put about 2 hours in. The previous owner started the process with it looks to be 180 grit Dry I've been sanding and sanding, buff to see where i'm at and it shines pretty good, but you can still see some of the 180 cuts, so I start over.

Would love to get a 89 250 tank and put this effort into for my 500, but everyone wants to much $
I ended up buying a 1990 k5 last spring, first thing I did was start looking for an 89 250 tank....within days I found a guy parting an 89 in Long Island NY. Got the tank for 60.00... They are out there, keep looking, the 89 250 tank looks way better than the stock 500 tank.... Restoring the plastic tanks takes alot of time sanding, it sucks, but if you keep at it, going finer & finer on the sanding paper, they almost start to shine without even buffing. I have been watching your K5 build, it's awesome, wish I could fab & weld...I have a good shop that does it for me. I have asked my powdercoat shop friend to get the Ral code for the green powder... It is right on the $... I"m gathering parts now for my K5 build coming up pretty soon....

Pit Row

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