Full Tilt CR250 Build - MXA Two Stroke Hall of Fame

dbrunski125 12/24/2015 4:01am
12/24/2015 4:01am
blackdiamond wrote:
RCS
Nice I bought one for my build as well. Guts racing was also pretty sweet and made me a custom phantom foam seat (similar to think technologies seat foam) for my rm 125. Ride engineering makes awesome triple clamps that are lighter then stock as well. Shave some more weight off
dbrunski125 12/24/2015 4:12am
12/24/2015 4:12am
Empty Pockets wrote:
Looks beautiful, can't wait to see this done, where did you get the tank and dare i ask how much ? Any info on the shock...
Looks beautiful, can't wait to see this done, where did you get the tank and dare i ask how much ?

Any info on the shock swap that you're willing to share, what did you do to get it on there, change the length, linkage etc ?
blackdiamond wrote:
It basically required a slightly longer shock shaft, a small internal spacer and a modified Showa end cap on the shock body to bring all the...
It basically required a slightly longer shock shaft, a small internal spacer and a modified Showa end cap on the shock body to bring all the dimensions into spec (yes I said Showa end cap on a KYB shock). Graeme Brough was responsible for all of the mods on this and I wouldn't have been able to do that part of this project without him. He is really good at custom stuff like this.

We also added a SDI elite shock clevis with a rebound adjuster because the stock rebound adjuster on these shocks is basically useless. The linkage is stock but was prepped by Justin at Motowhips. They remove all of the casting flashing from the knuckle and link and polish it to a satin finish. It looks really clean and actually cleans up much easier because the surface is much smoother. We did the same process on the rear brake pedal and kickstarter. The titanium linkage hardware is from RaceTech Titanium.

Below is a before and after shot of the linkage.







Could you explain how you removed the casting lines on your linkage and how you polished it up. Thay looks amazing. I want to do this to my linkage!

The Shop

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mattman631
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mattman631 12/24/2015 6:37am
12/24/2015 6:37am
dbrunski125 wrote:
Could you explain how you removed the casting lines on your linkage and how you polished it up. Thay looks amazing. I want to do this...
Could you explain how you removed the casting lines on your linkage and how you polished it up. Thay looks amazing. I want to do this to my linkage!
I think in an earlier post he mentioned he sent them to "Motowhips" for the race prep package. I have never personally sent anything to Motowhips but I follow them on FB and IG and they do some trick work!

As far as removing casting marks, I used a angle grinder with different grits of abrasive wheels (like sctochbrite pads)...however it did not turn out as well as I had hoped so im still trying to figure out the best way to do it
dbrunski125 12/24/2015 7:19am
12/24/2015 7:19am
dbrunski125 wrote:
Could you explain how you removed the casting lines on your linkage and how you polished it up. Thay looks amazing. I want to do this...
Could you explain how you removed the casting lines on your linkage and how you polished it up. Thay looks amazing. I want to do this to my linkage!
mattman631 wrote:
I think in an earlier post he mentioned he sent them to "Motowhips" for the race prep package. I have never personally sent anything to Motowhips...
I think in an earlier post he mentioned he sent them to "Motowhips" for the race prep package. I have never personally sent anything to Motowhips but I follow them on FB and IG and they do some trick work!

As far as removing casting marks, I used a angle grinder with different grits of abrasive wheels (like sctochbrite pads)...however it did not turn out as well as I had hoped so im still trying to figure out the best way to do it
Ah okay thanks. Gotta be some way to get thay finish lol
blackdiamond
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blackdiamond 12/24/2015 10:18am
12/24/2015 10:18am
blackdiamond wrote:
RCS
dbrunski125 wrote:
Nice I bought one for my build as well. Guts racing was also pretty sweet and made me a custom phantom foam seat (similar to think...
Nice I bought one for my build as well. Guts racing was also pretty sweet and made me a custom phantom foam seat (similar to think technologies seat foam) for my rm 125. Ride engineering makes awesome triple clamps that are lighter then stock as well. Shave some more weight off
How much lighter is that seat foam? I had Think Tech seat foam on a gen 5 Honda and it saved a full pound, pretty amazing.
blackdiamond
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blackdiamond 12/24/2015 11:04am
12/24/2015 11:04am
blackdiamond wrote:
RCS
dbrunski125 wrote:
Nice I bought one for my build as well. Guts racing was also pretty sweet and made me a custom phantom foam seat (similar to think...
Nice I bought one for my build as well. Guts racing was also pretty sweet and made me a custom phantom foam seat (similar to think technologies seat foam) for my rm 125. Ride engineering makes awesome triple clamps that are lighter then stock as well. Shave some more weight off
Going to run these 22mm Neken clamps. I had these on another bike I was riding and they were sweet.





dbrunski125 12/24/2015 11:15am
12/24/2015 11:15am
From everything I've read I would say that the guts phantom foam is about 60% of the weight savings of the thibk technologies seat foam. Although, I've read guts foam is longer lasting then the think technologies seat foam. I don't know how true this is though.

I went with guys because they were awesome and made me custom foam for my bike.

I saved about 1 lb. The previous owner ran a tall seat foam thay was probably a bit water logged from washing the bike. I would guess you'd save between .5 and .75 lbs with a guts phantom foam.

A lot of the top teams are using guts now. Rch, Yoshimura suzuki pro circuit etc....
blackdiamond
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blackdiamond 12/24/2015 11:24am
12/24/2015 11:24am
dbrunski125 wrote:
Could you explain how you removed the casting lines on your linkage and how you polished it up. Thay looks amazing. I want to do this...
Could you explain how you removed the casting lines on your linkage and how you polished it up. Thay looks amazing. I want to do this to my linkage!
mattman631 wrote:
I think in an earlier post he mentioned he sent them to "Motowhips" for the race prep package. I have never personally sent anything to Motowhips...
I think in an earlier post he mentioned he sent them to "Motowhips" for the race prep package. I have never personally sent anything to Motowhips but I follow them on FB and IG and they do some trick work!

As far as removing casting marks, I used a angle grinder with different grits of abrasive wheels (like sctochbrite pads)...however it did not turn out as well as I had hoped so im still trying to figure out the best way to do it
We did the same process on the rear brake pedal, you can see it in these pics. In the first photo you can see the rear master cylinder mods where the sight glass has been removed and welded shut like team Honda does on the factory bikes. I had CPR fabrications in OC help me with that.

The brake tip is from an old Yamaha. I wanted something a bit larger than the OEM Honda but wanted to keep the stock look so I found this one on eBay for $8 (it looked like shit) took a sanding roll to it, drilled some cool looking holes in it and then had it nickel plated with some other stuff I was getting done at the time. I think it turned out pretty cool.





The brake tip is held on with a titanium chain-ring bolt from a road bicycle. They are a 10mm shouldered bolt with really fine threads, perfect for something like this.



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blackdiamond
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blackdiamond 12/24/2015 11:29am
12/24/2015 11:29am
dbrunski125 wrote:
From everything I've read I would say that the guts phantom foam is about 60% of the weight savings of the thibk technologies seat foam. Although...
From everything I've read I would say that the guts phantom foam is about 60% of the weight savings of the thibk technologies seat foam. Although, I've read guts foam is longer lasting then the think technologies seat foam. I don't know how true this is though.

I went with guys because they were awesome and made me custom foam for my bike.

I saved about 1 lb. The previous owner ran a tall seat foam thay was probably a bit water logged from washing the bike. I would guess you'd save between .5 and .75 lbs with a guts phantom foam.

A lot of the top teams are using guts now. Rch, Yoshimura suzuki pro circuit etc....
That info parallels what I had read in a few other posts somewhere. I think the Guts retails for about $100 less as well?
dbrunski125 12/24/2015 12:03pm
12/24/2015 12:03pm
dbrunski125 wrote:
From everything I've read I would say that the guts phantom foam is about 60% of the weight savings of the thibk technologies seat foam. Although...
From everything I've read I would say that the guts phantom foam is about 60% of the weight savings of the thibk technologies seat foam. Although, I've read guts foam is longer lasting then the think technologies seat foam. I don't know how true this is though.

I went with guys because they were awesome and made me custom foam for my bike.

I saved about 1 lb. The previous owner ran a tall seat foam thay was probably a bit water logged from washing the bike. I would guess you'd save between .5 and .75 lbs with a guts phantom foam.

A lot of the top teams are using guts now. Rch, Yoshimura suzuki pro circuit etc....
blackdiamond wrote:
That info parallels what I had read in a few other posts somewhere. I think the Guts retails for about $100 less as well?
Cost me 300$ but they had to do one off seat for my rm 125.

For new four stroke that they have in stock it's cheaper yea. Loving your build. Amazing. Bike of the month for sure.

I also bought an rcs ti spring to. Seemed like best to spring to go with.
blackdiamond
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blackdiamond 12/24/2015 3:53pm
12/24/2015 3:53pm
Got a text about an hour ago from Varner, he just finished up this fire breather (on Christmas Eve no less) I'm on my way to pick it up. Santa is real boys and girls. I have a bunch of internal pics he took while buttoning it up and I will make some time to post over the next few days.





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Zesiger 112
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Zesiger 112 12/24/2015 3:54pm
12/24/2015 3:54pm
Sweet build, what was done to tha cases to get them black like that?
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aedwards07 12/24/2015 4:00pm
12/24/2015 4:00pm
I'd also like to know the case process. But jeez look at all the porting tools!

Pit Row

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Mr. Robinson 12/24/2015 7:07pm
12/24/2015 7:07pm
Could be acid bath, but I had a set of cases black anodized a few years ago that looked like that.
blackdiamond
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blackdiamond 12/24/2015 7:22pm
12/24/2015 7:22pm
Underground wrote:
Acid bath
I know it looks like some exotic top secret "works" coating (and marketed by many as such) but it just good ol' type 2 grey anno. It is supposed to be grey but it comes out more of a grey/brown and is somewhat inconsistent because of the various alloys in the castings. I think that's why it looks like some type of acid bath or etching process? That's what I thought too when I first saw it.
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KTMShane699 12/24/2015 7:24pm
12/24/2015 7:24pm
Underground wrote:
Acid bath
blackdiamond wrote:
I know it looks like some exotic top secret "works" coating (and marketed by many as such) but it just good ol' type 2 grey anno...
I know it looks like some exotic top secret "works" coating (and marketed by many as such) but it just good ol' type 2 grey anno. It is supposed to be grey but it comes out more of a grey/brown and is somewhat inconsistent because of the various alloys in the castings. I think that's why it looks like some type of acid bath or etching process? That's what I thought too when I first saw it.
Hmm. You speak my language and I may have to do this on my bike.

Thanks for the info.

Shane
blackdiamond
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blackdiamond 12/24/2015 7:32pm
12/24/2015 7:32pm
JBernard_401 wrote:
case studs look nice. SS or Ti?
They are titanium. All the bolts in the engine are titanium except a few odd Phillips head retaining screws, the heat treated crank drive gear bolt (too risky) and the cylinder head studs (they are too flexible and too risky for high compression)

The exception to that are the right side primary clutch cover and main clutch covers. These are aluminum because they are a bit lower stress and the aluminum is a tad bit lighter than the Ti. Cheaper too.
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JBernard_401 12/24/2015 7:37pm
12/24/2015 7:37pm
blackdiamond wrote:
They are titanium. All the bolts in the engine are titanium except a few odd Phillips head retaining screws, the heat treated crank drive gear bolt...
They are titanium. All the bolts in the engine are titanium except a few odd Phillips head retaining screws, the heat treated crank drive gear bolt (too risky) and the cylinder head studs (they are too flexible and too risky for high compression)

The exception to that are the right side primary clutch cover and main clutch covers. These are aluminum because they are a bit lower stress and the aluminum is a tad bit lighter than the Ti. Cheaper too.
nice. did you just go with stock head studs or SS?
I thought about running Ti head and cyl studs on mine and thought the same thing, stretching over time. I know JGR uses ti studs but they supposedly swap them out after a certain amount of hrs.
I ended up custom making a set of head and cylinder studs out of Inconel 718. so no more rust ever. The Ti weight savings would have been nice, but I didnt want to chance something going bad with a high compression 500.
blackdiamond
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blackdiamond 12/24/2015 7:46pm
12/24/2015 7:46pm
Underground wrote:
Acid bath
blackdiamond wrote:
I know it looks like some exotic top secret "works" coating (and marketed by many as such) but it just good ol' type 2 grey anno...
I know it looks like some exotic top secret "works" coating (and marketed by many as such) but it just good ol' type 2 grey anno. It is supposed to be grey but it comes out more of a grey/brown and is somewhat inconsistent because of the various alloys in the castings. I think that's why it looks like some type of acid bath or etching process? That's what I thought too when I first saw it.
KTMShane699 wrote:
Hmm. You speak my language and I may have to do this on my bike.

Thanks for the info.

Shane
Just make sure any covers or anything you send to anodizing are aluminum and not mag because it can react to the acid bath and basically melt from what I am told. The anodizing acid solution will melt steel too. That seems really odd to me but its true. The picture below is of the spot where the serial tag was on the cases, knowing it would melt, I drilled the heads off and removed it. The rivets holding the tag on were longer than I thought and the rest just melted away leaving the small holes. I am going to put a dab of epoxy in there just to be safe and keep the dirt out.



blackdiamond
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blackdiamond 12/24/2015 7:56pm
12/24/2015 7:56pm
blackdiamond wrote:
They are titanium. All the bolts in the engine are titanium except a few odd Phillips head retaining screws, the heat treated crank drive gear bolt...
They are titanium. All the bolts in the engine are titanium except a few odd Phillips head retaining screws, the heat treated crank drive gear bolt (too risky) and the cylinder head studs (they are too flexible and too risky for high compression)

The exception to that are the right side primary clutch cover and main clutch covers. These are aluminum because they are a bit lower stress and the aluminum is a tad bit lighter than the Ti. Cheaper too.
JBernard_401 wrote:
nice. did you just go with stock head studs or SS? I thought about running Ti head and cyl studs on mine and thought the same...
nice. did you just go with stock head studs or SS?
I thought about running Ti head and cyl studs on mine and thought the same thing, stretching over time. I know JGR uses ti studs but they supposedly swap them out after a certain amount of hrs.
I ended up custom making a set of head and cylinder studs out of Inconel 718. so no more rust ever. The Ti weight savings would have been nice, but I didnt want to chance something going bad with a high compression 500.
Stock. The weigh savings is about 5 grams a stud. Not worth the risk. The OEM studs Honda uses are really nice so why change I figure? The are the correct length as well, looks good enough for me.



JBernard_401
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JBernard_401 12/24/2015 8:10pm
12/24/2015 8:10pm
blackdiamond wrote:
Stock. The weigh savings is about 5 grams a stud. Not worth the risk. The OEM studs Honda uses are really nice so why change I...
Stock. The weigh savings is about 5 grams a stud. Not worth the risk. The OEM studs Honda uses are really nice so why change I figure? The are the correct length as well, looks good enough for me.



i agree, only reason i did mine was because they were rusted up and i hate oxidation.

you should throw some stainless 12pt nuts on there, or some K Nuts. spice it up a bit!

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