Posts
545
Joined
9/24/2013
Location
LA, CA
US
Edited Date/Time
8/2/2014 6:06pm
Bit of backstory- I just started riding seriously in the past year or so... I have been riding my whole life on a very low level, but just recently I graduated, got a nice career and was able to afford a bike.. I picked up a 2010 CRF450 and started progressing at a pretty decent rate, until I went over the bars and tore my rotator cuff.
The 450 is awesome and the power is plentiful.. unfortunately the power is plentiful. The throttle is super sensitive and it takes a smooth (read, experienced) rider to be able to ride it without being over his head 80% of the time. I don't have as much fun riding since I'm always in the low end of the power (can't feel like I'm letting loose and just ripping) and I'm not a fan of the engine braking as it doesn't exactly build confidence in the air when you momentarily let off the throttle and start to endo.
I also don't like the weight of the bike.. even though I'm 6'1 185lbs, I sometimes feel like I'm dead sailing in the air. Can't really adjust the position mid-air too much, at least at my riding level.
Enter last friday... I drove 3 hours each way to go pick up a relatively clean 05 YZ 125 and I am absolutely THRILLED to have picked it up. I will be able to rip into the meat of the power on this bike, and while I may not be going anywhere, I'll surely feel like I am.
The only downfalls are:
-The suspension (especially the rear shock) is like a couch.. it sinks so much when I just sit down on it. Is this due to my weight and also being used to a new leftover 2010 CRF450? Is it due to it being clapped out? Or a mix of both? What should I do to the rear shock... service it with oil and adjust the clickers, or do I need a new spring?
-There is a slight leak coming from the drain bolt.. the fluid is pinkish in color. If I wipe the bottom of the drain bolt with a paper towl, I get a pinkish residue. Does this sound like tranny fluid? What are the chances this is just a washer deal? There is also another small leak coming from the powervalve breather tube, but I feel like this drippage is normal.
-The bike will not shift into neutral from first gear, only if you go to second and then half a click down. The bike hit a false neutral on me one time during the test ride. I haven't rode it since as I want to fix everything before I take it out on the track. Is this the faulty shift stopper that plagued the 05/06 125s? What are the chances there is permanent damage from the bearings possibly breaking loose? What do I need to do when replacing the shift stopper to make sure everything is kosher and I don't have any metal floating around where it shouldn't?
-The bike has ZERO low end... it almost bogs anytime you aren't on the pipe, and I'm partly sure this is just due to it being a 125, but wanted to make sure.
I purchased the bike knowing I'd have to sink in a few hundred dollars to get it where I want. I want to clean it up and have a reliable bike that I can make my everyday ripper. I want to do it right! I will be doing the mechanical portion first, followed by new restyled plastics/graphics.
I'm stoked!!!!! Hope I don't get too carried away.. :devil:
The 450 is awesome and the power is plentiful.. unfortunately the power is plentiful. The throttle is super sensitive and it takes a smooth (read, experienced) rider to be able to ride it without being over his head 80% of the time. I don't have as much fun riding since I'm always in the low end of the power (can't feel like I'm letting loose and just ripping) and I'm not a fan of the engine braking as it doesn't exactly build confidence in the air when you momentarily let off the throttle and start to endo.
I also don't like the weight of the bike.. even though I'm 6'1 185lbs, I sometimes feel like I'm dead sailing in the air. Can't really adjust the position mid-air too much, at least at my riding level.
Enter last friday... I drove 3 hours each way to go pick up a relatively clean 05 YZ 125 and I am absolutely THRILLED to have picked it up. I will be able to rip into the meat of the power on this bike, and while I may not be going anywhere, I'll surely feel like I am.
The only downfalls are:
-The suspension (especially the rear shock) is like a couch.. it sinks so much when I just sit down on it. Is this due to my weight and also being used to a new leftover 2010 CRF450? Is it due to it being clapped out? Or a mix of both? What should I do to the rear shock... service it with oil and adjust the clickers, or do I need a new spring?
-There is a slight leak coming from the drain bolt.. the fluid is pinkish in color. If I wipe the bottom of the drain bolt with a paper towl, I get a pinkish residue. Does this sound like tranny fluid? What are the chances this is just a washer deal? There is also another small leak coming from the powervalve breather tube, but I feel like this drippage is normal.
-The bike will not shift into neutral from first gear, only if you go to second and then half a click down. The bike hit a false neutral on me one time during the test ride. I haven't rode it since as I want to fix everything before I take it out on the track. Is this the faulty shift stopper that plagued the 05/06 125s? What are the chances there is permanent damage from the bearings possibly breaking loose? What do I need to do when replacing the shift stopper to make sure everything is kosher and I don't have any metal floating around where it shouldn't?
-The bike has ZERO low end... it almost bogs anytime you aren't on the pipe, and I'm partly sure this is just due to it being a 125, but wanted to make sure.
I purchased the bike knowing I'd have to sink in a few hundred dollars to get it where I want. I want to clean it up and have a reliable bike that I can make my everyday ripper. I want to do it right! I will be doing the mechanical portion first, followed by new restyled plastics/graphics.
I'm stoked!!!!! Hope I don't get too carried away.. :devil:
Suspension will needs springs for your weight, and may as well do an oil change. The next year, the '06 and newer got the SSS KYB's, and they are slightly better, but your stuff is still good.
Do you have a budget for the 125? Consider pulling it down for a project bike!
As for the drain bolt, they use a copper crush washer that is really only a 1 time use. That said, I usually can make them last 5+ oil changes without worry. Change the oil, and see why it's pink. Either it has coolant in the oil, or the oil is some weird type..(Could be ATF, hence the pink colour).
Bogging: This is normal as well as long as it isn't totally cutting out/dying. You will learn that in corners, especially slower ones, if you are in the perfect gear and slip the clutch even slightly, you'll be able to stay in the power quite well.
Extra bogging could be due to jetting as well, assuming you don't have other issues like iginition trouble/cracked reeds/sticky powervalve/air leaks/etc.
Suspension: This makes sense to me as you are 185 and stock yz springs are probably workable til 160lb or so give or take a few lbs.
Leaks:
1 The breather hose having black oily residue leaking out is definitely normal.
2 I'd get a new crush washer for the drain bolt (or maybe even a new bolt/washer if it looks shitty). Some tranny oil is red (Like Honda HP) so this could very well be normal and you just have a minor leak issue.
Enjoy!
I really do want to build the perfect 125 but not I want to get into it for more than $600 or so in parts!! Feasible?? I can always get it dialed in pretty close and then add more trick parts as I go.. levers etc. I want to get it mechanically solid first, then suspension, then the comfort/style pieces.
Currently this is what I have planned for the following:
Fix leak (hopefully $50)
Shift stopper fix (part 20, 50 labor)
Dial in rear shock (via service or spring) $150
New bars (probably pro tapers, $70)
New renthal compound grips ($20)
New plastics (restyle kit $180)
Graphics/numbers $100
Seth 505: I feel you on that! I have a corporate career 8-5 m-f and can't ride more than once per week.. so it's nice to be able to shred and not die the next day! haha. So do I absolutely need a new spring? Should I just do that and not service it? If I have to choose one or the other due to cost, would you choose servicing it (oil, seals, etc) and dialing in the clickers or throwing on a new spring?
The Shop
Fixing the leak should be 10$ tops.
I don't remember the colour of gear saver - some people use ATF, some use rotella, some use highend stuff.
Use what you like. I'm a Rotella or Bel Ray Gear saver fan.
If you want to keep budget down as much as possible, try looking for used yz spring(s) online, stiffer than stock and then you can install them/change oil yourself.
Good luck,
As far as no pump gas.. really? What should I run? Would higher octane work ok with stock internals??
Any clue where to look for used springs? You guys are killin it with the helpfulness, haven't encountered a vitard yet!! I think it's due to only people that actually ride being in this thread haha
Had a 2005 YZ250 and feel like the '06 and later YZ legs are much better than the '05, stock for stock.
But everyone seems to be spot on in my mind. I would check your rear sag to make sure that is set. With it set properly you should be able to ride it fine for a while until you can get the cash to have the suspension re-sprung and re-built. Never used ATF or rotella or any other oils besides the Yamalube recommendations and my 03 ran perfect for 10 years until I cracked the casings. That being said, make sure the chain slack is on the looser side of the interval. Those motor casings had a habit of cracking at the drive bearing after a while if the chain was too tight.
I only raced a 125 a couple of times and at 180 pounds with no gear I think I need more power BUT I am intrigued to see what is so appealing to riding a 125. Hope I get to find out some day.
I had the exact same thing as you with the bogging issue the first time I rode the bike this past Spring. Most people tried to tell me this was normal, but I knew otherwise having owned the bike for a couple years. It happened out of no where, and all of a sudden it had no power until you hit the power band. It turned out the power valve was stuck open. I cleaned it and problem solved. For a 125 this bike actually has pretty smooth power. It should not be like a light switch.
Also, mine runs great on 91 octane non oxy. Definitely replace your shift stopper ASAP, and have your suspension rebuilt with the proper springs. This will probably run you about $500 for the rebuild, and another $200 or so for springs.
It made me feel like I had eaten a case of Viagra and was wearing a red cape.
Nothing makes me giggle like my YZ125.
If I had a need of a second bike...I'd pick one up to go with my 250 two-stroke any day! Hands down.
Shane
I describe my '06 YZ125 as a 250 with a worn-out top end.
Very smooth and linear power for a 125, especially when you came up on the old air-cooled tiddlers. My ported, big-carbed '78 YZ125 was a light switch.
The last 125 I had before this was an '88 CR125 - all I can say is "You've come a long way baby".
Welcome to the club.
Pit Row
Check the clutch while you are in there doing the shift stopper. Unlike most bikes that notch the outer basket, the YZ125 likes to notch the inner hub. The steel plates dig easily into the soft cast aluminum hub. Luckily, the hub only costs like 30 bucks. The Hinson is 300 bucks. For that price I can get 10 stockers. Been through 3 already.
Yes, at 185 you need stiffer springs. The bike will feel like a mushy low rider until you get the springs right. Getting the suspension fresh and the springs right will greatly enhance the effect of a 125 to make you feel like a superhero.
Stick to 32:1. The bike runs great like this and you'll have plenty of oil for engine protection when you start wringing the piss out of it.
And Crash, I would like to but am a bit intimidated on messing something up.
Also, you may or may not need to service your suspension. It's not a bad idea either way, but might not be necessary. Start by setting the sag and resetting the suspension clickers to default, then give it a try.
And everyone has a first time at something. Maybe you can find someone competent who will help guide you while you gain experience and confidence.
If the bike will shift fine right now, then you probably have not lost the roller. If there are shifting issues, then it is probably gone.
As far as being intimidated, you always have to take the risk of failing at anything in life to get anywhere. Being scared and not trying anything new doesn't get you anywhere. But that really is a pretty easy fix. Take the inner clutch cover off, pull the clutch plate screws out, pull out pressure plate and clutch plates, remove nut from clutch basket and remove basket (this is where you need the holder), 1 bolt to pull out the shift stopper (use loctite on reinstall) and reinstall in opposite order. New gasket for cover and new bent washer for clutch basket recommended. Torque everything to the spec in manual.
If it has been replaced then you won't know if it failed prior to replacement unless there is obvious damage to parts done from loose ball bearings getting jammed between them.
I replaced mine as soon as I got the bike because of previous reports on the issue.
Do some research. My 2cents.
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