Posts
705
Joined
12/29/2013
Location
AU
Edited Date/Time
9/14/2015 2:18pm
I put in a brand new OEM clutch the other day and have been riding 3 times since, the first time out my dad noticed that smell of a burnt out clutch as I've burnt one out before but that was after about 6 months of usage. I changed to my current clutch because I was noticing the over revving feeling of what we thought was a clutch being burnt out but I'm starting to think that's not the case. Riding today being the third ride on this new clutch I was experiencing the same old over revving sensation, every gear I went through it'd reach full revs within a very short amount of seconds yet still have barely any pull at all and I found myself going around practically the whole track in fifth gear. Oil, coolant, fuel etc. was all in check BTW. I looked into it a bit(without finding the solution
) and I'm starting to think perhaps it's the transmission beginning or past beginning to go, I've made a habit of shifting gears without clutching due to racing and think that could be it. Dad and I aren't the most mechanically savvy when it comes to gearbox, bottom end and all that tricky stuff because we haven't had to go that deep yet and I only abuse the clutch throughout corners and stuff as much as the next racer so I don't think within 3 rides I've been impossibly severe on the clutch. Any help would be appreciated and for your info I have a 2011 YZ250F, should be making a long awaited upgrade soon though
Cheers for any help boys!
Cheers for any help boys!
The Shop
in my experience transmissions never slip a little. They are either engaged or freewheeling due to misalignment/broken pieces.
Freeplay is something I didn't look at closely enough, my lever is fairly tight aswell so I'll check that.
I soaked all the plates quite thoroughly.
We haven't touched the basket at all so that's a possibility, how regularly should one of those be replaced?
Springs I'm not positive on, we just placed them in there as per usual.
I'll go have a good look at all your suggestions tomorrow and get back to you guys, hopefully I didn't make this thread because of crappy cable adjustment Thanks for all the replies!
Some from from manuals, some from older riders and some from mistakes.
The arm the cable hooks to on the engine is were you need freeplay.
It shoves on a rod that goes thru the center of the tranny shaft the basket runs on and pushes the pressure plate away from the plate stack.
As the pressure plate and hub wear it moves inward and can and will bottom out against that rod which makes the cluth slip.
There is an adjuster in the center of the pressure plate,a screw and lock nut,
Unhook the cable from the arm on the engine,if it has no freeplay that is the problem,loosen the locknut and back out the screw until there is a quarter inch of freeplay or so.
Most of the time there is a ball bearing at the rod end on the pressure plate side. The other end rides against the clutch arm and a ball will be there also. It rides against the flat face of the clutch arm .
The adjustment lets you find the sweet spot that gives the arm the most mechanical advantage its design will allow.
I always take the arm out and examine its design then modify it to give a one finger clutch pull. Over the years I've seen very bad designs there and even casting trash left over from the mold ,a bastard file and a little testing will get a easy clutch pull most times.
Pit Row
I always run ATF ,walmart brand,cheaper the better,what money I saved goes to beer and cigs.
Automatic trannys have clutch packs just like a bike and it works the best.
not supposed to look like:
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