Wondering why my brake still sucks

Oechiih
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4
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1/1/2016
Location
CH
Edited Date/Time 1/3/2016 2:53pm
Hi guys,
Currently I'm stuck with my front brake not providing any feel.
Also it doesn't help that I rode my brothers KTM which has the best brakes I have ever felt on any dirt bike. I myself ride a Honda CRF 250 R from 2011.
I tried pretty much all the common mods:
-Goldfren SS Braided Brake Line
-MotoStuff 280mm oversized rotor
-New Genuine Honda Brake Pads
-Fresh Motul Dot 5.1 Brake Fluid out of a sealed container
-M/C rebuild kit (those were AllBalls though)
-Bleeding for hours and hours

I wanted to put a complete KTM Brembo set on my Honda but that would be to expensive I think. So after reading the following post I think buying a brand new Brembo M/C off ebay might help.

http://www.vitalmx.com/forums/Moto-Related,20/FC-Honda-running-Brembo-K…

Also I'm using the bendable Arc Levers which probably only contribute to the lack of feel. Does anyone have any other ideas?
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brimx153
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3338
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5/3/2012
Location
IE
1/1/2016 4:53pm
i d only ever put DOT 4 in . but maybe there dirt in the system .because with all you have .your front brake should be every bit as good if not better than a ktm ( just cause KTM is 260 mm, and you have a 280)
brimx153
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1/1/2016 4:57pm
plus check the new seals .they can be hard to get in right ,and when you put the piston it you cant tear the seal ,
1/1/2016 5:00pm Edited Date/Time 1/1/2016 5:04pm
Ahh the notorious Honda front brake. Don't believe the bigger rotor will help with 'feel'. Only thing I have found that helps (and I have done a lot of trial and error) is a change of pipe to a decent braided one together with genuine Nissin pads (they can be difficult to find, not even our local Honda dealership sells them). That being said don't ever expect to get it as good as the brembo.

Edit: also found once I had got fork oil on the pads and rode out a few sessions I could never get the 'feel' back, can the caliper body become soft from excessive force don't know, one for the experts.
philG
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GB
1/1/2016 5:01pm
take it all off as an assy , and hang it up by the lever , any air will find its way out.

And agree with the 5.1... 4 is the stuff

The Shop

KTMShane699
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Colchester, CT US
1/1/2016 5:08pm
philG wrote:
take it all off as an assy , and hang it up by the lever , any air will find its way out. And agree with...
take it all off as an assy , and hang it up by the lever , any air will find its way out.

And agree with the 5.1... 4 is the stuff
Ideally the Motul RBF600 is even better. Still DOT 4, but with a higher boiling point. It's my "go to" brake fluid.

I agree that you need to check the rotor and pads. I ruined a set of pads by getting a cleaner on them once. Don't remember what I had gotten on them. But once I took scotch brite to the rotor and new pads, the feel was awesome again.

Sadly, your Honda brakes will never be as good as the KTM brembo setup.

Shane
scooter5002
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Nanton Alberta CA
1/1/2016 5:18pm
Only difference between DOT4 and 5.1 is a higher boiling point, so that's not an issue. Take Shane's advice, scuff you pads and rotor. I'd question the quality of that Chinese All Balls kit, I'll never buy anything made by them again. Absolute shit, in my opinion. If you don't have a vacuum bleeding kit, take your whole assembly off the bike, and reverse bleed it. Going to make a mess, so do it over a bucket. Make sure your master is a lot higher than the caliper.

I have a stainless line and Galfer o/s kit on a stock 07 450 Suzuki master cylinder. I wouldn't say it's as strong as a newer Brembo, because I've ridden a KTM, but it's not far off. I can tell you from experience, it's not a 2 finger system. One finger, with a good pull, and it will stop the 290 pounds of lard sitting on that bike.
1/1/2016 5:22pm
This may sound trivial, but is the brake lever pivot bushing in good condition and greased?

I find a dry or worn pivot bushing reduces the feel of the front brake drastically. If you pull the lever and it is dragging on the pivot you feel resistance, causing you to be tricked into thinking you feel brake pressure. The effort used in pulling the lever to apply the brakes is wasted on overcoming the friction in the pivot.
Twist1
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EI, NC US
1/1/2016 5:47pm Edited Date/Time 1/1/2016 6:37pm
Does it always suck, or fade after riding, getting dirty etc.?

-zip tie the lever to the grip over night
-force fluid through the caliper with a syringe

easy ways to determine if air is present
RPM68
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DFW, TX US
1/1/2016 6:02pm
Do what Ping said, zip tie your front brake fully squeezed to your throttle over night. Fixed all my problems
mb
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Columbia, SC US
1/1/2016 7:48pm
if the pads are new than you need to scuff the rotor and clean with brake cleaner. Grease the caliper. Go buy a cheap pair of farm syringes 60cc or so, but less is fine. Fill up one of the syringe with new brake fluid and push it through the caliper to the top. Use the other syringe to remove fluid from the MC. After this the brake will have some resistance, but not as much as normal. Next, bleed the brake using the conventional method. The lever should now be firm. Install the MC cover and done. You can zip tie the lever, but I have found the results are minor and temporary.

Next time your ride you need to "bed in" the pads. Go from slow speeds to high speeds gradually increasing braking force. After this your brakes should be as good as they can be (very good).
1/1/2016 11:44pm
With those after market levers, at least on my 125s, they never moved correctly and were always very sticky. I'd revert back to a stock lever to make sure it's moving freely, or make sure they is some play in the perch.

And there's a reason Brembo is the best. Maybe try and find a used Brembo MC off KTM and try it out.
Oechiih
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Location
CH
1/2/2016 3:54am
Alright! Thank you all for that massive amount of support!
As scooter5002 said the only difference between Dot 5.1 and Dot 4 is the higher boiling point so that should actually be better or at least equal to Dot 4. Anyway the container in which my fluid is in has been opened for quite some time so I'd have to buy new fluid anyways.
@Andy_Grenney I think Goldfren is a pretty decent brake line. I only ever read about the genuine Honda Pads are by far superior to aftermarket brake pads so that was one of the first things I changed as the "Braking" Pads I was running were really bad. I didn't know there were Pads might by Nissin but I'll definitely look into it.
@PhilG Hanging up the complete assembly sounds promising. I haven't tried that yet but will definitely.
@Scooter5002 I tried reverse bleeding multiple times and it didn't really help much. I normally don't buy anything made by AllBalls but I couldn't get genuine parts in the needed time span.
@fulltime wrench The lever isn't hard at all it's rather spongey.
@Twist1 It sucks all the time... I tried the "ZipTieTrick" multiple times it felt a bit better on the first couple of pulls but goes back to bad in almost no time.
@mb I think I'll have to put on new Pads as my fork seal has to be redone as well. I have never tried to bleed it conventionally right after reverse bleeding so that's something to look into as well. I did bed in my pads and rotor when I got the new rotor and put on new pads.
@KICKERMAN360 I don't have anymore stock levers here sadly... Also I don't want to "waste" the money for a stock lever now if I would be getting a Brembo M/C.
Could there be something wrong with my caliper?
Again thank you all for your support! I'll try everything.
Thanks again and a happy new year everyone!
motodriller
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2/13/2009
Location
Pasco, WA US
1/2/2016 4:49am
My 450 Honda tipped over and landed on the front brake lever. It lost that solid feeling so I bought a new resivore complete with piston and seals, put a steel braced line on it and that made it feel new again. I think you are losing a lot of feel with those flexible levers.
Roscoe33
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Location
London CA
1/2/2016 6:27am
"-Bleeding for hours and hours "

my guess the braided line has a small leak
1/2/2016 6:58am
I did the reverse bleeding on my yz with a hose and a food marinade syringe stolen from the kitchen. Actually worked really really well and easy.
1/2/2016 8:02am
My local Honda dealership sold Goldfren so I guessed they were genuine...but they weren't. After scuffing and numerous rides they were still rubbish, found the Nissin ones online, almost double the price but I wouldn't use anything else now. Also older rotors get grooved, usually between the drilled holes reducing the braking force.
Moto520
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Schaumburg, IL US
1/2/2016 9:10am
Could be the caliber. I'm pretty sure they have some rings or seals of some sort that can rot. I would check that. I feel for ya....it seems like once the brakes go bad it's hard to get them right.
1/2/2016 9:15am
not reading any replies so sorry if someones told you, but id say its probably using lube (wd40 etc) after washing the bike and it getting n the disk, i made this mistake before moto two once and at the first corner realised what id done. as i went to break but instead diddnt
urbanlift707
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Humboldt, CA US
1/2/2016 9:31am
The best advice is to never ride a KTM! Although the brakes are so good on them I have trouble getting used to it and don't like them. I suppose if I put in more time I would.

Nothing compares to new stuff too. On my 2012 rmz I had an oversized roto and SS line, lever felel was excellent, they always had fresh fluid, yet they still were rubbish compared to the stock components of my 2015 when it was new. Then I tossed those parts on the 15 and I've got all the brakes I've ever needed.
murph783
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CT US
1/2/2016 11:14am
mb wrote:
if the pads are new than you need to scuff the rotor and clean with brake cleaner. Grease the caliper. Go buy a cheap pair of...
if the pads are new than you need to scuff the rotor and clean with brake cleaner. Grease the caliper. Go buy a cheap pair of farm syringes 60cc or so, but less is fine. Fill up one of the syringe with new brake fluid and push it through the caliper to the top. Use the other syringe to remove fluid from the MC. After this the brake will have some resistance, but not as much as normal. Next, bleed the brake using the conventional method. The lever should now be firm. Install the MC cover and done. You can zip tie the lever, but I have found the results are minor and temporary.

Next time your ride you need to "bed in" the pads. Go from slow speeds to high speeds gradually increasing braking force. After this your brakes should be as good as they can be (very good).
Started bleeding systems like this a couple years ago, and I'll never go back, so much easier. Also I'll back the go back to stock lever idea. I have no idea if it was a common thing, but I know I ran asv's on my 2007 honda back in the day, and I for the life of me could not keep a master cylinder from blowing seals apart. Ended up switching back to a stock lever and never had the issue again.
lumpy790
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York, SC US
1/2/2016 1:35pm
Pump up and hold then crack loose the top banjo bolt. Bubbles form and stay there till bled.
Robgvx
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1/2/2016 2:30pm
lumpy790 wrote:
Pump up and hold then crack loose the top banjo bolt. Bubbles form and stay there till bled.
That's an excellent tip.

Not the bottom banjo as well?
lumpy790
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1/2/2016 2:35pm
lumpy790 wrote:
Pump up and hold then crack loose the top banjo bolt. Bubbles form and stay there till bled.
Robgvx wrote:
That's an excellent tip.

Not the bottom banjo as well?
Bubbles typically float up to the top
NZ272
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NZ
1/2/2016 2:36pm
RPM68 wrote:
Do what Ping said, zip tie your front brake fully squeezed to your throttle over night. Fixed all my problems
Me too. Works on mtb as well.
Robgvx
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1/2/2016 2:46pm
lumpy790 wrote:
Pump up and hold then crack loose the top banjo bolt. Bubbles form and stay there till bled.
Robgvx wrote:
That's an excellent tip.

Not the bottom banjo as well?
lumpy790 wrote:
Bubbles typically float up to the top
Very true. Wouldn't hurt though would it?
Oechiih
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4
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1/1/2016
Location
CH
1/3/2016 12:48am
lumpy790 wrote:
Pump up and hold then crack loose the top banjo bolt. Bubbles form and stay there till bled.
Robgvx wrote:
That's an excellent tip.

Not the bottom banjo as well?
lumpy790 wrote:
Bubbles typically float up to the top
Wow... That's something completely new to me. But wouldn't I let air in if I cracked it open?
1/3/2016 3:43am
Oechiih wrote:
Wow... That's something completely new to me. But wouldn't I let air in if I cracked it open?
Not if you pull the brake lever while you do it and dont let go until it is tightened up.
bish153
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Frisco, TX US
1/3/2016 8:05am
All this talk about brakes...all I ever worried about is how fast the throttle whipped open!
brimx153
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IE
1/3/2016 2:53pm
here s a thing i do helps make the brake really firm . adjust the brake lever fully out as far away from the bar as you can . this make s the brake really firm ,but the lever is now to far out . so i heat it and bend the lever back to where i want it . this works great do it on all my bikes

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