Posts
2
Joined
8/21/2017
Location
Seattle, WA
US
Just installed the Rekluse RadiusX in my 2015 WR450F. Installation was easy, no different than putting in new clutch plates. The instructions were clear, just make sure you loosen your clutch cable all the way out at the beginning and pay attention to the order of plate installation as one of the friction plates is thicker and goes on top. To make it easy to identify the edge of the thick plate is silver where all the others were black. There are green dots on one tine of all the friction plates and I assumed those should all be lined up, though the instructions did not state that.
All adjustments for this cable clutch version are done externally by adjusting the length of the clutch cable housing and the idle speed. There are two settings, Installed Gap and Free Play Gain. The Installed Gap is simply the clutch lever free play before any tension is felt. Free Play Gain is the amount of free play increase when the engine is reved up over 5000 RPM.
For the Installed Gap setting, the instructions say there should be no free play at all. So I tightened up the cable till the lever was snug, but not tight. For the Free Play Gain you start the bike in neutral and with light pressure on the clutch lever (one finger) rev the engine up to at least 5000 RPM and the clutch lever should move in 1/8 to 1/4”. I did not have a tachometer, so I reved it up to what I thought was close to 5000 RPM and the clutch lever moved too far. Per instructions I kept lengthening the cable housing to put more tension on the cable to reduce the lever movement. When I thought I had it correct I moved on to the break in procedure which includes some rolling starts. It behaved just like a normal clutch and would stall out when I went to release the clutch if first gear with the breaks on. Took it through a few rolling starts and as I reved the engine up the clutch lever got completely loose as if the cable had broken.
The problem was simple. My idea of 5000 RPMs was WAY low. When doing this adjustment makes sure you really rev the engine up. I ended up extending the cable housing almost another full inch before the adjustment was correct. If the cable had been at this setting with the stock clutch it would have always been slipping, close to fully disengaged. Apparently the RadiusX needs a lot of tension on it to function correctly. Once getting that setting right I finished the break in procedure.
Starting from a full stop the engagement was a bit abrupt and only came on after a larger than expected twist of the throttle. This is very easy to adjust by increasing the idle speed. I increased the idle till it began a smooth engagement with the slightest twist of the throttle. It now very easily and smoothly will creep off from a dead stop. If I give it a lot of throttle from a dead stop it will launch off just as if I dumped the clutch.
I have been on two short rides, and my first impression is that it definitely feels different. My first ride I was mostly using it just like a regular clutch, having to really think about not using the clutch in low speed situations. After years of riding, it is just reflex. The clutch lever is a bit stiffer than before, but not too bad. Easy to pull with two fingers and I can single finger it up-shifting if I want to. My second ride I took it out to an abandoned sand mine that is very bumpy, with steep abrupt mounds and rocky areas. There are a lot of places there that had always been a challenge for me because it is pretty slow going (for me) and it was not very fun constantly working the clutch and throttle to keep it creeping along. The RaduisX worked fantastic! I had a great time roaming anywhere I wanted without any concern about stalling out. There is a fair amount of deep sand there and under hard acceleration there was no hint of slippage, a common complaint with the EXP 3.0.
When not going slow I rode the bike just like I always do. The clutch engagement feels a bit sharper when shifting and it seems like I am getting less wheel spin. I am not sure how one can get a snappier clutch and more traction, but that is what it feels like. Its only been a couple of short rides, but I am pretty happy with it so far. It definitely has a different feel, but not drastically so. I'm sure after a few more rides I will not even notice it. Can’t see how this will change my riding style except no longer having to worry about stalling out in the slow, tricky sections, which is exactly why I bought it. It is very easy to install, adjust without needing to remove the clutch cover, and works as advertised. It is my first Rekluse, and the EXP 3.0 is no longer available for the 2012-15 WR450F, but from what I have read this seems to be a much improved, if more expensive replacement. Its still $300 less than the Core EXP 3.0, which is what most people seemed to recommend. Not being a very aggressive rider, this should definitely meet all of my needs. I am looking forward to learning to steer with the rear brake which I shied away from as I stalled it out too often
All adjustments for this cable clutch version are done externally by adjusting the length of the clutch cable housing and the idle speed. There are two settings, Installed Gap and Free Play Gain. The Installed Gap is simply the clutch lever free play before any tension is felt. Free Play Gain is the amount of free play increase when the engine is reved up over 5000 RPM.
For the Installed Gap setting, the instructions say there should be no free play at all. So I tightened up the cable till the lever was snug, but not tight. For the Free Play Gain you start the bike in neutral and with light pressure on the clutch lever (one finger) rev the engine up to at least 5000 RPM and the clutch lever should move in 1/8 to 1/4”. I did not have a tachometer, so I reved it up to what I thought was close to 5000 RPM and the clutch lever moved too far. Per instructions I kept lengthening the cable housing to put more tension on the cable to reduce the lever movement. When I thought I had it correct I moved on to the break in procedure which includes some rolling starts. It behaved just like a normal clutch and would stall out when I went to release the clutch if first gear with the breaks on. Took it through a few rolling starts and as I reved the engine up the clutch lever got completely loose as if the cable had broken.
The problem was simple. My idea of 5000 RPMs was WAY low. When doing this adjustment makes sure you really rev the engine up. I ended up extending the cable housing almost another full inch before the adjustment was correct. If the cable had been at this setting with the stock clutch it would have always been slipping, close to fully disengaged. Apparently the RadiusX needs a lot of tension on it to function correctly. Once getting that setting right I finished the break in procedure.
Starting from a full stop the engagement was a bit abrupt and only came on after a larger than expected twist of the throttle. This is very easy to adjust by increasing the idle speed. I increased the idle till it began a smooth engagement with the slightest twist of the throttle. It now very easily and smoothly will creep off from a dead stop. If I give it a lot of throttle from a dead stop it will launch off just as if I dumped the clutch.
I have been on two short rides, and my first impression is that it definitely feels different. My first ride I was mostly using it just like a regular clutch, having to really think about not using the clutch in low speed situations. After years of riding, it is just reflex. The clutch lever is a bit stiffer than before, but not too bad. Easy to pull with two fingers and I can single finger it up-shifting if I want to. My second ride I took it out to an abandoned sand mine that is very bumpy, with steep abrupt mounds and rocky areas. There are a lot of places there that had always been a challenge for me because it is pretty slow going (for me) and it was not very fun constantly working the clutch and throttle to keep it creeping along. The RaduisX worked fantastic! I had a great time roaming anywhere I wanted without any concern about stalling out. There is a fair amount of deep sand there and under hard acceleration there was no hint of slippage, a common complaint with the EXP 3.0.
When not going slow I rode the bike just like I always do. The clutch engagement feels a bit sharper when shifting and it seems like I am getting less wheel spin. I am not sure how one can get a snappier clutch and more traction, but that is what it feels like. Its only been a couple of short rides, but I am pretty happy with it so far. It definitely has a different feel, but not drastically so. I'm sure after a few more rides I will not even notice it. Can’t see how this will change my riding style except no longer having to worry about stalling out in the slow, tricky sections, which is exactly why I bought it. It is very easy to install, adjust without needing to remove the clutch cover, and works as advertised. It is my first Rekluse, and the EXP 3.0 is no longer available for the 2012-15 WR450F, but from what I have read this seems to be a much improved, if more expensive replacement. Its still $300 less than the Core EXP 3.0, which is what most people seemed to recommend. Not being a very aggressive rider, this should definitely meet all of my needs. I am looking forward to learning to steer with the rear brake which I shied away from as I stalled it out too often
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