Mucho RESPECT for anyone who can maintain a bike. Post your tips and tricks

Edited Date/Time 10/24/2014 5:33pm
DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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wwoberg
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Location
Soddy Daisy, TN US
10/23/2014 6:44pm
Wash it as soon as possible. Look at everything. Check chain all the time. Oil and filter every 3 rides. Air filter every ride. Check all bolts and spokes. Pay attention to motor mounts.

Top end and suspension every winter.
xc200
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49
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12/28/2013
Location
Astoria, OR US
10/23/2014 6:44pm
Tire foam the plastic when they start getting dull. Wd-40 kickstand pivot, kickstart pivot, and around suspension clickers to displace water after washing.
Mxdnusa
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470
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5/29/2013
Location
Philadelphia, PA US
10/23/2014 6:46pm
xc200 wrote:
Tire foam the plastic when they start getting dull. Wd-40 kickstand pivot, kickstart pivot, and around suspension clickers to displace water after washing.
Yup, wd40 everything. Keeps em clean and rust free. And clean and tighten everything after every ride.
hvaughn88
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Conway, AR US
10/23/2014 6:47pm
I don't ever get to ride mine, does that count? Haha

The Shop

10/23/2014 6:58pm
Dry with air compressor after washing. Wipe everything steel with lube after a wash. Don't wait til it breaks to maintain it.
KMC440
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US
10/23/2014 6:59pm
After washing use wd40 on the chain BEFORE applying any chain lube .... and use some damn grease on the air filter lip.
hvaughn88
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Conway, AR US
10/23/2014 7:02pm
hvaughn88 wrote:
I don't ever get to ride mine, does that count? Haha
I GUESS SOUnsure
I know, I know. It's ridiculous. I bought it after being out of the sport for about 10 years. My son has a pw50 so I figured we would both ride together, but he's just not that into it. Plus I don't have a single friend that could even name a rider, let alone owns a bike. I don't know what my plans are at this point. I'm not a big fan of going out and riding by myself. My pops has mentioned getting a bike (after he gets done paying for my youngest sisters wedding, haha) so maybe we will be able to ride together in the future. For now, it's just keeping things company in my shop, haha
Outsider
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Huntington Beach, CA US
10/23/2014 7:07pm
I remember my first lino...
10/23/2014 7:16pm
I always check my air pressure in my tires as soon as I unload my bike at the track.
It has always surprised me that some people rarely ever check their air pressure. Sometimes I check their tire pressure for them and have seen a range of 3-25 pounds of air! Surprisingly, my buddies that rarely check tire pressure have a ton of mods on their bikes!
Brad460
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Richfield, WI US
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10/23/2014 7:29pm Edited Date/Time 10/23/2014 7:30pm
I always check my air pressure in my tires as soon as I unload my bike at the track. It has always surprised me that some...
I always check my air pressure in my tires as soon as I unload my bike at the track.
It has always surprised me that some people rarely ever check their air pressure. Sometimes I check their tire pressure for them and have seen a range of 3-25 pounds of air! Surprisingly, my buddies that rarely check tire pressure have a ton of mods on their bikes!
I usually wait until Saturday night at 9pm to load up for Sunday races...until last time when I pulled the bike off the stand to load it into my truck and the F-ing front tire was flat!

Couldn't sleep all night worrying if I'd miss practice getting the front tube changed by the trackside dealer Laughing
10/23/2014 7:32pm
I always check my air pressure in my tires as soon as I unload my bike at the track. It has always surprised me that some...
I always check my air pressure in my tires as soon as I unload my bike at the track.
It has always surprised me that some people rarely ever check their air pressure. Sometimes I check their tire pressure for them and have seen a range of 3-25 pounds of air! Surprisingly, my buddies that rarely check tire pressure have a ton of mods on their bikes!
All the money is the world yet no common sense.
EZZA 95B
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AU
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10/23/2014 7:33pm Edited Date/Time 10/23/2014 7:39pm
Don't throw out your old toothbrushes... Awesome for scrubbing the hard to reach places.


jimmie
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Huntington Beach, CA US
10/23/2014 9:01pm Edited Date/Time 10/23/2014 10:02pm
After every ride,race or weekend at the desert...

1) Remove chain, place chain in a shallow tub, using left over gasoline, soak chain and agitate (disposing the now dirty gasoline can be a problem). Suspend chain by hanging and dowse with your favorite lube, leave chain hanging over night.

2) Remove air filter and clean/oil.

3) Remove all plastic including gas tank, fork/rotor/brake caliper protectors, seat etc. (air box on occasion) Clean these separately.

4) Remove skid/glide plate and other aluminum/carbon fiber protectors.

5) Every three/four rides, change motor and gear oils.

6) Now you may wash your bike, using a brush to get into all tight areas.

7) Start your bike and let it run out of fuel.

8) Drain float bowl of all remaining fuel (fuel injected rides should skip this step)Wink

9) Assemble bike, with all parts having been thoroughly cleaned prior.

Once a year, (or every other year) I will grease all linkage and pivot areas including steering stem and flush brake fluid.

I don't expect most people will be this detailed on a regular basis, but I have always been one to practice this ritual, with much ridicule from my peers, "you must spend more time cleaning your bike than you do riding it"Pinch

I seldom (if ever) was one needing to wrench on my bike upon the arrival of our ride destination. And quite often, people would make a comment about how my bike looked like I never rode it. (I'm sure they wished their bikes looked as good)

Selling my bikes is usually a painless experience to boot.




10/23/2014 9:15pm
jimmie wrote:
After every ride,race or weekend at the desert... 1) Remove chain, place chain in a shallow tub, using left over gasoline, soak chain and agitate (disposing...
After every ride,race or weekend at the desert...

1) Remove chain, place chain in a shallow tub, using left over gasoline, soak chain and agitate (disposing the now dirty gasoline can be a problem). Suspend chain by hanging and dowse with your favorite lube, leave chain hanging over night.

2) Remove air filter and clean/oil.

3) Remove all plastic including gas tank, fork/rotor/brake caliper protectors, seat etc. (air box on occasion) Clean these separately.

4) Remove skid/glide plate and other aluminum/carbon fiber protectors.

5) Every three/four rides, change motor and gear oils.

6) Now you may wash your bike, using a brush to get into all tight areas.

7) Start your bike and let it run out of fuel.

8) Drain float bowl of all remaining fuel (fuel injected rides should skip this step)Wink

9) Assemble bike, with all parts having been thoroughly cleaned prior.

Once a year, (or every other year) I will grease all linkage and pivot areas including steering stem and flush brake fluid.

I don't expect most people will be this detailed on a regular basis, but I have always been one to practice this ritual, with much ridicule from my peers, "you must spend more time cleaning your bike than you do riding it"Pinch

I seldom (if ever) was one needing to wrench on my bike upon the arrival of our ride destination. And quite often, people would make a comment about how my bike looked like I never rode it. (I'm sure they wished their bikes looked as good)

Selling my bikes is usually a painless experience to boot.




This was exactly what I was looking for my friends say the say thing until their bike is falling apart and mine is on the track.
bvm111
Posts
9323
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7/1/2008
Location
Las Vegas, NV US
10/23/2014 10:05pm
jimmie wrote:
After every ride,race or weekend at the desert... 1) Remove chain, place chain in a shallow tub, using left over gasoline, soak chain and agitate (disposing...
After every ride,race or weekend at the desert...

1) Remove chain, place chain in a shallow tub, using left over gasoline, soak chain and agitate (disposing the now dirty gasoline can be a problem). Suspend chain by hanging and dowse with your favorite lube, leave chain hanging over night.

2) Remove air filter and clean/oil.

3) Remove all plastic including gas tank, fork/rotor/brake caliper protectors, seat etc. (air box on occasion) Clean these separately.

4) Remove skid/glide plate and other aluminum/carbon fiber protectors.

5) Every three/four rides, change motor and gear oils.

6) Now you may wash your bike, using a brush to get into all tight areas.

7) Start your bike and let it run out of fuel.

8) Drain float bowl of all remaining fuel (fuel injected rides should skip this step)Wink

9) Assemble bike, with all parts having been thoroughly cleaned prior.

Once a year, (or every other year) I will grease all linkage and pivot areas including steering stem and flush brake fluid.

I don't expect most people will be this detailed on a regular basis, but I have always been one to practice this ritual, with much ridicule from my peers, "you must spend more time cleaning your bike than you do riding it"Pinch

I seldom (if ever) was one needing to wrench on my bike upon the arrival of our ride destination. And quite often, people would make a comment about how my bike looked like I never rode it. (I'm sure they wished their bikes looked as good)

Selling my bikes is usually a painless experience to boot.




I thought I was the only one this anal retentive about my motorcycle!

I get the same comments, I don't care, I think half the fun of owning it is being the garage working/cleaning/ maintaining it as much as riding it!
Cancerman
Posts
756
Joined
7/16/2011
Location
In Hell, FL US
10/23/2014 10:35pm
jimmie wrote:
After every ride,race or weekend at the desert... 1) Remove chain, place chain in a shallow tub, using left over gasoline, soak chain and agitate (disposing...
After every ride,race or weekend at the desert...

1) Remove chain, place chain in a shallow tub, using left over gasoline, soak chain and agitate (disposing the now dirty gasoline can be a problem). Suspend chain by hanging and dowse with your favorite lube, leave chain hanging over night.

2) Remove air filter and clean/oil.

3) Remove all plastic including gas tank, fork/rotor/brake caliper protectors, seat etc. (air box on occasion) Clean these separately.

4) Remove skid/glide plate and other aluminum/carbon fiber protectors.

5) Every three/four rides, change motor and gear oils.

6) Now you may wash your bike, using a brush to get into all tight areas.

7) Start your bike and let it run out of fuel.

8) Drain float bowl of all remaining fuel (fuel injected rides should skip this step)Wink

9) Assemble bike, with all parts having been thoroughly cleaned prior.

Once a year, (or every other year) I will grease all linkage and pivot areas including steering stem and flush brake fluid.

I don't expect most people will be this detailed on a regular basis, but I have always been one to practice this ritual, with much ridicule from my peers, "you must spend more time cleaning your bike than you do riding it"Pinch

I seldom (if ever) was one needing to wrench on my bike upon the arrival of our ride destination. And quite often, people would make a comment about how my bike looked like I never rode it. (I'm sure they wished their bikes looked as good)

Selling my bikes is usually a painless experience to boot.




bvm111 wrote:
I thought I was the only one this anal retentive about my motorcycle! I get the same comments, I don't care, I think half the fun...
I thought I was the only one this anal retentive about my motorcycle!

I get the same comments, I don't care, I think half the fun of owning it is being the garage working/cleaning/ maintaining it as much as riding it!
^^This both. Pretty much what I do, only I change tranny oil every other ride/race, it keeps the clutch healthier. I do linkage/swingarm lube after every mud event. Be careful with the pressure washer. Toothbrushes are critical for cleaning and inspecting up close. I also try to have the cleanest, best prepared bike at the track. I've never DNF'd a race, ever. No meltdowns or seizures either. In 44 years of riding/racing. Ride on..........Cool
EZZA 95B
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AU
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10/23/2014 10:41pm
I was lucky enough to look after my older brothers bikeWhistling and would tear down both bikes after every ride.
OCD for sure...

You miss so much with just a regular wash.


10/24/2014 2:46am
totally agree with everything jimmie had to say, i've always put a lot of prep into my bikes (prob ocd too Smile )
out of interest anyone got tips on cleaning rads? always been a tricky one
hillbilly
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9080
Joined
8/16/2006
Location
Afton, TN US
10/24/2014 5:32am
I use vinyl screen to cover the plastic radiator guards. Makes like a shaker screen you see on dirt track cars. Do it for years,never get debri in the rad,it will clump and fall off.

Use the posts that hold them in to wrap over then poke thru,let a little tuck behind on sides and top ,leave bottom untuck so any debri that gets behind is easy to wash out.

O___o
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730
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9/25/2014
Location
CA
10/24/2014 5:35am
2 stroke beast = the real Danny dolan
O___o
Posts
730
Joined
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Location
CA
10/24/2014 5:38am
totally agree with everything jimmie had to say, i've always put a lot of prep into my bikes (prob ocd too :)) out of interest anyone...
totally agree with everything jimmie had to say, i've always put a lot of prep into my bikes (prob ocd too Smile )
out of interest anyone got tips on cleaning rads? always been a tricky one
go to NAPA and buy the "Aluminum brightener". Gallon jug. 27 dollars. mix it 50/50 with water in a tub. submerge them. let them sit for 5 minutes. remove. Better than new, every single time.
hillbilly
Posts
9080
Joined
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Location
Afton, TN US
10/24/2014 5:57am
I use loctite on my perch screws so they will rotate in a fall.

Put loctite on screws,tighten till perch is snug but loose enuff to move if hit hard.

On the clutch perch I drill and tap a screw on the backside to adjust the lever toward the bar for the right distance to lay under the knuckle of my trigger finger.

I guess the breakaway perches have all these features but I've never used them,just make my own.

hillbilly
Posts
9080
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Location
Afton, TN US
10/24/2014 6:02am
And,

If you crossthread or mar threads on a hole and dont have taps it is easy to make one with the correct bolt for the thread.

Clamp the bolt in a vise or grips and use a flat bastard file to file groves in the bolt just like a tap.

Space them out around the bolt ,small bolt do 3 larger bolt do 4.

It will recut or clean the thread right up.
O___o
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730
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Location
CA
10/24/2014 6:06am
Damn. Hillbilly has probably figured out a way to re-use condoms, he's that crafty.


I used to put one wrap of plumbers tape round the bar, under my levers to get them to spin in a crash. Then I bought the Intelli-levers from Renthal. They'd survive a nuclear blast unscathed.
motosmith
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Location
Washougal, WA US
10/24/2014 6:50am
O___o wrote:
Damn. Hillbilly has probably figured out a way to re-use condoms, he's that crafty. I used to put one wrap of plumbers tape round the bar...
Damn. Hillbilly has probably figured out a way to re-use condoms, he's that crafty.


I used to put one wrap of plumbers tape round the bar, under my levers to get them to spin in a crash. Then I bought the Intelli-levers from Renthal. They'd survive a nuclear blast unscathed.
This post made me laugh from beginning to end.
sesker15
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1059
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4/14/2008
Location
Upper Marlboro, MD US
10/24/2014 7:35am
O___o wrote:
go to NAPA and buy the "Aluminum brightener". Gallon jug. 27 dollars. mix it 50/50 with water in a tub. submerge them. let them sit for...
go to NAPA and buy the "Aluminum brightener". Gallon jug. 27 dollars. mix it 50/50 with water in a tub. submerge them. let them sit for 5 minutes. remove. Better than new, every single time.
Yup I use the same trick.
Before

After


10/24/2014 7:48am
O___o wrote:
go to NAPA and buy the "Aluminum brightener". Gallon jug. 27 dollars. mix it 50/50 with water in a tub. submerge them. let them sit for...
go to NAPA and buy the "Aluminum brightener". Gallon jug. 27 dollars. mix it 50/50 with water in a tub. submerge them. let them sit for 5 minutes. remove. Better than new, every single time.
sesker15 wrote:
Yup I use the same trick. Before [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2014/10/24/68434/s1200_image.jpg[/img] After [img]https://p.vitalmx.com/photos/forums/2014/10/24/68435/s1200_image.jpg[/img]
Yup I use the same trick.
Before

After


Good stuff right here.. Does it work well on taking the dingey look off other aluminum parts like levers, etc? Not expecting a perfect polished look, but sounds like a good first step...
YZ125H1
Posts
707
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1/31/2012
Location
Elizabethtown, PA US
10/24/2014 7:49am
With 2 strokes do you guys clean the excess oil off regularly? Getting ready to tear down my bike now tons of oil all over the silencer/plastics/rear brake. I'm betting the silencer is full of oil also since it has not been repacked in awhile.
O___o
Posts
730
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Location
CA
10/24/2014 7:56am Edited Date/Time 10/24/2014 8:02am
Good stuff right here.. Does it work well on taking the dingey look off other aluminum parts like levers, etc? Not expecting a perfect polished look...
Good stuff right here.. Does it work well on taking the dingey look off other aluminum parts like levers, etc? Not expecting a perfect polished look, but sounds like a good first step...

here is the deal with this. i am not a metalurgist, nor do i claim to be, but aluminum comes in many different alloys. i am not sure of the specifics regarding metal content, ect.. but basically... some aluminum turns black when you put it in that acid. some turns white. if you get "white", you are in luck, it will come out sparking. but if it turns black... you're screwed and doing more harm than good.

maybe someone who knows more about aluminum and metalurgy can elaborate on what im saying. i think it has to do with cast aluminum, vs forged aluminum. but, the rough cast area on the front of your swingarm, hubs, radiators... all good candidates for that acid. engine cases wont clean up like that though.

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