Powder Coating and Annodizing?

Edited Date/Time 5/24/2017 6:01am
What parts on dirt bikes can be annodized, powder coated and painted? Like every single piece.
I know

Powder Coated:
Frame
Bars
Sub Frame
Rims
Hubs
Shock Spring

Annodizing:
Fork uppers and lowers
Shock.

What else can be changed? Such as engine color wise, triple clamp, and other various parts?
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5/15/2017 1:24pm
Basically any part can be powder coated as long as you don't interfere with any internals or tolerances.

I'd stay away from the smaller parts when powder coating and stick to maybe the frame, swing arm rims ect...

As for anodising you can only anodise aluminium/Ti parts from my understanding.

Inner tubes or fork lowers do not send them away to be anodised, your only option there would be either re chroming, TIN or DLC coatings.

Also another option is to ceramic coat yours parts (cerakote) you can coat any material from steel to aluminium to plastic. I've done this process myself and extremely happy with the results

I'm no expert in these fields but hopefully someone else can offer some help to cheers.
5/15/2017 1:28pm
Also with anodising your cast aluminium parts such as your stock hubs, triple clamps, calipers ect.. The Finnish won't be bright like it would if you where to anodise a piece of billet such as aftermarket hubs or triple clamps

If your going to anodise these parts stick to black from what I've seen you usually get a pretty consistent colour
Cheers
Turbojez
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5/16/2017 12:42am
What parts on dirt bikes can be annodized, powder coated and painted? Like every single piece. I know Powder Coated: Frame Bars Sub Frame Rims Hubs...
What parts on dirt bikes can be annodized, powder coated and painted? Like every single piece.
I know

Powder Coated:
Frame
Bars
Sub Frame
Rims
Hubs
Shock Spring

Annodizing:
Fork uppers and lowers
Shock.

What else can be changed? Such as engine color wise, triple clamp, and other various parts?
Rims - anodizing works better than powdercoating and is lighter. Same applies to bars.

Triple clamps can be either anodized or powdercoated.

Anyone have experience with good looking and durable coating to use on 2-stroke pipe???
Slosh 112
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5/18/2017 5:09pm
Don't powder coat handlebars, first tip over you have the bars will rotate because the clamps will grip on the powder and rip it off the aluminium.

I anodised every aluminium part on my bike apart from the Cylinder (Nikasil plating couldn't be sealed off), swingarm and lower fork lugs.





Cast aluminium is more porous than billet so the anodising sort of soaks in more, All my cast parts were done in black and when they came back they looked sort of dark grey but after hitting the bike with a light coat of silicone spray of wd40 they come up nice and black.

The Shop

Turbojez
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5/18/2017 11:36pm Edited Date/Time 5/19/2017 12:52am
Slosh 112 wrote:
Don't powder coat handlebars, first tip over you have the bars will rotate because the clamps will grip on the powder and rip it off the...
Don't powder coat handlebars, first tip over you have the bars will rotate because the clamps will grip on the powder and rip it off the aluminium.

I anodised every aluminium part on my bike apart from the Cylinder (Nikasil plating couldn't be sealed off), swingarm and lower fork lugs.





Cast aluminium is more porous than billet so the anodising sort of soaks in more, All my cast parts were done in black and when they came back they looked sort of dark grey but after hitting the bike with a light coat of silicone spray of wd40 they come up nice and black.
Hey Slosh, those came out sweet! Enjoyed every page of your build btw, congrats on a beautiful bike.
I see you turned your hubs prior to anodising, did you remove/grind down those four "ribs" that were in the hub?
Slosh 112
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5/19/2017 1:31am
Turbojez wrote:
Hey Slosh, those came out sweet! Enjoyed every page of your build btw, congrats on a beautiful bike. I see you turned your hubs prior to...
Hey Slosh, those came out sweet! Enjoyed every page of your build btw, congrats on a beautiful bike.
I see you turned your hubs prior to anodising, did you remove/grind down those four "ribs" that were in the hub?
Cheers mate, the RM isnnt finished yet though, she needs a frame transplant now!!!

I skimmed them down on a lathe, Made a slip fit mandel that fits snug in where the bearing goes that was long enough to gab with the 3 Jaw chuck in a lathe and put a tapered centre in the other side to keep it centred. Used a standard cutting tip and manually followed the contours of each. Took about 2 hours each hub, roughing them out then gradually polishing through the grades of wet and dry sand paper then I blast them with super fine crushed glass to get the cast look back into them so the finish was consistent.
5/22/2017 12:49pm
Turbojez wrote:
Rims - anodizing works better than powdercoating and is lighter. Same applies to bars. Triple clamps can be either anodized or powdercoated. Anyone have experience with...
Rims - anodizing works better than powdercoating and is lighter. Same applies to bars.

Triple clamps can be either anodized or powdercoated.

Anyone have experience with good looking and durable coating to use on 2-stroke pipe???
I've seen a guy cerakote his header.

Same coating used on firearms, lasts a long time. Looks good in black, not sure what other color you'd want?
Yzf916
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5/23/2017 4:57pm
Will clutch covers hold up if powder coated?
langhammx
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5/23/2017 8:51pm
Turbojez wrote:
Hey Slosh, those came out sweet! Enjoyed every page of your build btw, congrats on a beautiful bike. I see you turned your hubs prior to...
Hey Slosh, those came out sweet! Enjoyed every page of your build btw, congrats on a beautiful bike.
I see you turned your hubs prior to anodising, did you remove/grind down those four "ribs" that were in the hub?
Slosh 112 wrote:
Cheers mate, the RM isnnt finished yet though, she needs a frame transplant now!!! I skimmed them down on a lathe, Made a slip fit mandel...
Cheers mate, the RM isnnt finished yet though, she needs a frame transplant now!!!

I skimmed them down on a lathe, Made a slip fit mandel that fits snug in where the bearing goes that was long enough to gab with the 3 Jaw chuck in a lathe and put a tapered centre in the other side to keep it centred. Used a standard cutting tip and manually followed the contours of each. Took about 2 hours each hub, roughing them out then gradually polishing through the grades of wet and dry sand paper then I blast them with super fine crushed glass to get the cast look back into them so the finish was consistent.
What year frame do you need ?
Turbojez
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5/24/2017 6:01am
I've seen a guy cerakote his header. Same coating used on firearms, lasts a long time. Looks good in black, not sure what other color you'd...
I've seen a guy cerakote his header.

Same coating used on firearms, lasts a long time. Looks good in black, not sure what other color you'd want?
I'm torn between sanblasting, scotchbriting, then torching the welds and spraying in high temp clear coat for this trick look, or simply sending the pipe to nickel plating for a shiny look.
Cerakoating such a big part will probably cost an arm and a leg but I'll ask around. Thanks for the suggestion!
Skerby
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5/24/2017 10:01am
I've seen a guy cerakote his header. Same coating used on firearms, lasts a long time. Looks good in black, not sure what other color you'd...
I've seen a guy cerakote his header.

Same coating used on firearms, lasts a long time. Looks good in black, not sure what other color you'd want?
Turbojez wrote:
I'm torn between sanblasting, scotchbriting, then torching the welds and spraying in high temp clear coat for this trick look, or simply sending the pipe to...
I'm torn between sanblasting, scotchbriting, then torching the welds and spraying in high temp clear coat for this trick look, or simply sending the pipe to nickel plating for a shiny look.
Cerakoating such a big part will probably cost an arm and a leg but I'll ask around. Thanks for the suggestion!


This stuff actually works really good, I've used a stove bright blue on a YZ pipe and it actually turned out pretty good. The finish is not shiny, but it holds up to heat well and it protects against rust.

I only ever used this stuff to freshen up stock pipes, they sell a black with a little flake in it that looks better than the stock black imo.
5/24/2017 10:41am
I've seen a guy cerakote his header. Same coating used on firearms, lasts a long time. Looks good in black, not sure what other color you'd...
I've seen a guy cerakote his header.

Same coating used on firearms, lasts a long time. Looks good in black, not sure what other color you'd want?
Turbojez wrote:
I'm torn between sanblasting, scotchbriting, then torching the welds and spraying in high temp clear coat for this trick look, or simply sending the pipe to...
I'm torn between sanblasting, scotchbriting, then torching the welds and spraying in high temp clear coat for this trick look, or simply sending the pipe to nickel plating for a shiny look.
Cerakoating such a big part will probably cost an arm and a leg but I'll ask around. Thanks for the suggestion!
It would cost a good amount I would assume, but it would probably never come off, wouldn't rust, and can take a beating.

Cerakoted frame would be badass Woohoo

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