Restoration CR125 2003

McGrau
Posts
72
Joined
8/1/2014
Location
CL
Edited Date/Time 5/27/2015 10:51pm
Hi guys
Well, I'm new to this forum and I decided to join to share with the restoration of my bike here and in others forums

It all started when I saw the work he did MCfan4life with the bike of Jeremy McGrath and that motivated me to do the same. I take this instance to congratulate you.

I'm from Chile and give to know that my native language is not English, so I ask you understanding if sometimes I'm not expressing myself very clear. Sometimes I need help from the translator Laughing

In my country is not very common the theme of restoration, so here it is hard to learn techniques from others. That is why I would appreciate all the help you can give me


I hope you like it
Get down to work Wink

When I bought the bike
















I like the look of this sticker

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McGrau
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72
Joined
8/1/2014
Location
CL
8/3/2014 10:17pm
Good job.
How as you did to restore the frame and swingarm?
rmartin517
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474
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7/27/2014
Location
Dickinson, TX US
8/4/2014 1:27am Edited Date/Time 8/4/2014 1:27am
Alluminum wheel cleaner, wd-40 and scotch brite

The Shop

McGrau
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72
Joined
8/1/2014
Location
CL
8/4/2014 8:33pm
wow Shocked the result that you get this very cool... I'll try to swingarm
with the frame I tried other thing

had many years of dirt and very stuck







first thing I did to remove it, was washed with pressure washer.
even so not all dirt is removed, so I followed cleaning with a brush dishwasher liquid and hot wate



I achieved remove all dirt and stay very clean. to remove all scratches and refinishing, I covered some parts with masking tape to put in sandblast cabinet.

More later I will show the result
Mickolobe7
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1076
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9/5/2013
Location
Chicago, IL US
8/4/2014 9:09pm Edited Date/Time 8/4/2014 9:10pm
White diamond

Works awesome!

MxKing809
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6380
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10/13/2013
Location
Big Sand Whoops, MI US
Fantasy
334th
8/4/2014 9:11pm
Looking great!! Keep it up man! I admire your English skills considering it's your second language!
Xeno
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3635
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12/30/2010
Location
San Clemente, CA US
8/4/2014 9:16pm
Soda blast everything.

And for God's sake, change your avatar!
McGrau
Posts
72
Joined
8/1/2014
Location
CL
8/4/2014 9:42pm Edited Date/Time 8/4/2014 9:52pm
Mickolobe7 wrote:
wow. Shocked greeeat!... a question, multiquote is possible?
McGrau
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72
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8/1/2014
Location
CL
8/4/2014 9:43pm
MxKing809 wrote:
Looking great!! Keep it up man! I admire your English skills considering it's your second language!
Thanks. My english teacher was American.. she was really beautiful WhistlingEvil jajajaja
McGrau
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72
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8/1/2014
Location
CL
8/4/2014 9:51pm
Xeno wrote:
Soda blast everything.

And for God's sake, change your avatar!
Yeah, I think sodablast gives very good results .. I will change the sand by the soda. I already have the frame done, but I'll try the sodablast with the swingarm.

and the avatar ... jajaja yes, I think I should change
HenryA
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3789
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12/29/2011
Location
Stockholm SE
8/5/2014 12:05am
Seems like you found that bike just in time, it looks horrible at the moment but I'm sure that you will get her pretty again.
Btw, lovely killswitch. Grinning
McGrau
Posts
72
Joined
8/1/2014
Location
CL
8/9/2014 1:48pm
I have been reading in various forums and internet, information about of the original CR carb, the mikuni.
There is much talk that it is a carb very difficult to configure and somewhat unstable, so recommend the Keihin. Based on this and when riding the bike, it was impossible carburizing for me

So I decided to buy a carburetor keihin PWK 36, but did not find any in Chile, just found a 38 mm PJ a CR250 1997. I bought it for 40 usd.


The scene that I found was this:









I do not know if the state of the throttle valve, could affecting the operation... Nor has the needle jet nor the spring.



here need a good cleaning and a new seal apparently.






Now, how well this would work this carb compared to mikuni?
I should invest in rebuilding this carburetor or go back to mikuni?
This keihin have long body (91mm)... There is enough space to enter?

I hope the experts in the matter can help me
JA946
Posts
460
Joined
7/24/2014
Location
Tucson, AZ US
8/9/2014 2:20pm Edited Date/Time 8/9/2014 2:20pm
That carb is trashed.
8/9/2014 9:34pm Edited Date/Time 8/9/2014 9:40pm
This post is a few years old, but when I saw it I had to jump in. I have been wanting to rebuild another 125 and I couldn't pass up this deal. It's an 04. The pic below is how the bike is now, all I did was polish her up a bit. It was ridden by a good friends son and has been been sitting in is trailer the past couple of years. I know the head is missing, i have to drop a new o piston in tomorrow and she should be good to go. About a month or two from now it will be completely redone with all the goodies! For $1200.00 how could I not buy it!

McGrau
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72
Joined
8/1/2014
Location
CL
8/28/2014 4:08pm
some pictures of the engine .. a disaster







McGrau
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8/1/2014
Location
CL
9/10/2014 7:03pm
The place where I work, is a workshop engine reconditioners (I do not know if is the correct translation), and the guys checked the status and the cylinder is almost standard 53.850, manual specifications say "53976-53983" (service limit 54.013). so I did not do anything






The transmission is also in good condition, no wear in gears.






The crankshaft was measured and is within tolerances.



only the piston had wear, so I think buying a Wiseco
#991
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1685
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8/7/2013
Location
Melbourne AU
9/11/2014 6:28am Edited Date/Time 4/2/2015 6:32pm
...
McGrau
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72
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Location
CL
9/11/2014 7:30pm
#991 wrote:
...
alone? or you use it with some solvent or something like that?
you have any pictures of the frame or engine?
#991
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Location
Melbourne AU
9/11/2014 9:15pm Edited Date/Time 4/2/2015 6:33pm
#991 wrote:
...
McGrau wrote:
alone? or you use it with some solvent or something like that?
you have any pictures of the frame or engine?
...
wow123
Posts
1164
Joined
4/27/2010
Location
AX
9/12/2014 3:49am
IME you should put a new con rod in while its apart,
,
theres no way the rod will last considering the condition of the bike when you got it.

even in the picture the small end looks damaged (cant be sure), maybe it is within tolerances

but you cant see the damage from moisture to the big end.

more $ now, less in the future
Crush
Posts
20962
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4/26/2009
Location
Sydney AU
9/12/2014 4:51am
All you blokes doing these 125s are making me jealous!!

I'm far too big for one but love to ride em. When the bank is a little prettier I think I'll find it hard to resist a 150 or RM.
McGrau
Posts
72
Joined
8/1/2014
Location
CL
9/12/2014 5:41pm
#991 wrote:
...
McGrau wrote:
alone? or you use it with some solvent or something like that?
you have any pictures of the frame or engine?
#991 wrote:
...
I like how it looks ... I'll try.. Thanks

The clutch cover of your CRF, how you painted it? I want to do the same, I thought to use plasti dip
McGrau
Posts
72
Joined
8/1/2014
Location
CL
9/12/2014 5:44pm
wow123 wrote:
IME you should put a new con rod in while its apart, , theres no way the rod will last considering the condition of the bike...
IME you should put a new con rod in while its apart,
,
theres no way the rod will last considering the condition of the bike when you got it.

even in the picture the small end looks damaged (cant be sure), maybe it is within tolerances

but you cant see the damage from moisture to the big end.

more $ now, less in the future
A What do you mean with IME? I guess you're talking about the crankshaft.
In the workshop the guys measured the side clearance as it is indicated in the manual.

Also was measured the axial and radial play, as shown in the first image... I do not remember what were the measures, but I think they were almost minimal.


#991
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1685
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Location
Melbourne AU
9/12/2014 5:44pm Edited Date/Time 4/2/2015 6:33pm
...
9/12/2014 7:05pm
wow123 wrote:
IME you should put a new con rod in while its apart, , theres no way the rod will last considering the condition of the bike...
IME you should put a new con rod in while its apart,
,
theres no way the rod will last considering the condition of the bike when you got it.

even in the picture the small end looks damaged (cant be sure), maybe it is within tolerances

but you cant see the damage from moisture to the big end.

more $ now, less in the future
McGrau wrote:
A What do you mean with IME? I guess you're talking about the crankshaft. In the workshop the guys measured the side clearance as it is...
A What do you mean with IME? I guess you're talking about the crankshaft.
In the workshop the guys measured the side clearance as it is indicated in the manual.

Also was measured the axial and radial play, as shown in the first image... I do not remember what were the measures, but I think they were almost minimal.


Hey bud. What he is trying to say is you don't know the condition of the big end rod bearing since you can't do a visual inspection, or measure the pin and big end without disassembly of the crankshaft. So it needs to be replaced.

You have a crankshaft that is true and the main bearing journals are within tolerance, that's great. But it says nothing about the condition of the rod bearing.

Replace the rod and bearing now, the assembly will be as good as new. Leaving it alone you risk damaging a perfect crankshaft at the very least. I had a big end bearing failure that punched a hole in my cases, and broke a skirt off the cylinder.

You don't want that to happen. Way more expensive than a rod kit.
McGrau
Posts
72
Joined
8/1/2014
Location
CL
9/13/2014 7:12am
Ok man, I understand you
I had thought that, but I did not give a lot of importance.
Even I need to make another buy of things, so I'll add one new rod.
Thanks for the advice

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