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Only $10 for all 2024 SX, MX, and SMX series (regularly $30).
They are really well made and 100 times stronger than stock, just hope all the hose spigots line up ok!
It's some kind of part-ceramic coat which is meant to be better at oil retention, whilst also reducing friction, making the hair grow back on your head, and increasing your stamina in the bedroom.
A friend of mine used to roadrace RS250's, and reckons Aptec are the best guys in the business.
With a self-tuned bike that was basically 2 CR125's stuck together, and made 90-odd HP on Avgas, he obviously knows his stuff.
He cut the head for my 125, and it flies.
I believe their prices are on their site. They are not cheap, but you get what you pay for.
Only £25 shipped to my door! You can't beat that
The Shop
Was happy to see the bottom chain slipper was there as well, I thought it was only going to be the main guide.
I will probably use the genuine Honda one I bought recently as it is black like the original.
So ended up melting in a couple of red cable ties with a soldering iron!! I know it's not to show room standards but this tank is now a spare as I am waiting for a good one to come this week I hope
Before
After
Amazing what some tar and glue remover can do as well
Would like to keep the originals on the bike rather than just fit a newer front end, that would just be cheating
Also read the early USD forks supposedly wear the insides of the legs for fun, contaminating the oil.
This was my reasoning for just swapping in a set of Twin Cartridge Showas, although it could all be Internet bollocks as Despite having a set of 91's and a set of 08's stood next to each other, I never bothered to try the swap.
Where the 1989 Honda CR250 Forks harsh, yes. Yet only through the small choppy stuff. I jars you in back-to-back small hits like sharp square edged whoops. That CAN be worked out with revalving regardless of what Motocross Action Magazine said.
The real problem like @Goodluckmonkey said is with contamination. The internals shed metal flakes/shavings and they plug up the internals. I am most certain that in these modern times a company like Enzo Racing or FCR Suspension could smoothing out the mid-stroke harshness of the fork and polish out the internals to lessen contamination issues. There are so many special coatings out there now days.
I used to get tired of people saying "this is fact, and this is fact" without having tried something themselves.
If something's heresay, I'll state that, as it may well be founded in truth, or it may just be what someone heard down the pub.
As you say, undoubtedly these things can be made very good using modern coatings and materials, and I was really tempted to have a go, just to preserve a little more of the bike I owned as a teen.
In the end, it just wasn't worth the aggro or expense.
The thing with a lot of Motocross Action Magazine (my favorite Motocross Publication) Bike Tests are that they always try to do a backyard fix on something first and then make a general assumsion off of that. There test of the forks read as "we tried these fork springs, we tried this oil, we tried this oil height". "Those things didn't work for the MXA Gang, so thus "NO ONE CAN FIX THESE FORKS" and that somehow became the truth at tracks all over the world and the internet just helped to spread the propaganda. It is sad because I read one of my very own posts on the Forks, and I had to shake my own head at myself.
Without a doubt Enzo Racing or FCR Suspension can get those forks working to perfection.
Sorry if I got your tread off topic Scottish Twinshock, but when people are researching 1989 Honda CR250 Forks/Fork Revalve they will now be able to see some positives, see what truly was the issue and no who can fix them.
I don't want a polished look as I think they look crap! Just my opinion would rather make it look original.
In attached pictures you can see my 91 swingarm before and after the anodising treatment.
It's not exactly as the original one but it's much better than not anodized at all.
Pit Row
Regards
heres my 89 cr 250 in Ayrshire
My thread is on in this section if you fancy a gander. Also do you know anyone local to me who can lace and true wheels. Got mune ready to go but wheels are holding me up
Bit of elbow grease and the caliper is looking a bit better after a strip down and rebuild and repaint
Chain guide was really beat up and bent took a while to get it straight and half decent looking befor fitting new plastic guide blocks etc
Fitted new pins to foot pegs
Welded up, drilled and tapped out rear mudguard mounting hole as it hade been drilled out of line previously
Drilled and helicoiled all damaged threads
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