2002 CR125 Build *Complete*

yjgfikl
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3/28/2017 4:16pm
Got the rear fender, number plate and swingarm graphics on. Note to self: don't install graphics when tired and cranky. I did a TERRIBLE job cutting the rear fender graphic for the little air slots on the Cycra Powerflow so I won't show the bike from the top Smile

After much deliberation I decided to use the old black number plate because I felt like the graphics backgrounds look better on the black plate over the white.

Of course I put new bolts and collars/washers wherever applicable. I think it looks really nice!


At this point I'm pretty much stuck waiting for more parts to come in (before I tear into the motor). I'll try to figure out what else I can get to.
wsc96
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3/28/2017 4:33pm
Looking good! Cool
yjgfikl
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3/28/2017 6:43pm
wsc96 wrote:
Looking good! Cool
Thanks! Where's your build thread at? I see you hinting at rebuilding all over these forums.
yjgfikl
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3/29/2017 8:06pm
Again since I'm avoiding the motor work till the rest of the bike is done, I started working on repacking the silencer. Got a good deal on eBay on a Turbine Core 2 in fair condition, with some pitting around the outer case. Since I'm in California I need a spark arrestor for most of my local places.


You can see the sticker was melted/melting. It was like that on the other side too.
The packing that was in there wasn't as bad as I expected, but of course I replaced it anyway. Stuff is so cheap and I was already in there. I'm betting the packing on my old PC 304 silencer is just liquid.


Fresh packing material, cleaned core, updated rivets, slightly buffed the silencer outer case:


All sealed up and ready to go!


I just bought some replacement stickers for it so those will be put on soon.

The Shop

wsc96
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3/29/2017 8:17pm
yjgfikl wrote:
Thanks! Where's your build thread at? I see you hinting at rebuilding all over these forums.
Yeah, I probably should put one together. Slowly gathering together parts and looking to start serious work on mine around mid August so I might do something then.

I've had the 250 for a couple of years now and picked up 125 not long ago.

Keep your updates coming mate, it is looking good. I'm running a PC 304 on my 250 and will run the same or the R-304 on my 125 once i've ridden it and decided on what I want to do with the power delivery.
Lightning78
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3/30/2017 6:42pm
Calles wrote:
You are a brave sob to swing a leg over that thing, i would never even think of going to a track with it much less...
You are a brave sob to swing a leg over that thing, i would never even think of going to a track with it much less jump it
yjgfikl wrote:
We definitely took it to the track. I had it designated as my 'buddy bike' until it got nice enough not to be. Here's one of...
We definitely took it to the track. I had it designated as my 'buddy bike' until it got nice enough not to be. Here's one of my favorite photos, shot this of my friend falling off the top of a berm. He bent my ASV front brake lever doing this!

Hey as a matter of fact i have that exact asv front brake lever brand new and want to sell it.... interested?

I live in huntington beach and. Also have a brand new gold excel rear rim for the cr125 as well
yjgfikl
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3/30/2017 9:06pm Edited Date/Time 3/30/2017 9:08pm
@wsc96
Looking forward to it when you do! Come to think of it I don't think the bent PC silencer that was on there is a 304. I remember seeing some engraved writing but forgot the model, but it had a spark arrestor so probably not the 304.

@Lightning78
I'm legitimately interested! I bent the brake lever back and its not too bad now, but I'd definitely like a new clutch lever. I don't have much of a need for the gold rim.
yjgfikl
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3/30/2017 9:13pm Edited Date/Time 3/30/2017 9:21pm
So I've got some bad news, I was supposed to get my painted parts back on Tuesday this week, but they called me saying they're delayed. Not sure when I'm getting them at this point.

Check out the pitting on the stock 125 fork, and the color difference to the Showa. Definitely prefer the gold-ish ano look. I'll be nice going to a twin chamber.


I was trying to figure out which fork to use, 250 or 450 Showa.


Figured out my answer pretty quickly, using 2 reference points.



Looks like the 450 (red cap) fork is at least 2005+ when Honda moved the dropouts back by 2mm. The 250 fork I believe is off a 2004 CRF250X. So I decided on the "450" fork, but of course not before moving over my air bleeders.


I'm still trying to ID the fork, anyone have any clues to what it came off? Previous owner told me it was from a Honda 450, didn't know if it was X or R or what year. All I've got is this embossed writing and the fact that it has a red cap.
*UPDATE*: Just dug through my emails and saw that he had it listed as being a CRF450X fork from the mid-2000s, but I still don't know the year.


I put the pipe and silencer on (all finger tight) just to again, mock it all up. I'm really anticipating having the body of the bike complete.

Lightning78
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3/30/2017 11:36pm
yjgfikl wrote:
@wsc96 Looking forward to it when you do! Come to think of it I don't think the bent PC silencer that was on there is a...
@wsc96
Looking forward to it when you do! Come to think of it I don't think the bent PC silencer that was on there is a 304. I remember seeing some engraved writing but forgot the model, but it had a spark arrestor so probably not the 304.

@Lightning78
I'm legitimately interested! I bent the brake lever back and its not too bad now, but I'd definitely like a new clutch lever. I don't have much of a need for the gold rim.
I only have the brake lever no clutch lever unfortunately buuut if you ant the brake lever its for sale
yjgfikl
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3/31/2017 6:17pm Edited Date/Time 3/31/2017 6:21pm
I've got no update for you guys...probably for a few days. Still waiting on parts that are long overdue!

Anyone able to help me ID the fork? I'm also thinking about porting my cylinder and re-sleeving it, but need to do more research. Recommendations?

Also trying to figure out what to do with the insulator/carb boot (from the carb to the head). I was hearing the one from the 2000 YZ125 is a good one to use. Any results/recommendations on that?

Also.....don't freak out once I build the bike. The plan is to build it, ride it for a bit to figure out the suspension, then send the fork/shock out for valving.
wsc96
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3/31/2017 8:21pm
yjgfikl wrote:
@wsc96 Looking forward to it when you do! Come to think of it I don't think the bent PC silencer that was on there is a...
@wsc96
Looking forward to it when you do! Come to think of it I don't think the bent PC silencer that was on there is a 304. I remember seeing some engraved writing but forgot the model, but it had a spark arrestor so probably not the 304.

@Lightning78
I'm legitimately interested! I bent the brake lever back and its not too bad now, but I'd definitely like a new clutch lever. I don't have much of a need for the gold rim.
No need for the spark arrester here where I ride. My 250 came with the original silencer, the 304 and this one



I've not tried the above or the original. I'll end up selling this one I reckon.
3/31/2017 10:19pm
yjgfikl wrote:
I've got no update for you guys...probably for a few days. Still waiting on parts that are long overdue! Anyone able to help me ID the...
I've got no update for you guys...probably for a few days. Still waiting on parts that are long overdue!

Anyone able to help me ID the fork? I'm also thinking about porting my cylinder and re-sleeving it, but need to do more research. Recommendations?

Also trying to figure out what to do with the insulator/carb boot (from the carb to the head). I was hearing the one from the 2000 YZ125 is a good one to use. Any results/recommendations on that?

Also.....don't freak out once I build the bike. The plan is to build it, ride it for a bit to figure out the suspension, then send the fork/shock out for valving.
Get it replated by millennium technologies. They do great work, and it makes it practically new
harescrambled
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4/1/2017 2:56pm Edited Date/Time 4/1/2017 2:59pm
yjgfikl wrote:
I've got no update for you guys...probably for a few days. Still waiting on parts that are long overdue! Anyone able to help me ID the...
I've got no update for you guys...probably for a few days. Still waiting on parts that are long overdue!

Anyone able to help me ID the fork? I'm also thinking about porting my cylinder and re-sleeving it, but need to do more research. Recommendations?

Also trying to figure out what to do with the insulator/carb boot (from the carb to the head). I was hearing the one from the 2000 YZ125 is a good one to use. Any results/recommendations on that?

Also.....don't freak out once I build the bike. The plan is to build it, ride it for a bit to figure out the suspension, then send the fork/shock out for valving.
Get it replated by millennium technologies. They do great work, and it makes it practically new
X2....by the time you buy a sleeve and get it pressed in, you'll spend the same money as you would getting Millenium Tech to replate the cylinder. (Purchase price of sleeve + labor to install sleeve and port match it usually runs around $200-$250 depending on who does the work). Also, a plated cylinder transfers heat better than a sleeved cylinder....replate jobs run cooler than sleeved cylinders
yjgfikl
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4/1/2017 7:41pm Edited Date/Time 4/2/2017 10:53am
@wsc96, bingo that's the one that was on my 125 starting out, not the 304. It just didn't have a sticker and it was all bent up.

@Brent_Apodaca and @harescrambled
Millenium is/was definitely my top choice and I've already been in touch with them. The thing is, I don't know enough to know if my cylinder even needs to be replated or just needs a good hone. I was thinking of getting the porting done by Eric Gorr but it seems they won't be taking any work until May. Thanks for the suggestions guys.
yjgfikl
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4/7/2017 6:44pm
Big update today....

I got my painted parts in! I'm mostly happy with them. Little bit of overspray and some minor imperfections but I cleaned them up.


Black texture closeup:


Little bit of bling here and there:


Holes and ugly slots I made to fit the new fender.


I cut the front fender graphic to fit the new fender. Turns out the graphic isn't symmetrical from the start so it looks even more off now, but good enough not to bug me.


I put the new stickers on the silencer:


And finally, the latest mockup!
ledger
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4/7/2017 8:44pm
You have to remove the front fender decal, it's driving me crazy ! just mess'n with ya bud, bike is starting to look mean ! A+ on the forks also.
yjgfikl
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4/7/2017 10:52pm
ledger wrote:
You have to remove the front fender decal, it's driving me crazy ! just mess'n with ya bud, bike is starting to look mean ! A+...
You have to remove the front fender decal, it's driving me crazy ! just mess'n with ya bud, bike is starting to look mean ! A+ on the forks also.
Ha! Trust me the thought crossed my mind. Crazy that it was off center on the original graphic. I'm in talks with N style to make a new front fender and number plate graphic. I'll probably just stick with the number plate only.

Almost time to get into the motor though, once I do the front brake basically.
billyslad
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4/8/2017 11:41pm
Can you get the graphic cut oversize and then trim back
yjgfikl
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4/9/2017 12:18am
billyslad wrote:
Can you get the graphic cut oversize and then trim back
I'm not quite sure what you mean. The graphic kit's current number plate graphics are for the 02-03 and 04-07 number plates, neither of which really fit the 13-16 plate very well, even with cutting. They're both undersized in different dimensions.
yjgfikl
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4/9/2017 12:24am
Started cleaning up the shock, before/after. Planning to get it revalved after a couple rides.



The blue spring looks great!


Closeup of the cockpit view at the moment.


Close up of the spring. Ugly yellow is gone forever.


Full bike as of now, with the Showa graphics installed on the fork.
4/9/2017 3:05am
Sorry to interrupt this build, but do you think that this cr125 2003 is worth 1500$ (1856$ shipped)? I think its expensive when I see how cheap people are getting them on here.. They usually go for about 2000-2300$ here in Norway for some reason.. It is ready to ride though, and has a pretty new FMF exhaust on it. I just need someones opinion Smile

Hope you can see the pictures, I tried to put all of them in one picture so they dont take up the whole thread lol.

yjgfikl
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4/9/2017 6:43pm
rippinruts wrote:
Sorry to interrupt this build, but do you think that this cr125 2003 is worth 1500$ (1856$ shipped)? I think its expensive when I see how...
Sorry to interrupt this build, but do you think that this cr125 2003 is worth 1500$ (1856$ shipped)? I think its expensive when I see how cheap people are getting them on here.. They usually go for about 2000-2300$ here in Norway for some reason.. It is ready to ride though, and has a pretty new FMF exhaust on it. I just need someones opinion Smile

Hope you can see the pictures, I tried to put all of them in one picture so they dont take up the whole thread lol.

$1500 is pretty much the going rate here in California for a CR125 that's in reasonable condition. I think people here get cheap bikes (myself included) that need A LOT of work, and in the end they cost more than a running bike would've been.

It's hard to say if this one is worth it because you can't be there in person to look it over. But if everything is actually in good shape then it should be ok - the pictures look good. Just consider what it would cost to make it look or feel however you want (if you do), and factor that into the cost. Crazy that you're shipping it out to Norway
yjgfikl
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4/9/2017 7:15pm Edited Date/Time 4/9/2017 8:11pm
Finally got my front brake line in and got to work cleaning the caliper, changing out parts/seals, etc. Much happier with the cleaner brake clamp setup from the 04+ models.


Also officially mounted the front number plate with bolts/spacers.Currently working with N style to get the graphic made.

yjgfikl
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4/11/2017 8:32pm Edited Date/Time 4/11/2017 8:34pm
Finished up the rest of the controls (fully cleaned & replaced anything necessary). I'd love to get fresh levers but I'm already way over budget.


Bike is officially done outside of the motor.


Motor time! Check out the blow by on the piston.



Took the clutch out too. It had minimal grooving on the hub and basket and I just couldn't understand why it was SO grabby that it was hard to use. It was in relatively good condition. Turns out I can rotate the idler gear independently from the basket several degrees...so the rubber dampers are toast.




So I'll need to get a new basket and dampers...or try and use the existing basket and tap the holes from removing the rivets. Should be a pain. Also noticed there's just casually a lose washer chilling on the water pump shaft. Why is it there?!? Gaskets are really poorly made/installed, no wonder the case was leaking oil.


Found a hole in the case I'll need to get welded. I'm guessing the previous owner didn't run a case saver at some point and the chain chewed up the case. Another note...don't try to take off the drive gear with the engine out of the bike. Total pain.


I'm a little stuck at this point because my combo clutch basket holder tool doesn't have the right size pins for the flywheel. So I've ordered another tool so I can continue.
4/12/2017 12:44am
Hell yeah! Looking forward to seeing it a 100% (with the engine) Smile Are you going completely stock with the engine?
yjgfikl
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4/12/2017 7:56pm
rippinruts wrote:
Hell yeah! Looking forward to seeing it a 100% (with the engine) Smile Are you going completely stock with the engine?
Dude you and me both. The engine is going to be mostly stock, but I'm rebuilding it entirely. The only real mods performance-wise are potentially porting, head work, intake (PWK Air Striker), and exhaust. I'm too slow to need a faster bike anyway haha.
yjgfikl
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4/12/2017 9:27pm
My flywheel holder came in and barely made the job easier. But I got it off.


Here's what I'm dealing with, dirt in the stator and basically everything.


This is the washer I was talking about in my last post...wtf is it doing there?


Got the right side case off and got the important stuff out. Prepped to split the cases tomorrow.


Here's what I did to track where the bolts go (terribly drawn):
wasummer46
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Raleigh, NC US
4/13/2017 7:20am
Few quick questions. Will any crf450 2016 rear brake guard and disk guard work?
I was unable to locate the part numbers you provided from RM MX

Also you said the 04 front brake caliber is better option.
Where did you purchase the brake caliper and will it bolt direct onto the 02?

Keep up the good work, I am currently half way through my 02 rebuild as well.
Just too lazy to continue with the picture documentation that you have. but much appreciate so continue please!



yjgfikl
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4/13/2017 5:48pm
wasummer46 wrote:
Few quick questions. Will any crf450 2016 rear brake guard and disk guard work? I was unable to locate the part numbers you provided from RM...
Few quick questions. Will any crf450 2016 rear brake guard and disk guard work?
I was unable to locate the part numbers you provided from RM MX

Also you said the 04 front brake caliber is better option.
Where did you purchase the brake caliper and will it bolt direct onto the 02?

Keep up the good work, I am currently half way through my 02 rebuild as well.
Just too lazy to continue with the picture documentation that you have. but much appreciate so continue please!



Nice man! You should definitely post a before/after if you're not documenting the process the whole way through. I'd imagine any guards from the 2016 CRF450R would work. I'm able to see them on RMATVMC's site with no problem, but the way it's set up I can't link them to you on their site.

Here are the parts on motosport.com:
http://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/part-number/43330-KRN-A70ZB?mmysourc…

http://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/part-number/43340-MEN-A20?mmysource=…

The 04 brake caliper won't fit on your bike, because your fork is from 02 and they changed the caliper mounting bracket. But I was actually referring to the brake line clamp that bolts to the fork stanchion guard. They became a nice machined aluminum clamp instead of the ugly stamped steel one. I don't have a picture of mine at the moment.
yjgfikl
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4/13/2017 9:12pm
Started taking the cases apart.


Making sure they're spreading evenly. Took a little convincing on the backside with my mallet.


Successfully apart!


The teeth look ok, but there's some wear on the gears where they mesh with the synchronizing assembly (whatever the technical term is).


Found some nastiness in one of the case pockets:


Getting the crank out from the other side:


I got all the bearings and seals out that I could, but couldn't remove the philips screws on one of the bearing retainers. I don't know how to get out the bearings which I can't access the backside on.


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