Posts
6
Joined
9/1/2017
Location
Penrose, CO
US
Edited Date/Time
9/3/2017 8:44am
I've had my cr125 for a few years now and it was definitely lacking power. The person who I bought it from didn't know how many hours were on the top end but said i should probably rebuild it. So I finally decided to do it and so I replaced the piston, ring, gaskets and the bearing and put it all back together. I then did two heat cycles at idol and then rode it easy for ten minutes. Figured that was solid to let everything seat and break in so I took it out again and got in the throttle and it's still just not all there. I decided to do a compression test and it was only 100psi. Do you think my cylinder needs redone?
What does "not all there mean"? Top/bottom/won't rev out/bogs?
Best break in is one warm up to make sure everything is in correctly and then run it medium hard for a moto. Better ring seal. Heat cycles are for sleeved cylinders.
There is no way to diagnose over the web. These CR125's needed a few things to wake them up obviously mtor needs to be running correctly first-
05+ airboot
38mm Keihin Airstryker carb
5mm exhaust spacer helps a bit to regain low end from bigger carb
03 KX125 pipe modded to fit
If you want more power find an older HPP cylinder
If that is truly your compression you have an issue but every guage reads differently. I had one that always read low no matter what...........
The Shop
Do I have to pull the the side of my case to adjust it?
Awesome for you to give it a go!
Go to Race Tech Help/Race Shop forum
EDIT: Oh yeah, nice retainer "clip". Replace immediately... Tranny/drive at peril. Do not let that little "clip" fall into the opening below it! Get a rag and cover the opening below it! NOW! You can do this!
"Tongue in Cheek"... Please take no real offense! LOL! Just a "selfie" during a recent rebuild.
Let us head over to the other forum and help the OP...
I had an 01 and it took quite a bit of work to wake it up. I have a 36mm PWK that I had on mine, been trying to sell it to a CR owner for a while now haha.
On a side note... a one inch lowering link on the back and raising the forks 3/4 inch in the clamps with dramatically improve the handling of that bike.
When the mechanical RC/Power Valve weeps spooge like that into the cover area, it is 99% because carbon buildup has forced its way outward and abrasively eroded the seals and robs performance. Look and the retainer clip and head nut... Not the work of anyone competent.
Piston sizing? Squish? Ring gap? We all have our own "special" methods. I prefer actual measurements... Not being an asshole here. Makers provide specifications for a reason.
Every top end replacement should include RC/Power Valve cleaning at minimum to ensure top performance. YMMV.
Pit Row
Moderately surprised that "Loots" or "Yep" hasn't kicked me in the teeth in this thread...
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