Posts
2455
Joined
4/1/2008
Location
Valley, AL
US
Edited Date/Time
9/7/2015 12:45pm
Okay guys I know some of you will say it doesn't belong in this thread but it is 100% moto related to me. I got a few questions as I've never owned one. First off I'm going to buy either an 7X18 or 8.5 X 16. I thing the shorter one is easier to maneuver, especially into my tight neighborhood/driveway. But I could see the extra width being an issue at different places as well. Any pro/cons you guys can give me?
Also, when it come to options I'm unsure. I do plan of adding a work bench and maybe even air (Roof or window unit) and some other creature comforts. From doing some searches here I've gathered that I really need a rounded edge roof. It will be primarily dirt bikes in there so what about things they offer like d-rings, e-track and all that shit? Am I cheaper installing it myself. I can do all the work myself so labor costs are not a concern. Is there any "must haves" I should get from the factory? I have a couple thousand extra to spend on extras if need be like extra height, jacks, torsion axles, stabilizers etc. I'm a cheap ass at the core and if the shit is better for me to do myself please advise.
Just any info pre purchase would be great.
Also, when it come to options I'm unsure. I do plan of adding a work bench and maybe even air (Roof or window unit) and some other creature comforts. From doing some searches here I've gathered that I really need a rounded edge roof. It will be primarily dirt bikes in there so what about things they offer like d-rings, e-track and all that shit? Am I cheaper installing it myself. I can do all the work myself so labor costs are not a concern. Is there any "must haves" I should get from the factory? I have a couple thousand extra to spend on extras if need be like extra height, jacks, torsion axles, stabilizers etc. I'm a cheap ass at the core and if the shit is better for me to do myself please advise.
Just any info pre purchase would be great.
Paw Paw
The Shop
Be sure to have factory "wire and brace" for future roof air. Should cost you about $50
If you think a window unit is the way to go...we used to have factory put in a small 20" x 14" lockable panel. Should cost you about $175.
Wiring: I agree...get all the 110 and 12v wiring you might possibly need done from the factory...outlets/wiring will be inside the walls and have a clean look.
8.5 x 16...great size....better choice than the 7' wide in my opinion. Price is usually pretty similar also...not much more for the bigger size.
Stabilizer jacks for the rear should run you about $60. These are probably unnecessary on a tandem axle
Consider upgrading to radial tires....about $200
Extended triple tube tongue...adds a foot of tongue length...great for mounting a tool box or generator $125
Interior finishing...prime and paint the walls....stain the floor. Install D rings/E track yourself.
Raising the roof....only if you are very tall or plan to haul a side x side or a jeep. Standard interior height should be about 75". Roof height has the greatest effect on wind drag/fuel economy.
V nose or flat front? There are advantages to both...just have to decide which you prefer.
Yea I was seriously considering the extra tongue length, like you mentioned for a generator.
One other biggie and I think its the same price. Fold down ramp or double rear doors. I know that requires me to carry a board of single ramp.
I can get an 8.5 X 20 for only like an extra $100 that's 4 extra feet for a bill but my driveway will make it tough.
Can you stand on most roofs of these enclosed trailers or not? That would seem like a cool thing to do, you know when the A class goes out to race. LOL
I just bought an F250 so towing shouldn't be an issue. But for local stuff will my F150 still pull one of these things at 75mph?
Any idea how much these things weigh, dry?
Thanks guys.
Each add'l ft adds about 100lbs...
Each add'l ft should cost you about $115 retail
Construction guys like the double doors so they can open them then back up closer to their work site.
99% of the trailers I sold for personal use had the ramp.
We never had any problems with our "flat roofs"
Like any RV roof...you need to seal it every couple of years.
Most mfgs do offer a "one piece aluminum" roof for pretty decent price.
Most mfgs do offer a "walk on" roof option.....pretty expensive though...I think around $2,000...depends on the trailer length. No way, no how can walk on a standard enclosed trailer roof.
turn on your PM's or send me one, and I will send you my number. I have some experience with building these from about every angle with tips on what you can do yourself for not a pile of cash and where to get the parts for power, lighting, sound system, racks, choks...
Figuring out how to do it and finding the parts is the hardest part of the whole thing.. No, I am not trying to sell anything....
As far as the floor attachment points, I'd install them yourself, it's hard to know how everything is gonna lay out until you have the trailer in your hands with your crap in there.
A tall roof is nice to have, especially if yourself or anyone in your posse are 6' or taller.
We had one once that didn't have functioning door handles from the inside, they just latched/locked from the outside, I'd never make that mistake again.
I prefer the fold out doors in the back myself, makes it easier to back closer to pit areas, as well as set up an ez-up right at the edge of the trailer. It's not like they are difficult to load since they sit so low and in my experience, unless they have a good coating or something for traction, ramps get SLICK when they are wet.
I've had a 7x16 tandem and it was cool.. But towing, especially in the wind could be shitty.. Pretty wasteful fuel wise.
I thought and thought about the best tie down system.. This is what I came up with.. Perfect for getting up to 5 bikes inside and cleans up to a cargo trailer in one minute flat
OK, off the soap box.
At least you are going with a trailer large enough to support all your mods. You will need at least a 3000 watt generator to power your AC. I went small, 6 x 12 and realized when I got home I wished I had gone 7 x 14. You will definitely use up all the space you buy. We used to laugh at my buddy with 1 bike in an 18' but along came a Rhino and kids quads.
A V-nose uses up space on your tongue, so you trade off inside for outside space.
The trailers aren't that heavy empty, not enough to worry about.
Going that big also look at the trailers with torsion axles. More $$ but way smoother ride for the stuff inside.
The roofs are not made to walk on. They are really flimsy.
Pit Row
I have spent a fair amount of time setting it up for my needs. I painted the floor with herculiner truck bed liner that I bought at Lowes. That stuff is great. I wired the trailer for 120 V and added LED shop light strips on the cornices. Other modifications include a dividing wall and door for the V-nose (closet space now), bolted in a 42 inch Kirkland tool chest, and installed steel component shelving from Menards among other things.
The only complaint I have is the flimsy RV style side door. I will rebuild it and make it more substantial. I am happy with the 7 x 14 for our needs.
I 2nd the towing at 65 mph thing. No need to get in a hurry when hitched up. I haul a 15,000 Lb. fiver all over the country and after a few hard brake checks due to dummies I am happy to cruise at 65 everywhere.
But we shall see. I do appreciate everyone's input and I'm okay with some mild lecturing. Hell you guys aren't shit compared to my wife!! lol
Spend the extra money and get the added height if you plan on possibly sleeping in it.
The added width is going to make it feel heavier than it actually is.
Don't cheap out. Buy a good name brand. Just like everything. You get what you pay for.
What I do is measure from hitch to ground then hook the trailer and measure.
Then start adding load and measure to see what I'm putting on the tounge.
You can get 4 or 6 of your fat buddies to stand on the tail gate and measure hitch height and add their weight to get and idea of what kind of weight you are putting on the tounge by comparing the 2.
Trailer brakes are real handy and easy to add,especially if you find a crashed one at a salvage yard,they are a plenty.
I always used the removable bike shoes that slip in the flat hardware that comes with. That way you aren't tripping overthem.
Post a reply to: Enclosed Trailer Questions