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8677
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3/12/2011
Location
Fort Worth, TX
US
Edited Date/Time
1/24/2015 8:49pm
I bought my bike a year or so ago. Turns out the previous owner tightened the oil drain bolt on with an impact wrench and some locktite. Just a guess from how tight the bolt is. I'm tired of changing the oil from the clutch case. I've tried everything I know on the bolt.
2013 YZ250 2 stroke. Aluminum case and metal bolt I believe.
1 - Rounded the head with the 12MM socket
2 - Went and bought some grip-all sockets - didn't work
3 - Tried cutting a straight slot strip to get a screwdriver in there.
4 - I used a reverse drillbit and it broke off in the center. Drilling the middle out is no longer an option unless anyone else has an idea of how to get the bit out.
I'm to the point that I want to try to tack weld a new bolt to the old one, to try to get a head on the bolt. I'm a bit nervous about cracking the case with the heat. Anyone ever do this? If I just tack a new bolt to the seized bolt and don't hold the welder on for longer than a second at a time, let it cool between tacking each side, is there enough heat there to compromise the case? Seems like it might be alright if I'm not just beading the bolt all the way around but just wanted to get a collective opinion.
I'm not looking to hold anyone responsible, just looking to see if anyone has gone this route.
2013 YZ250 2 stroke. Aluminum case and metal bolt I believe.
1 - Rounded the head with the 12MM socket
2 - Went and bought some grip-all sockets - didn't work
3 - Tried cutting a straight slot strip to get a screwdriver in there.
4 - I used a reverse drillbit and it broke off in the center. Drilling the middle out is no longer an option unless anyone else has an idea of how to get the bit out.
I'm to the point that I want to try to tack weld a new bolt to the old one, to try to get a head on the bolt. I'm a bit nervous about cracking the case with the heat. Anyone ever do this? If I just tack a new bolt to the seized bolt and don't hold the welder on for longer than a second at a time, let it cool between tacking each side, is there enough heat there to compromise the case? Seems like it might be alright if I'm not just beading the bolt all the way around but just wanted to get a collective opinion.
I'm not looking to hold anyone responsible, just looking to see if anyone has gone this route.
Good luck!
heated up the cases to soften the lockee tite....
then hammer on an 11 mm socket...the smacking helps shock the threads loose...
then twist out offending bolt.....
Isn't a bit of heat the best way to deal with loctite heat? You don't want to make it glow red or anything, but have you put a bit of heat to it?
(Maybe it's to late for that since the bolt is already stripped and you have to deal with that...)
Dazz, I've already tried the "smacking" thing as hard as I am comfortable with. I really don't want to compromise the case. The bolt is rounded off.
And I probably shouldn't have said loctite. I'm not sure what they've done but the bolt is stuck on the bike like moss on a Mississippi tree stump.
The Shop
you don't need to be spending another cpl hundred to try and save a few minutes....
BTW, even though I've been wrenching on bikes since 1973, I always use a torque wrench on oil drain bolts.
Good luck with the threads, Most likely they cross threaded your bolt and just kept cranking it in until it stopped leaking.
good luck!
When I have a tight bolt, the first thing I do is smack it on the top with a hammer. This loosens the threads. Heat also of course.
And I shouldn't have said anything about loctite. I was just trying to say that that bolt was stuck and not budging. I don't believe there is any loctite for real.
I'm going to try to tack a nut on the head of the bolt, heat the case with a heat gun and get it off that way.
I use a combo of washers and nuts welded to the head or broken off head, worst case being a flush stud in the case.
100% of the time I TIG weld to eliminate weld splatter and have total control of heat deliver in the parts.
Like others said, the heat will loosen any thread locker and it should come right out. BUT. Do not just spin it out, work it counter and clockwise back and forth. Walk it out similar to tapping a hole.
The expansion rates of the dissimilar metals will help in the removal because the aluminum will expand faster than your steel fastener.
Pit Row
They can get it out...one way or another.
When you get it out: Put an insert in there.
1. Get some high quality drill bits, not harbour freight ones. I got 2 packs of 1/16 and one or 2 more sizes to step up.
2. If you can, drill the left and the right of the broken drill bit. It's OK to angle the drill bit into the center as long as you dont poke through the other side, just don't go to deep.
3. Take a punch or a flat blade screw driver and try to hit the broken part of the bit from side to side to loosen it up. If that works you can keep trying with bigger bits or try to extract the bolt with the screwdriver and a wrench.
4. If you can't get the bit out, try smacking it with a punch. Drill bits are brittle and you might be able crack the bit into smaller pieces that will fall out.
This is how I got the broken bit out. The key is to use new, sharp bits and as soon as it feels a little dull, change it out.
slow and steady dont want to have to buy a new case.
Safest way and 2-stroke engines are cake to remove.
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