Fork settings for whoops?

Pssh what does DV know? Go full soft it will feel like a Cadillac through them.

Bro, really bro?

bogdan912 wrote: Pssh what does DV know? Go full soft it will feel like a Cadillac through them.

Ha! What harm did I ever do to u? If anyone has another tip, I don't mind either. I assume ass over rear fender, kind of low rpm and stay on. If I will have the time and don't chicken out I will post a vid of this! Did I put much thought in that last sentence?

1st gear pinned!

Forks...compression...14 clicks out...rebound..10 clicks out

Shock...compression...10 clicks out...rebound..12 clicks out

High speed..the big blue one on top of shock..2 clicks out..

I have set up a ton of crf's..we owned a few...good luck

Find out whatever JGR has on the Bubba bike and then go complete opposite.

If its your first go at them,just go up about 4 clicks on comp and 2 or 3 clicks faster on rebound.

It's to hard to tell you what's going to work without being there with you at the track to watch the suspension. Try roughneck's to start with...that sounds like it's somewhat close. Start tuning from there. Adjust the clickers harder and softer to see which helps or makes it worse.

For a SX style track, you will want to shorten your wheelbase and increase the weight on your front tire to help navigate the tight turns. I will usually move the rear axle in (towads the engine) and also stiffen the shock to decrease the sag.

Don't forget the shock is just as important going through the whoops! Too soft and it's going to pack up and slow you down. Too stiff and it's going to buck you. Too slow of rebound it's going to pack up. Too fast of rebound it's going to buck also.

In all honesty Doc I don't think you need to change anything. I have never seen any amateur indoor whoops that are big enough to merit changing your fork settings.

Just pinch the seat real good with your knees and start slow and work your entry speed up as you get more comfortable.

compression full hard, rebound all the way slow, click 4th in the air on the jump before. click 5th going around the berm, drag your right elbow on the ground and say a prayer. ....

RaceTech Calculation
Go to this link an u can calculate what type of rider u are, Skill, weight, of course bike, model, year, etc etc. And it will give u Kg/mm rate for rear shock and fork springs rates.

I finally decided to try blitzing the whoops at my buddies track the other day. I used to try to double through or just go around, but once I committed to them, they were a ton of fun! Lean back, squeeze the tank with your knees, and upshift before you get to them.

bogdan912 wrote: In all honesty Doc I don't think you need to change anything. I have never seen any amateur indoor whoops that are big enough to merit changing your fork settings.

Just pinch the seat real good with your knees and start slow and work your entry speed up as you get more comfortable.

^^^This.

Work on your technique before you start tweaking on your bike. Keep practicing the whoops faster and faster until you feel like you are over-riding the suspension. At that point, that's when you should go in and start trying to improve your settings.

Marc, what's up my homey?! My one little tip for this is try practicing riding the rear brake a little, to keep the engine from getting away from you. I don't ride indoors, but the whoops at the local sand track are something I hit in 4th gear and shift into 5th. On my 500. You don't want the power falling off and the front end dropping. Keep it right in the meat of the power. Know this is a lot tougher indoors, but I also ride close to the edge of the whoops in case it does go sideways on me. So when I bail, I can hit flat ground instead of the face of a whoop. Played that game once. Never again. Broken tailbone, week off work, a year to get over it where I could comfortably sit in the truck for hours on end like I need to. NOT fun. Be careful. Enjoy.

bogdan912 wrote: In all honesty Doc I don't think you need to change anything. I have never seen any amateur indoor whoops that are big enough to merit changing your fork settings.

Just pinch the seat real good with your knees and start slow and work your entry speed up as you get more comfortable.

x2 on this

keep the front wheel light, On approach get on the balls of your feet and Go up a gear (a gear higher than it feels like you should be in) - keep a constant throttle, keep it in a straight line and cover the clutch! grip the bike with your knees weight right over the back- try to only hit the tops of the whoops. If you get them right you should accelerate through them (hence the need for a higher gear)

if you are going to alter the suspension then slow the rebound right down and stiffen the forks a little, but probably no need to bother unless the whoops are really big

bogdan912 wrote: In all honesty Doc I don't think you need to change anything. I have never seen any amateur indoor whoops that are big enough to merit changing your fork settings.

Just pinch the seat real good with your knees and start slow and work your entry speed up as you get more comfortable.

This right here . Unless you're hitting them hard there's no need to change a thing. Maybe speed your shock down a click, if you need to.

Remember to enter in a high enough gear to keep excellerating through them. Run out of gear and the front wheel drops. Don't look down look way out in front keep the front light. Tony D said at one of his schools if you have confidence in yourself whoop de doos are easy.

bogdan912 wrote: In all honesty Doc I don't think you need to change anything. I have never seen any amateur indoor whoops that are big enough to merit changing your fork settings.

Just pinch the seat real good with your knees and start slow and work your entry speed up as you get more comfortable.

UpTiTe wrote: This right here . Unless you're hitting them hard there's no need to change a thing. Maybe speed your shock down a click, if you need to.

The reason to go through your clickers is to make sure they are right. I have set up alot of bikes and have found that many have been a click or two off..like 10 clicks compression left side..12 clicks right..

The settings I posted above have worked great on every crf250 I have set up..people have loved it..

My son raced the same bike..07 crf250r..I also set up his 05 cr125r the same way..worked great..

Take it for what its worth..ooo and many happy riders...

roughneck wrote: The reason to go through your clickers is to make sure they are right. I have set up alot of bikes and have found that many have been a click or two off..like 10 clicks compression left side..12 clicks right..

The settings I posted above have worked great on every crf250 I have set up..people have loved it..

My son raced the same bike..07 crf250r..I also set up his 05 cr125r the same way..worked great..

Take it for what its worth..ooo and many happy riders...

Roughneck! Tnx for the effotr/settings! Honestly I'm a bit surprised about the figures because your suggesting is actually WAY softer than the standard one for the 2007 (standard compression is 8 clicks out (counter clockwise) from full stop) and rebound is only 9 out? So I didn't dare to set it that way? I will keep this for outdoors riding though since I don't mind softer!

Andy all of the rest of you tnx! I survived! The contour was loose on my helmet, the google strap wasn't tight enough to carry the load while jumping etc, so there's some blurryness that kills some of the vision. And, the video looks way more lame than how it felt in real life. I shit you not people, I was so nervous and felt a close to death experience before entering the "whoops", and felt so dissapointed while looking at the vid. Must be something wrong with how the cam is capturing speed yes?

Well take it for what it is, the vid is cut, the attempts come in order and I felt I "got it" in the end while shifting from first to second gear, squeezing the bike and steady on the throttle.