KX 125 2000 resto

Are you putting the 2000 splitfire pro circuit graphics on it that go with that seat? I'd be interested in buying that seat cover from you if not.

Good luck with the build. Nothing wrong with taking it slow.

Nice mate keep us posted, a lot of odd things on this which is looking like some fun repairs.

To bleed brakes you can grab a two foot length of fuel hose and put a loop in it to stop air bubbles from being sucked back into the system after you crack the bleeder. Also motion pro and tusk make a bleeder tool that has a check valve in it so air bubbles don't get sucked back in. Some people grab a syringe and back bleed from the bleeder port up to the master cyclinder but I've had trouble in the past finding a syringe that will fit the fuel line that I use. After bleeding the brakes I zip ty the levers closed for a few hours to allow any trapped air left to get out of the system. This process has worked well for me. As far as process goes, put an 8mm wrench on the. Bleeder nut followed by the fuel line hose, keep the nut closed and pour some new fluid in the mc, pump the brakes and then crack the bleeder. Let some fluid out but don't let it get too low (below the fill line) or it will pull air. Close the bleed nut and then add more fluid. Do this until clean fluid comes out of the fuel line and there is no more air bubbles. That's what I do. Someone may have some better advice but works for me!

I just looped a zip to around the bars to hold mine down.

After coming to terms with the fact that my set up above looked a little goofy I decided to remedy it. If we had cross bars we could just loop the tab on there without any problem.

I ended up drilling a second hole to run the zip tie through and it allows me to pull the tab down tighter.

liking the thread so far i plan to try and buy a similar condition of bike in the summer for around the same price for a project im in northern ireland

Thats cool, my yz was similar. I got a good deal and it really only needed minimal work. I'm going to have to do a Kx 125 eventually. There were way too many cool looking kx's throughout the years.

i dont know how someone could just leave a bike such as an rm250 rotting in there back garden id eat shit for such a bike !

if you can get it cheap it should be a good winter project

A lot of people cut off that part of the front number plate that wraps around the crossbar pad. I cut mine off with scissors along the natural line of the plate which is what I believe most of the teams did in the past.

Sometimes you have to bleed the brakes quite a bit to get the firmness back in my experience. Even if you don't have any air bubbles coming out while bleeding, just keep doing it if you haven't gotten the firmness back.

The loop around the bar pad can serve a purpose. I've had a brake line move behind the number board and get hooked over the top yoke. The bike had a guide, the same as Cycra supply, fitted to the OEM board. Replacing it with original parts fixed it, although it's something to be mindful of when fitting one of those stadium plates.

That's a good point about the front brake line possibly getting hooked.

I picked up a 99 in much the same condition, missing a cylinder though. Been trying to find nice bits for it, only found a Ohlins rear shock so far. Where did you find the VHM head from, can't seem to find one anywhere.

Getting clean, when I picked it up for $400 AUD it looked like it had been ridden for weeks in red mud then just put away in the shed. The bottom end seems good and there's a PC pipe and shorty with it. The shock I found on a trading website (Gumtree) from a guy on the east coast of Aus who was wrecking a 99 125, I missed out on the cylinder but couldn't pass up on the shock for $200 AUD.

I'm thinking of going all white with the plastics then some Redbull/Kawasaki/Pro Circuit graphics I saw from a race bike once.

Maybe the brake line is stuffed?

Wind a bolt in behind it from the other side and you should be able to gently tease it out. Did this for someone that did exactly the same thing. If that fails a left hand drill bit and a slow speed setting on the drill.

I'm dealing with a similar situation with a stripped bolt head on my front brake disk. I was going to try to find a reverse threaded self tapping bolt to screw in and then when I continue to crank on it it should break loose eventually. You could try that. Bike looks good! I would get some frame guards to protect that paint.

If it's a through hole try as I suggested above. If it's the head that has rounded just hammer a smaller socket on and use a windy gun. What you're thinking of exists, stud extractors, although there are other options before resorting to those.