KTM having reliable issues with the tiddler?

DrSweden
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Edited Date/Time 4/10/2013 5:56am
Maybe isolated and they are pretty damn common these days, I assume it's inevitable more stories popping up. But in this smokers vs bangers debate I got a bit annoyed hearing from my avid smoker buddy (TM144 owner), who spoke with two people the same day at the same track this Sunday complaining about their KTM 2013: 125s had multiple break downs despite low hours (one of the riders was a girl, so I assume low stress on the engine). They guy needed three rebuilds during the first 25h on his 2013. KTM was baffled. I don't know in what they got damaged, but sounded like sizing with piston failure, or rod bearing?

A discussion that has emerged related to this, is it that they have changed the gas in Sweden, so even the high octane pump gas (98,5-99) now consists of 5 % ethanol, which If I understand it blends badly with two stroke oil?

So I have two discussion points here.

Some of you know I'm a avid smoker fan, so it pains me to bring this up! Pinch
|
seth505
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4/3/2013 1:52pm
All I can comment on is that I mix in some vp c12 with my pump gas for my yz and rm. not to give them more HP but to aid against shitty/inconsistent pump gas.
newmann
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4/3/2013 1:57pm
The first potential problem I would look for is if the air filter was always properly seated when being fastened back in place. Definitely a little bit of a pain in the ass. Very easy to suck dirt and that will kill a 2 smoke in record time.
newmann
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4/3/2013 1:59pm
About the alcohol content in the fuel, one of my customers ruined a trick fiberglass fuel tank with an ethanol content fuel. Melted the damn tank. Blush
DrSweden
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4/3/2013 2:05pm
seth505 wrote:
All I can comment on is that I mix in some vp c12 with my pump gas for my yz and rm. not to give them...
All I can comment on is that I mix in some vp c12 with my pump gas for my yz and rm. not to give them more HP but to aid against shitty/inconsistent pump gas.
Will not solve the ethanol and oil mismatch? If that's an issue I mean?

The Shop

DrSweden
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4/3/2013 2:16pm Edited Date/Time 4/3/2013 2:16pm
newmann wrote:
The first potential problem I would look for is if the air filter was always properly seated when being fastened back in place. Definitely a little...
The first potential problem I would look for is if the air filter was always properly seated when being fastened back in place. Definitely a little bit of a pain in the ass. Very easy to suck dirt and that will kill a 2 smoke in record time.
Ok, at this point, I can't rule out anything. Maybe not the issue, but some are really annoyed, stressed about jetting, especially TM-owners since they are being told by TM to change repeatably depending on humidity, elevation and temperature, otherwise they risk break downs as well. This anxiety forced my buddy to buy on of those smartcarbs.

I feel my old 2006 YZ has damn good power, runs good in all conditions without hesitation, from summer to winter. Haven't changed shit. So I wonder if there's some fucked up engineering going on that makes some engines to be way to sensitive to jetting, risk of break downs while other engines just puffs on?

I remember having a crappy CR125 2002 that was pretty beat up, had at least 150 hours, knew nothing about bearings, just put a new piston in and run the sucker for 40 hours without any issues what so ever (sold it, kept going)...
4/3/2013 2:30pm
DrSweden wrote:
Ok, at this point, I can't rule out anything. Maybe not the issue, but some are really annoyed, stressed about jetting, especially TM-owners since they are...
Ok, at this point, I can't rule out anything. Maybe not the issue, but some are really annoyed, stressed about jetting, especially TM-owners since they are being told by TM to change repeatably depending on humidity, elevation and temperature, otherwise they risk break downs as well. This anxiety forced my buddy to buy on of those smartcarbs.

I feel my old 2006 YZ has damn good power, runs good in all conditions without hesitation, from summer to winter. Haven't changed shit. So I wonder if there's some fucked up engineering going on that makes some engines to be way to sensitive to jetting, risk of break downs while other engines just puffs on?

I remember having a crappy CR125 2002 that was pretty beat up, had at least 150 hours, knew nothing about bearings, just put a new piston in and run the sucker for 40 hours without any issues what so ever (sold it, kept going)...
If you are serious about having a crisp bike, you should be changing your jetting every 10deg and/or 1,000 feet. Jetting is not a pain or problem, and shouldn't be treated like that. Once you become proficient at it, you can do it at your house, in the morning before you leave, when your bike is clean and youve checked the forecast. When I'm at the track, the only adjustment I have to make is a 1/4 turn +/- on the airscrew, at MOST a needle clip. Keeping a log book helps, too.

Smartcarbs are a complete joke. Nothing but empty promises by a tiny company taking FULL PRICE pre-orders for a carb they can not even afford to pre-produce. I just do not trust a company that doesn't have enough money in the bank to make 200-300 of the things BEFORE they start hyping them all over the internet and taking people's money.

the newest version of the Lectron is even better than APT's carb, is available, cheaper, and has a trick see-thru floatbowl. Not to mention that the name has been around for 40 years.
4/3/2013 2:32pm
seth505 wrote:
All I can comment on is that I mix in some vp c12 with my pump gas for my yz and rm. not to give them...
All I can comment on is that I mix in some vp c12 with my pump gas for my yz and rm. not to give them more HP but to aid against shitty/inconsistent pump gas.
I heard this does nothing but ruin your race fuel?
AS64
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4/3/2013 2:59pm
If you are serious about having a crisp bike, you should be changing your jetting every 10deg and/or 1,000 feet. Jetting is not a pain or...
If you are serious about having a crisp bike, you should be changing your jetting every 10deg and/or 1,000 feet. Jetting is not a pain or problem, and shouldn't be treated like that. Once you become proficient at it, you can do it at your house, in the morning before you leave, when your bike is clean and youve checked the forecast. When I'm at the track, the only adjustment I have to make is a 1/4 turn +/- on the airscrew, at MOST a needle clip. Keeping a log book helps, too.

Smartcarbs are a complete joke. Nothing but empty promises by a tiny company taking FULL PRICE pre-orders for a carb they can not even afford to pre-produce. I just do not trust a company that doesn't have enough money in the bank to make 200-300 of the things BEFORE they start hyping them all over the internet and taking people's money.

the newest version of the Lectron is even better than APT's carb, is available, cheaper, and has a trick see-thru floatbowl. Not to mention that the name has been around for 40 years.
I've heard nothing but great things about the SmartCarb. I agree the company is a bit shady but from what I have read everyone loves the product. Care to elaborate or point me in the right direction where I can see proof that the new Lectron is indeed better than the APT SmartCarb? I am just about to jump the gun and preorder. Thanks.
mxtech1
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4/3/2013 3:57pm
Off road motorcycles are a tough market for manufactures. It is tough to warranty or prove a machine contained manufacturing defects due to the extreme nature of offroad riding. One should just assume that once they roll that bike out of the dealership, it is their responsibility for all repairs and longevity. It is very difficult as a consumer to build a business case to prove that the manufacturer has defects in their product. Your best scenario in situations like this is a good relationship with your dealer and hope they will help you out with parts and repair.
burn1986
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4/3/2013 4:15pm
Too bad, maybe they need to get YZs.
Jakes Dad
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4/3/2013 4:16pm
Cylinder head to cylinder machining issues. Insert type head fits down into cylinder, poor tolerances (all over the place) causing head seal problems.

Plenty of friends we race in Schoolboy 1 have been having this problem.
Contact www.tdc2strokeperformance to get proper machining and squish set.
burn1986
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4/3/2013 8:09pm Edited Date/Time 4/4/2013 5:55am
I think MXA mentioned the air filter seat thing (like Newmann mentioned). It's hard to see on the blind edge if the air filter
seth505
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4/3/2013 9:12pm
seth505 wrote:
All I can comment on is that I mix in some vp c12 with my pump gas for my yz and rm. not to give them...
All I can comment on is that I mix in some vp c12 with my pump gas for my yz and rm. not to give them more HP but to aid against shitty/inconsistent pump gas.
I heard this does nothing but ruin your race fuel?
Hmm cant say for sure im 100% im doing the right thing but mentioned it to a good engine builder and he said sure good idea.
PaleBlue
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4/4/2013 2:14am
DrSweden wrote:
Ok, at this point, I can't rule out anything. Maybe not the issue, but some are really annoyed, stressed about jetting, especially TM-owners since they are...
Ok, at this point, I can't rule out anything. Maybe not the issue, but some are really annoyed, stressed about jetting, especially TM-owners since they are being told by TM to change repeatably depending on humidity, elevation and temperature, otherwise they risk break downs as well. This anxiety forced my buddy to buy on of those smartcarbs.

I feel my old 2006 YZ has damn good power, runs good in all conditions without hesitation, from summer to winter. Haven't changed shit. So I wonder if there's some fucked up engineering going on that makes some engines to be way to sensitive to jetting, risk of break downs while other engines just puffs on?

I remember having a crappy CR125 2002 that was pretty beat up, had at least 150 hours, knew nothing about bearings, just put a new piston in and run the sucker for 40 hours without any issues what so ever (sold it, kept going)...
If you are serious about having a crisp bike, you should be changing your jetting every 10deg and/or 1,000 feet. Jetting is not a pain or...
If you are serious about having a crisp bike, you should be changing your jetting every 10deg and/or 1,000 feet. Jetting is not a pain or problem, and shouldn't be treated like that. Once you become proficient at it, you can do it at your house, in the morning before you leave, when your bike is clean and youve checked the forecast. When I'm at the track, the only adjustment I have to make is a 1/4 turn +/- on the airscrew, at MOST a needle clip. Keeping a log book helps, too.

Smartcarbs are a complete joke. Nothing but empty promises by a tiny company taking FULL PRICE pre-orders for a carb they can not even afford to pre-produce. I just do not trust a company that doesn't have enough money in the bank to make 200-300 of the things BEFORE they start hyping them all over the internet and taking people's money.

the newest version of the Lectron is even better than APT's carb, is available, cheaper, and has a trick see-thru floatbowl. Not to mention that the name has been around for 40 years.
TJ you forgot to add to change for track type too. Sand tracks will need a much bigger main than hard pack. Anyone not checking their jetting each time out is not only risking trouble but also rarely getting the best from the bike. We run TMs too but this applies to all two strokes ( road racers on 2ts would be laughing their socks off at anyone who didn't check their jetting each time they rode),
themrtoad
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4/4/2013 2:42am
DrSweden wrote:
Maybe isolated and they are pretty damn common these days, I assume it's inevitable more stories popping up. But in this smokers vs bangers debate I...
Maybe isolated and they are pretty damn common these days, I assume it's inevitable more stories popping up. But in this smokers vs bangers debate I got a bit annoyed hearing from my avid smoker buddy (TM144 owner), who spoke with two people the same day at the same track this Sunday complaining about their KTM 2013: 125s had multiple break downs despite low hours (one of the riders was a girl, so I assume low stress on the engine). They guy needed three rebuilds during the first 25h on his 2013. KTM was baffled. I don't know in what they got damaged, but sounded like sizing with piston failure, or rod bearing?

A discussion that has emerged related to this, is it that they have changed the gas in Sweden, so even the high octane pump gas (98,5-99) now consists of 5 % ethanol, which If I understand it blends badly with two stroke oil?

So I have two discussion points here.

Some of you know I'm a avid smoker fan, so it pains me to bring this up! Pinch
I think Statoil has the best fuel for twostrokes. My buddies that rides more often only fill their tanks there. They claim they have less or none ethanol in their 98. I googled it and it seems to be true actually. I don't think that's the reasons for all the breakdowns though...but that's just a feeling...It's hard to be a twostrokewarrior these days!
DrSweden
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4/4/2013 2:49pm
themrtoad wrote:
I think Statoil has the best fuel for twostrokes. My buddies that rides more often only fill their tanks there. They claim they have less or...
I think Statoil has the best fuel for twostrokes. My buddies that rides more often only fill their tanks there. They claim they have less or none ethanol in their 98. I googled it and it seems to be true actually. I don't think that's the reasons for all the breakdowns though...but that's just a feeling...It's hard to be a twostrokewarrior these days!
Tnx for that. I will for sure use them!!! Will you attend the Swedish GP?
4/4/2013 2:56pm
DrSweden wrote:
Ok, at this point, I can't rule out anything. Maybe not the issue, but some are really annoyed, stressed about jetting, especially TM-owners since they are...
Ok, at this point, I can't rule out anything. Maybe not the issue, but some are really annoyed, stressed about jetting, especially TM-owners since they are being told by TM to change repeatably depending on humidity, elevation and temperature, otherwise they risk break downs as well. This anxiety forced my buddy to buy on of those smartcarbs.

I feel my old 2006 YZ has damn good power, runs good in all conditions without hesitation, from summer to winter. Haven't changed shit. So I wonder if there's some fucked up engineering going on that makes some engines to be way to sensitive to jetting, risk of break downs while other engines just puffs on?

I remember having a crappy CR125 2002 that was pretty beat up, had at least 150 hours, knew nothing about bearings, just put a new piston in and run the sucker for 40 hours without any issues what so ever (sold it, kept going)...
If you are serious about having a crisp bike, you should be changing your jetting every 10deg and/or 1,000 feet. Jetting is not a pain or...
If you are serious about having a crisp bike, you should be changing your jetting every 10deg and/or 1,000 feet. Jetting is not a pain or problem, and shouldn't be treated like that. Once you become proficient at it, you can do it at your house, in the morning before you leave, when your bike is clean and youve checked the forecast. When I'm at the track, the only adjustment I have to make is a 1/4 turn +/- on the airscrew, at MOST a needle clip. Keeping a log book helps, too.

Smartcarbs are a complete joke. Nothing but empty promises by a tiny company taking FULL PRICE pre-orders for a carb they can not even afford to pre-produce. I just do not trust a company that doesn't have enough money in the bank to make 200-300 of the things BEFORE they start hyping them all over the internet and taking people's money.

the newest version of the Lectron is even better than APT's carb, is available, cheaper, and has a trick see-thru floatbowl. Not to mention that the name has been around for 40 years.
PaleBlue wrote:
TJ you forgot to add to change for track type too. Sand tracks will need a much bigger main than hard pack. Anyone not checking their...
TJ you forgot to add to change for track type too. Sand tracks will need a much bigger main than hard pack. Anyone not checking their jetting each time out is not only risking trouble but also rarely getting the best from the bike. We run TMs too but this applies to all two strokes ( road racers on 2ts would be laughing their socks off at anyone who didn't check their jetting each time they rode),
How do you do that? I ride a 150sx but I couldn't tell you a thing about jetting I don't understand it at all....
4/4/2013 2:58pm
DrSweden wrote:
Maybe isolated and they are pretty damn common these days, I assume it's inevitable more stories popping up. But in this smokers vs bangers debate I...
Maybe isolated and they are pretty damn common these days, I assume it's inevitable more stories popping up. But in this smokers vs bangers debate I got a bit annoyed hearing from my avid smoker buddy (TM144 owner), who spoke with two people the same day at the same track this Sunday complaining about their KTM 2013: 125s had multiple break downs despite low hours (one of the riders was a girl, so I assume low stress on the engine). They guy needed three rebuilds during the first 25h on his 2013. KTM was baffled. I don't know in what they got damaged, but sounded like sizing with piston failure, or rod bearing?

A discussion that has emerged related to this, is it that they have changed the gas in Sweden, so even the high octane pump gas (98,5-99) now consists of 5 % ethanol, which If I understand it blends badly with two stroke oil?

So I have two discussion points here.

Some of you know I'm a avid smoker fan, so it pains me to bring this up! Pinch
themrtoad wrote:
I think Statoil has the best fuel for twostrokes. My buddies that rides more often only fill their tanks there. They claim they have less or...
I think Statoil has the best fuel for twostrokes. My buddies that rides more often only fill their tanks there. They claim they have less or none ethanol in their 98. I googled it and it seems to be true actually. I don't think that's the reasons for all the breakdowns though...but that's just a feeling...It's hard to be a twostrokewarrior these days!
Thats actually true.
When I was into tuning BMW 335 twinturbo engines I know a guy on that forum who did several tests on fuel in Sweden and Statoils 98 was always the winner.
The worst one with the most amounts of ethanol in it was the V-power 99 okt.
I know several persons who have siezed their bikes by using V-power.
I cant prove that it was the fuel but some of them said it was because of it.
(They switched fuel and have never had a problem since then)

Ask theese persons if they used V-power Doc.
Maybe its a red line there.
I have also heard that they use more ethanol in the winter but I dont know if its true.
4/4/2013 4:11pm Edited Date/Time 4/4/2013 4:12pm
How do you do that? I ride a 150sx but I couldn't tell you a thing about jetting I don't understand it at all....
you're kidding, right? What a shame. Jetting is where most of the power and all of the ridability is. Your post makes my heart hurt.
kijen
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4/4/2013 5:13pm
How do you do that? I ride a 150sx but I couldn't tell you a thing about jetting I don't understand it at all....
you're kidding, right? What a shame. Jetting is where most of the power and all of the ridability is. Your post makes my heart hurt.
damn, cut the guy some slack, everbody was a beginner once....
burn1986
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4/4/2013 7:58pm
How do you do that? I ride a 150sx but I couldn't tell you a thing about jetting I don't understand it at all....
The first thing to do is read MXA,s test on your bike. Then get a shop manual or see if you can find a Clymer manual for it. This will tell you everything you need to know.
newmann
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4/4/2013 8:20pm
How do you do that? I ride a 150sx but I couldn't tell you a thing about jetting I don't understand it at all....
Do some googling on it and study up a bit. That's some good knowledge to have. Everytime I build a bike it's like starting over for me. Gotta go dig out my notes and refresh the old memory. I'm not real good at it but can usually get it pretty damn close.
Lone Wolf
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4/4/2013 8:21pm Edited Date/Time 4/5/2013 2:06am
newmann wrote:
The first potential problem I would look for is if the air filter was always properly seated when being fastened back in place. Definitely a little...
The first potential problem I would look for is if the air filter was always properly seated when being fastened back in place. Definitely a little bit of a pain in the ass. Very easy to suck dirt and that will kill a 2 smoke in record time.
I have heard that KTM air filters are a bit tricky. A guy I know bought a new 350 when they first came out and had the dealership service it after 2.5 hours. They screwed up the filter installation and after a further two hours it blew up. The shop told him to pound sand because he hadn't checked the filter every half hour as specified in the manual.

Keep in mind that this is the owners version of events, so it might not be the whole truth.
RACERX69
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4/4/2013 8:33pm
newmann wrote:
The first potential problem I would look for is if the air filter was always properly seated when being fastened back in place. Definitely a little...
The first potential problem I would look for is if the air filter was always properly seated when being fastened back in place. Definitely a little bit of a pain in the ass. Very easy to suck dirt and that will kill a 2 smoke in record time.
My buddy seized his new 250 SX due to that very issue.
themrtoad
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4/5/2013 3:32am
DrSweden wrote:
Tnx for that. I will for sure use them!!! Will you attend the Swedish GP?
I'm always there. Are you going too?
DrSweden
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4/5/2013 11:22am
themrtoad wrote:
I'm always there. Are you going too?
That's the goal. We have to hook up, use FB for further contact?
4/5/2013 11:41am
I mean I understand what it is I'm pretty mechanical I do all of my top end changes. My local shop owner (SMS racing) showed me how to do it. It's just like how I'm in school right now learning college algebra if you've never seen it or had someone explain it to you how would you know how to do it?

I understand the pilot jet is at low rpm's and main jet is wide open. I'm just saying I don't know how to move the needle or wtf shit like NOZI mean or when it's cold to go larger or smaller. I love learning so if you wanna give me some info I'm all ears.
Suns_PSD
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4/5/2013 12:06pm
KTM 144s have a bit of history of blowing up and there are a lot of stories about them. KTM in later years altered the ignition timing and some port stuff where the ring tended to snag. I know a Novice local kid just killed his 150 as well but it was still only like $180 to repair.

Really a 125cc 2 stroke isn't as super reliable to operate as some guess because they are in such a high state of tune. Your cost for fuel also increases significantly. If you want inexpensive to operate, 250SX is where it's at.

As far as jetting goes, that activity sucks holy donkey balls. I can do it, but I hate working on the bike and spilling $12/ gallon leaded race fuel all over my hands at the track when I should be working on my riding technique. Fortunately the APT Smartcarb makes jetting a 2 stroke a thing of the past.
DrSweden
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4/5/2013 1:14pm
Suns_PSD wrote:
KTM 144s have a bit of history of blowing up and there are a lot of stories about them. KTM in later years altered the ignition...
KTM 144s have a bit of history of blowing up and there are a lot of stories about them. KTM in later years altered the ignition timing and some port stuff where the ring tended to snag. I know a Novice local kid just killed his 150 as well but it was still only like $180 to repair.

Really a 125cc 2 stroke isn't as super reliable to operate as some guess because they are in such a high state of tune. Your cost for fuel also increases significantly. If you want inexpensive to operate, 250SX is where it's at.

As far as jetting goes, that activity sucks holy donkey balls. I can do it, but I hate working on the bike and spilling $12/ gallon leaded race fuel all over my hands at the track when I should be working on my riding technique. Fortunately the APT Smartcarb makes jetting a 2 stroke a thing of the past.
Ok. Almost sounds like a banger is less of an issue? Strange thing is that I have newer in my life changed jettings on any of my bikes, and I newer experienced engine issues. I'm not slowest on track either...

I don't get it...
Fredrik
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4/8/2013 12:13am
DrSweden wrote:
Maybe isolated and they are pretty damn common these days, I assume it's inevitable more stories popping up. But in this smokers vs bangers debate I...
Maybe isolated and they are pretty damn common these days, I assume it's inevitable more stories popping up. But in this smokers vs bangers debate I got a bit annoyed hearing from my avid smoker buddy (TM144 owner), who spoke with two people the same day at the same track this Sunday complaining about their KTM 2013: 125s had multiple break downs despite low hours (one of the riders was a girl, so I assume low stress on the engine). They guy needed three rebuilds during the first 25h on his 2013. KTM was baffled. I don't know in what they got damaged, but sounded like sizing with piston failure, or rod bearing?

A discussion that has emerged related to this, is it that they have changed the gas in Sweden, so even the high octane pump gas (98,5-99) now consists of 5 % ethanol, which If I understand it blends badly with two stroke oil?

So I have two discussion points here.

Some of you know I'm a avid smoker fan, so it pains me to bring this up! Pinch
themrtoad wrote:
I think Statoil has the best fuel for twostrokes. My buddies that rides more often only fill their tanks there. They claim they have less or...
I think Statoil has the best fuel for twostrokes. My buddies that rides more often only fill their tanks there. They claim they have less or none ethanol in their 98. I googled it and it seems to be true actually. I don't think that's the reasons for all the breakdowns though...but that's just a feeling...It's hard to be a twostrokewarrior these days!
Thats actually true. When I was into tuning BMW 335 twinturbo engines I know a guy on that forum who did several tests on fuel in...
Thats actually true.
When I was into tuning BMW 335 twinturbo engines I know a guy on that forum who did several tests on fuel in Sweden and Statoils 98 was always the winner.
The worst one with the most amounts of ethanol in it was the V-power 99 okt.
I know several persons who have siezed their bikes by using V-power.
I cant prove that it was the fuel but some of them said it was because of it.
(They switched fuel and have never had a problem since then)

Ask theese persons if they used V-power Doc.
Maybe its a red line there.
I have also heard that they use more ethanol in the winter but I dont know if its true.
The KTM owner that DR:sweden was reffering to have been using Shell V-power 99 in the past when it was pure gas whitout any problems, but since June 2011 the V-power gas is now 98,2 octane and whit a mix of 5% ethanol. They went back to unleaded 95 octane but if you read on the label the 95 here in Sweden also contains 5% ethanol.

Statoils 98 octane here in Sweden has now been labeled as miles 98 and now also contains 5% ethanol. Some people claims that they have done som tests and the ethanol mix is higher than the gas companies claims it is, sometimes almost up to 15%. They say that they do this to minimise the emissions of carbon dioxide but they do save alot of money and every extra % is alot of cash in return.

I had some Shell V-power in a VP gas tank and the rubber seal in the cap got enlarged and started to melt and did not seal anymore, that is what ethanol do to rubber.... Ethanol also sinks to the bottom of the gastank when it has been standing still for awhile and it also mixes up poorly whit the 2-stroke oil.

Here is some videos, sorry for the Swedish languages but the test is from the left between unleaded 95, Shell V-power and Aspen racing fuel.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pFsKStvXcio
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XTPU7ffNqFA

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