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I need plumbing advice

DownSouth

C100_dungey_a1_2014_1388887493

Posts: 5953

Joined: 7/5/2008

Location: West Palm Beach, FL USA

10/26/2011 8:46 AM

I'm trying to fix a leaking shower valve. It is a Peerless. I do not have the model#/instructions/parts list for it and can't find an exploded diagram online. It has a ball shaped knob that twists side to side to side for temp and moves up and down for on/off.

Does anyone know how this comes apart? I thought the dome shaped piece with the knurled ring would thread off but my channel locks are not budging it and I do not want to destroy it.

Or is this type of valve not fixable at all and just needs to be replaced? I am hoping to avoid going through the drywall on the adjacent wall to replace the entire assembly.

oldfart

C100_mandelalifeu_1372655121

Posts: 21495

Joined: 8/15/2006

Location: Las Vegas, NV USA

10/26/2011 9:09 AM

"It always seems impossible until it's done." -- Nelson Mandela

Sondy132001

C100_spcolor

Posts: 4077

Joined: 8/16/2006

Location: Mission Viejo, CA USA

10/26/2011 9:10 AM
Edited Date/Time: 10/26/2011 9:10 AM

dude call a plumber water or electricity you just don't mess with !

S

Hman144

C100_2448_47615a879553c

Posts: 996

Joined: 12/4/2007

Location: York, PA USA

10/26/2011 9:16 AM

Probably not worth trying to repair- the parts, (if you can find them), plus your time are probably more than the cost to replace. Even if you do get the old piece apart, you're likely to find or cause more problems. Shut off the supply, drain it, and replace it. You'll be much better off.

H

motogeezer

C100_th_photo_2004_12_4_4_50_50_edited

Posts: 5498

Joined: 4/1/2008

Location: Yorba Linda, CA USA

10/26/2011 9:21 AM

Looks like it's glued together with hard water deposits.

Soak it with some vinegar, and try again.

I found a similar valve, and it looks like it comes apart behind the chrome trim piece.

Pan down for exploded view:

Valve

There's also a customer support link on there.

DownSouth

C100_dungey_a1_2014_1388887493

Posts: 5953

Joined: 7/5/2008

Location: West Palm Beach, FL USA

10/26/2011 9:35 AM

motogeezer wrote: Looks like it's glued together with hard water deposits.

Soak it with some vinegar, and try again.

I found a similar valve, and it looks like it comes apart behind the chrome trim piece.

Pan down for exploded view:

Valve

There's also a customer support link on there.

That looks similar. The cylindrical trim piece behind the dome part spins freely but the dome is frozen solid. I will give some vinegar a try.

DownSouth

C100_dungey_a1_2014_1388887493

Posts: 5953

Joined: 7/5/2008

Location: West Palm Beach, FL USA

10/26/2011 10:01 AM

Well, I just destroyed it. Time to start cutting drywall and get out the torch and sweat some copper.

motogeezer

C100_th_photo_2004_12_4_4_50_50_edited

Posts: 5498

Joined: 4/1/2008

Location: Yorba Linda, CA USA

10/26/2011 10:10 AM

I hate it when that happens.

indy_maico

C100_maico

Posts: 4732

Joined: 4/1/2008

Location: Indianapolis, IN USA

10/26/2011 1:04 PM

DownSouth wrote: Well, I just destroyed it. Time to start cutting drywall and get out the torch and sweat some copper.

Use PEX tubing and Sharkbite or Gatorbite fittings. I just used them to plumb my shower prior to a new tile job.

Cut the copper tubing with a good tubing cutter, slip these on and forget about soldering copper pipes forever.

http://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/

“If I remember how this worked, you’d put a side on, and then you’d go and have something to eat, and then you’d put another side on.” … Mick Jagger

lumpy790

C100_image_1388949757

Posts: 4342

Joined: 9/18/2007

Location: York, SC USA

10/26/2011 1:16 PM

100% hate doing pluming ......but I am to cheap to pay a plumber

Hman144

C100_2448_47615a879553c

Posts: 996

Joined: 12/4/2007

Location: York, PA USA

10/26/2011 2:08 PM

You didn't take my advice the first time, maybe this time.......

X2 on the PEX/sharkbite. A little more salty on the purchase, but the time savings is incredible. The first time I used the stuff I told myself it was too easy to possibly be functional. I was wrong.

H

Sondy132001

C100_spcolor

Posts: 4077

Joined: 8/16/2006

Location: Mission Viejo, CA USA

10/26/2011 2:11 PM

DownSouth wrote: Well, I just destroyed it. Time to start cutting drywall and get out the torch and sweat some copper.

indy_maico wrote: Use PEX tubing and Sharkbite or Gatorbite fittings. I just used them to plumb my shower prior to a new tile job.

Cut the copper tubing with a good tubing cutter, slip these on and forget about soldering copper pipes forever.

http://www.sharkbiteplumbing.com/

wow that's nifty, it's like plumbing for women haha

S

indy_maico

C100_maico

Posts: 4732

Joined: 4/1/2008

Location: Indianapolis, IN USA

10/26/2011 2:26 PM

Hman144 wrote: You didn't take my advice the first time, maybe this time.......

X2 on the PEX/sharkbite. A little more salty on the purchase, but the time savings is incredible. The first time I used the stuff I told myself it was too easy to possibly be functional. I was wrong.

H

Yeah, Lowe's carries the Gatorbite brand, and when a guy in the plumbing aisle told me that was all he ever uses in new home construction, I bought the stuff.

When I took it home,laid it out, cut and shut, and saw how ez it was, I thought 'it can't possibly work!'

I had my wife watch it when I turned on the water expecting a scream to 'shut it off', but it never came!

The stuff definitely takes the pain of soldering copper out of the equation.

“If I remember how this worked, you’d put a side on, and then you’d go and have something to eat, and then you’d put another side on.” … Mick Jagger

lumpy790

C100_image_1388949757

Posts: 4342

Joined: 9/18/2007

Location: York, SC USA

10/26/2011 3:57 PM

call Joe the plumber ....... never mind he's in politics now

DownSouth

C100_dungey_a1_2014_1388887493

Posts: 5953

Joined: 7/5/2008

Location: West Palm Beach, FL USA

10/26/2011 4:32 PM

Hman144 wrote: You didn't take my advice the first time, maybe this time.......

X2 on the PEX/sharkbite. A little more salty on the purchase, but the time savings is incredible. The first time I used the stuff I told myself it was too easy to possibly be functional. I was wrong.

H

How did I not take your advice? I pretty much knew when I started that I would have to replace the entire valve assembly, I just wanted to try and take it apart first and see what could be done before I had to open up the wall.

My torch is MIA, my brother may have swiped it from my garage. I may go the sharkbite route if I can't locate the torch soon but those things are damn expensive, almost 8 bucks a pop last time I used some.

mx400bee

C100_empty_vance_cam_1_17_2013_034

Posts: 259

Joined: 7/1/2010

Location: Kannapolis, NC USA

10/26/2011 5:26 PM

I would replace that Peerless valve with a Moen if the faceplate covered the existing cutout. They even make a bigger faceplate if needed. I can`t recall ever having to replace anything other than a cartridge on a Moen and if the homeowner calls Moen they send it free. Taking it out only requires removing 3 screws, the handle stop and the cartridge clip.

BUTCH

C100_mefytaf04f_eqing9wefhqa_1_1391479191

Posts: 5432

Joined: 8/15/2006

Location: WA, USA

10/26/2011 6:19 PM

DownSouth wrote: Well, I just destroyed it. Time to start cutting drywall and get out the torch and sweat some copper.

Fuck'n Rookie!

HOLY SCHNITZENGRUBEN! WE WON THE SUPER BOWL!

jonjon714

C100_25278_real_life_beavis_1398878722

Posts: 6879

Joined: 4/29/2008

Location: Virginia Beach, VA USA

10/26/2011 6:37 PM

After taking a closer look at the picture, I believe the first install was a little lite on the silicone. Better make it three tubes this go round.



Usually you pay double for that kind of action, Cotton.

borg

C100_95123210_1260229192

Posts: 3208

Joined: 12/7/2009

Location: Fucking Norwalk, CA USA

10/26/2011 7:12 PM

If you want to use sharkbite on your own house then go for it. I do this for a living and would never use that stuff. It relies on a rubber o ring to seal. chemicals in the water and cold weather can effect that seal. I don't like callbacks. Especially when the leak is behind tile or swamps out a ceiling from the second floor.

jmar

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Posts: 16337

Joined: 2/11/2007

Location: Oklahoma City, OK USA

10/26/2011 7:50 PM

borg wrote: If you want to use sharkbite on your own house then go for it. I do this for a living and would never use that stuff. It relies on a rubber o ring to seal. chemicals in the water and cold weather can effect that seal. I don't like callbacks. Especially when the leak is behind tile or swamps out a ceiling from the second floor.

Borg is right, take his advise, and go back with sweated copper, and a quality mixing valve.

From what little I can see on the photo, it looks like a cheap mixing valve that wouldn't be worth repairing anyway.

Jim Martin

borg

C100_95123210_1260229192

Posts: 3208

Joined: 12/7/2009

Location: Fucking Norwalk, CA USA

10/26/2011 8:07 PM

borg wrote: If you want to use sharkbite on your own house then go for it. I do this for a living and would never use that stuff. It relies on a rubber o ring to seal. chemicals in the water and cold weather can effect that seal. I don't like callbacks. Especially when the leak is behind tile or swamps out a ceiling from the second floor.

jmar wrote: Borg is right, take his advise, and go back with sweated copper, and a quality mixing valve.

From what little I can see on the photo, it looks like a cheap mixing valve that wouldn't be worth repairing anyway.

I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. Callbacks are a bitch.

The valve is an old one that most places wont even sell anymore. At least in California you are required to use balanced pressure shower valves. You can get a Moen, Delta or Price Pfister at Depot for about 100 bucks. When they crap out, you replace the cartridge for about 1/2 that and you're good for another 10 years. It takes about 5 minutes.

SEEMEFIRST

C100_110348810_1236713747

Posts: 6801

Joined: 8/21/2006

Location: Arlington, TX USA

10/26/2011 9:11 PM

You have black mold! You'll have to tear the house down!!!

Bastards were going through telling everyone that a few yeas ago. Really? Wow the hell did people live before this?

Go for it! Don't let a little thing like fear, or common sense hold you back.

jmar

C100_559813_10150828848590579_702130578_11945766_733442742_n

Posts: 16337

Joined: 2/11/2007

Location: Oklahoma City, OK USA

10/26/2011 9:21 PM

SEEMEFIRST wrote: You have black mold! You'll have to tear the house down!!!

Bastards were going through telling everyone that a few yeas ago. Really? Wow the hell did people live before this?

Asbestos is about played out. They need a new boogie man for a cash cow. . Put lead paint on that list of boggie men also.

Jim Martin

SEEMEFIRST

C100_110348810_1236713747

Posts: 6801

Joined: 8/21/2006

Location: Arlington, TX USA

10/26/2011 9:23 PM

LEAD PAINT!!! ARRRGGGHHH!!!

Go for it! Don't let a little thing like fear, or common sense hold you back.

borg

C100_95123210_1260229192

Posts: 3208

Joined: 12/7/2009

Location: Fucking Norwalk, CA USA

10/27/2011 6:52 AM

SEEMEFIRST wrote: LEAD PAINT!!! ARRRGGGHHH!!!

Oh yeah! You have to have a Lead Paint Abatement certification to demo 6 square feet of any interior wall in any house built before the mid 70's in California.. There are 5 separate certifications. A guy like me has to have at least 2 of these certifications to put a typical doorway in an interior wall in your house.

More California idiocy: The permit fees for a 650 sq/ft addition I did in Long Beach? $4,500.00. FOR A FUCKING PERMIT!
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