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9/24/2013
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LA, CA
US
Edited Date/Time
9/5/2014 7:39am
Do you prefer to take the plastics off the bike before applying graphics, or do you rather install them while the plastics are on the bike?
I just bought all new plastics and need to apply some.. I read somewhere that most pro wrenchers like to put them on while they are on the bike so they don't move, but i can't imagine it would hurt to be able to manipulate the plastics whatever way you would need.
Any other insight? I've never used to soap method, any one else a fan of it?
I just bought all new plastics and need to apply some.. I read somewhere that most pro wrenchers like to put them on while they are on the bike so they don't move, but i can't imagine it would hurt to be able to manipulate the plastics whatever way you would need.
Any other insight? I've never used to soap method, any one else a fan of it?
On bike is easier IMO as you don't have to fight the motion of the damn thing moving while applying
patients is a virtue lol
the Windex keeps them from sticking while you line them up
The Shop
I have done the wetting the plastics routine but I just put them on dry now with a heat gun. Don't get crazy with the heat because they will melt. You can pull them up and maneuver them just don't do it too much right after you heat them because they will deform and stretch. If you get the vinyl too hot, give it a few moments before you touch it or you put a permanent finger print on it. Its all about patience as mentioned a few times already. Usually the exhaust side number plate is most difficult one to do (depending on the bike), but with heat and patience you should be fine.
Usually just ship it to Decal Works. Saves me punching a hole in the wall.
Clean your plastics with straight isopropyl alcohol instead. Windex has non streaking additives and other gunk added to it.
If you use a wet method for application all you need is water with a couple of drops of soap. Some people add a teaspoon of alcohol to the mix, but I've never noticed the difference. If this mixture can apply a 4' x 8' decal without air bubbles it can certainly work for MX graphics.
Heat is your friend as stated above. A heat gun is overkill for most people, a hair dryer on low setting is less likely to burn your graphics or melt your plastics the way a heat gun can. Some pros even use a propane torch because it heats up really quick, but it takes a very experienced hand to apply vinyl that way.
You people are sick, sick I'm telling you. Ain't nobody got time for that!
Dry with a little heat where necessary.
Pit Row
BUT, the number plate on the right side (with the silencer) for the life of me I can't get that thing to lay flat...(I buy the pre-printed numbers and backgrounds). On the bike, off the bike...heat, no heat...wet, dry...doesn't matter...I'm going to butcher that number plate.
When I can, i take a table outside and do it in the sunlight, makes the graphic so much more pliable.
I always take the plastic off the bike, you can move it around much easier that way.
Have windex , a credit card, a small plastic drywall knife, and a single edge razor blade on hand to pop the bubbles that you cant push out with the credit card.
Just take your time and always remember the glue on the graphics needs 24 hours to really set before they can be used.
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