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Only $10 for all 2024 SX, MX, and SMX series (regularly $30).
Just got the lower part if the brackets loaded with weld, then dressed them down and drilled out the holes for the pins, worked a treat prior to powder coat.
I used IMS pro series pegs, no complaints with them.
Cool project. Good luck with the hunt for a raw pipe!
Pipe look, I ran into this on my 96 cr resto, Took a plated fmf pipe & stripped it raw & blued the welds, came out real nice but a lot of work.
Sourced some nice used p/c pegs from eBay, from a 96 kx 250, fit perfect, just have to build up the peg bracts with weld as others have stated.
Got this cool new tool to replace the stripped out blind nut inserts, just like I did back in 1989 on my original bike!
Completed the teardown today with splitting cases & inspecting gearbox & crank.
Tranny looks good, Looks like I can just replace bearings & seals.
The Shop
Cleaned up some parts in the glass bead cabinet...
Waiting for new rear wheel bearings before I can send out hubs to get new rims laced up, Just going with the stock silver/ alum color rims & raw hub look.
Was planning on just going with stock alum colored rims, opened box & got black wheels....little mix up at the wheel builder shop....no big deal, I like black rims too!
these parts ready to be blasted tomaro soda & glass beads. This portion of the build is the most time consuming
Had to grind/sand out deep gouges & scrapes out of swing arm before glass beading, these arms were primed with black primer & painted silver from factory, swingsarms look like crap after a few hrs of riding, think I will go with raw look after glass beading.
Almost have all the usable original hardware ready for plating, I parts wash them, then clean each piece on a brass wire wheel on the bench grinder....easily the biggest pita on these old restores...but when you get the replated hardware back it"s well worth it. My plater states he can do "yellow zinc" which much of this hardware appears to be on the Kawasaki"s
Soda last did not cleanup bottom of cases too good
Top. & sides of cases came out better
Triples & alum brcts came out good
Shock body clean up nice too...can anyone tell me how that nut comes off the shock shaft, at lower clevis? I need to remove that little cup that bumper sits in for replating.
Swingarm barely fits in my glass bead cabinet, appears will be easier to refinish the arm vs completely removing all original paint & primer
Pit Row
Powerseal USA in PA. Does excellent work! I have had them do a number of cylinders in the last 5 years, all top quality, quick turn around & fair price.
Going to try & save this stock pipe, dropped off at sandblast guy yesterday, still waiting on my frame from them. I"m trying to save what I can & save monies for parts that cannot be repaired. The pipe has surface rust but appears solid & minor dents can be blown out. We"ll see how pipe looks after blasting.
Shifter only shows wear are very end of tip, looks like new Oem availible for about 100.00. I think I can weld the tip up nice & then glass bead the lever, then I will include shifter in my batch of bolts to be plated, the shift tip is steel & should come out nice. The rear brake lever is much worse, appears still availible from Kawasaki so I ordered a new one. Trying not to spend too much on this build! Ordered bunch of stuff from Evo-MX , seat cover & graphics. Just gathering parts & keeping things moving along. I thought I found new kips valves from Babbits, their site let me order them, but a week later they replied saying NLA. I also ordered the output shaft bearing from them, have not heard back on that one yet.
Look closely at tip, inserted a steel dowel pin from a cylinder, sticking out about 1-2 mm"s, this will give me something to build up weld on, then grind down, when it"s done it will look similar to a YZ shift tip, Should take about 15 mins. I like refurbishing parts!
Let me know if you want it.
Always loved the 88-89.
I was a TUF racing orange plastic & seatcover boy in my day - still my favorite bike. Would love to have one in the garage again.
Assembled the power valve assembly today, took me a little bit to get it right but I got it. Side kips valves have some wear on the channels that the center valve rod rides in, but they still work good, looking for new side valves but they can be installed any time a top end is done.
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